Central Air Capacitor

JamesGeiger · Jul 21, 2019

Of course my central air broke in this heatwave. I have a 1996 Bryant central air 2 ton unit. I have a goodman gas furnace as well (not sure if that is relevant). The central air turns on and the fan spins outside, but it does NOT blow cool air and the lights in the whole house flicker when I turn it on. Only warm air blows out. I had a tech come out late last summer for routine maintenance and he checked the refrigerant levels and said it was good so I doubt it is that.

My guess after talking with a friend who is really handy is that it is the capacitor. He said I should try to replace that since the part is so cheap and see if it fixes the flickering and cooling.

I believe this part here: https://www.amazon.com/TradePro-Cap...p/B07SK7KY4W/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=30/5+capacitor&qid=1563737520&s=gateway&sr=8-3 will fit my current one? See attached pic for current one.

user_12345a · Jul 21, 2019

You have to see if the compressor is running. do you hear a buzz every time the light dims?

The windings and wiring to the compressor need to be checked before trying a capacitor.

do you have a multi-meter?

CodeMatters · Jul 21, 2019

Is the end of the cap bulging or otherwise visibly damaged?

MikefromLI · Jul 22, 2019

Maybe someone here can walk you through how to test it was a multimeter.

JamesGeiger · Jul 29, 2019

hey guys sorry have been busy. i replaced the capacitor and added a hard start kit, but the compressor still sounds like it isn't running....although it sounds like it is trying to come on. is there anything else i can do?

At the end of the video you can hear it trying to start (I think): https://imgur.com/a/Oe5eg7n

user_12345a · Jul 29, 2019

You'll have to ohm out the compressor windings to rule out a electrical failure.

Rule out electrical failure:

Disconnect the wires going to the compressor and identify which is for start (labelled s on compressor), run (r) and common (c) using the schematic.

Check the resistance between r and s.

Then check between r and c, then s and c. The sum should equal the resistance measured between r and s wires.

If anything's open, check the wire connections on the compressor, one may have burned off.

If the connections are okay and r and s reading is open, the compressor's shot.

If you get between r and s have a reading but the other tests show open, likely thermal overload is open.

Mechanical failure:

If it looks good electrically yet doesn't start with a good capacitor and hard start kit, the compressor has failed mechanically.

Mechanical or electrical failure, either way, it's not worth putting a new compressor into a '96 unit.

JamesGeiger · Jul 29, 2019

ok i will do that tomorrow after work. thank you

user_12345a · Jul 29, 2019

It sounds very stuck in the video - likely mechanical failure. normally when they can't turn over due to bad cap (or restarting after running without waiting long enough) they just hum.

JamesGeiger · Jul 29, 2019

yeah i would bet its dead lol, but i cant afford a new unit at the moment. otherwise i'll just get another big ol' window unit for the back of my house

user_12345a · Jul 29, 2019

try ohming it out - basic multi-meters are pretty cheap. they're essential to troubleshoot anything like this.

i've seen very cheap window units on kijiji/craigslist, starting as low as $50 can. probably even lower in the us.

Central Air Capacitor

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