[Nealtw]

Your back piers should be higher than the dirt level. So are you intending to block that to full or close to full height under the beam?
After that the foundation can just come up the top of the piers and finish with wood walls leaving the posts in place

 

[Nealtw]

The block wall will basically be 8 to 12 inches above the top of the concrete pier on the side you haven't seen yet.

The back wall will basically come up to the beam but I'm not sure yet if I will be able to line it up fully with the beam.

In every case I will be regrading the exterior (up or down) to capture and redirect the surface rainwater.

This picture shows the corner in question. The block wall will be from the corner to the mid post on the right, and from the corner to the next two posts to the right. The original picture detail post is located at the inside corner of this picture and will need regrading under the deck. The second post is further to the right and under the cottage.

View attachment 686538

~Dave

Will the basement include the room where the power meter is?
Are the beams 6" wide?

 

[Nealtw]

The basement will start as 1/4 of the lower/larger level with the potential to expand to the rest of the lower level. The raised back portion will remain an unfinished crawlspace on piers.

The main beam is a triple 2x12 LVL and is 5.25" wide, and spans the whole 28' length. The raised portion also has 3 beams that each load onto 3 posts.

This is a floor structure drawing:

Sorry I'm doing this from my phone so far so finding proper pictures is a little more work than from the PC. I will be back up with the snowmobile this weekend and can take fresh pictures.

So If the footing is on bed rock you don't have to worry about frost protection?
I have not worked with block but if it was concrete there would a fair amount of 5/8 rebar in it.
We have done this for repairing the top of a foundation.

 

[Nealtw]

Hi Nealtw,
That is correct, everything on the main cottage is pinned to the bedrock and there is no concern with frost heave. The block wall requires vertical 5/8 rebar every 4 feet (basically one at each end and one in the middle of each wall segment), and horizontal ladder bracing every other course, with a bond beam at the top.

My intention is to epoxy rebar into the existing piers to tie the wall piers and walls together

Realistically I think I've already answered my own question, that I need to remove the wood post and carry the load from the beam directly to the concrete. I like the suggestion to form in place up under the beam, but to take it into the land of block, I should be able to fit the block under the beam, slip in the pre-drilled sill plate, add the bolt and then grout in place. If I jack and shim the wood posts by 1/8-1/4" to start, I would be able to lower the cottage back to the final height once the wall was cured, then take out the wood posts and put the last few blocks in place.

For the exterior, I plan to pre-seal all the wall to pier joints, wall to footing joints and footing to bedrock joints and cover them with WP200 strips since many will be in akward corners. Then I will prime the rest of the wall and cover entirely in WP200. On top of that would be maybe 2" EPS or XPS, and a dimple style drainage board keeping the insulation dry. I'll try to get a screened drainage board if I can, but will resort to a standard in-facing dimple board if necessary.

I thought about fiber drainage insulation like exterior Rockroll, but we have so many mice and burrowing chipmonks that I just don't think it is worth it.

For the two interior walls, I plan to still put down a footing for the level surface and build more traditional 2x6 stud walls.

Also a bit stuck on the flooring. Once I build the block walls, and even before i build them really, access will be difficult. I want to put insulation under the floor, but I haven't figured out yet if I can just form the whole floor and do one big pour instead of pouring footings, and then pooring the floor after a couple courses and the perimeter drain is in place.

I would start the bottom of all the wall two a three coarses and then do the floor.
If you water proofing everything from the outside, you can just leave the posts and you could still pin to them just use galvanized rod instead of rebar for the posts.
Or if you do most of the walls first the and wait cure time you could just remove post as the wall will support the cabin.
I think you are going in the right direction anyway.
You shouldn't need a footing for the wood wall, that could be non load bearing.

 

[Nealtw]

The footing is only to provide a level surface to work from since the bedrock curves down in every direction.

Can you elaborate on the use of a galvanized rod over rebar to pin to the columns?

The more I look at it, the more I think I need to just build the other two sides of the room in block as well and be done with it; with the other projects in the queue, it may be 10+ years until we do more down there, and wood prices will probably be high again this summer.

The treatment in the post will eat rebar so anything to do with the posts need to be galvanized.
So you could drill right thru and put a nut on the outside and with a 3 ft threaded rod and tie that to the rebar 6" away from the post.

Do you think block is cheaper than lumber.
Won't matter if the floor is on bedrock but if not make the floor thicker under the wall for the weight of the block.

 

[Nealtw]

It look like a lot of work.