Gonna put up 20'x40' concrete pier supported, one story, gable roof cabin. Want strength but not overkill on the beams, gonna laminate. 5piers per 40' span, 3per the 20' span with a support beam at 12' on the 40' to support a loft and bedroom wall as well as a central 40' 3rd laminated beam, pier supported as well. Is 2'x10'x3pcs laminated, overkill? I'm in a part of Alaska that isn't Often "smashed" by the snowfall but obviously we get some. Thnx.
cabin foundation
merton thomas
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Gonna put up 20'x40' concrete pier supported, one story, gable roof cabin. Want strength but not overkill on the beams, gonna laminate. 5piers per 40' span, 3per the 20' span with a support beam at 12' on the 40' to support a loft and bedroom wall as well as a central 40' 3rd laminated beam, pier supported as well. Is 2'x10'x3pcs laminated, overkill? I'm in a part of Alaska that isn't Often "smashed" by the snowfall but obviously we get some. Thnx.
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Piers and footings need to be described better. Just having them doesn't make it to where they won't sink. Number of piers sounds good, as does the central beam. Assuming you are talking about your beam at the central point being tripled 2x10, yes that is fine for your span.
Remember the codes are MINIMAL and what you want is better.
Remember the codes are MINIMAL and what you want is better.
I've put one story addition on piers once and it was town inspection passed. In NJ and snow load is 30 (I think the unit is pounds per square foot-psf). Alaska snow has to be at least double, I think. Double 2x10 beam and 18" round footings every 8' (I had 24"x12 deep footings in the plan and the inspector said 18" were enough). I used 12" sonotubes. No rods in the concrete, piers about 5" above ground and 6x6 pt posts to the beams. I also put 2 footings in the corner and went to 6' span footings - because it wasn't too much trouble and I was guessing that more footings means less chance of one of them settling. Inspector laughed at that. But diy means you can over-engineer if it gives you peace of mind.
That is my anecdotal experience. Triple beam may be called for because of the snow load. Snow load may also call for less spans for footings as well. Footing size also changes depending on the soil condition. There are also roof rafter spans with different numbers for snow.
That is my anecdotal experience. Triple beam may be called for because of the snow load. Snow load may also call for less spans for footings as well. Footing size also changes depending on the soil condition. There are also roof rafter spans with different numbers for snow.
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Looks like a 2'x2' 3' crete pad with 12"dia sonotube or home made block crete filled piers. I don't like the idea of wood for deterioration concerns over time. No codes here to speak of except when it's bank money or sold to someone interested in the "minor" details.
Hi Neal,
In some areas of Alaska the houses are built on top of permafrost, that is why I asked where the line is. When energy codes were first being assembled Alaska had their own software AKWARM and while reviewing it I ran into the requirement of NOT heating basements. Memory is fuzzy as it was some time ago and their software was eventually rewritten, but found it interesting.
Bud
In some areas of Alaska the houses are built on top of permafrost, that is why I asked where the line is. When energy codes were first being assembled Alaska had their own software AKWARM and while reviewing it I ran into the requirement of NOT heating basements. Memory is fuzzy as it was some time ago and their software was eventually rewritten, but found it interesting.
Bud
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It is always better if the research that and come back and explain it to us.:biggrin2:
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