I'm looking for recommendations for a concrete bonding additive that can be used to bond new mortar to old mortar in a tuckpointing project. The use of a bonding agent is recommended here:
heightslibrary.org/materials/hrrc/12-Masonry/TUCKPOINTING.pdf
To quote:
Next, take an old screwdriver or smaller chisel and scrape out the loose mortar. If the remaining mortar still seems to be crumbling, you can stabilize it by applying a solution of one part concrete bonding additive to one part warm water. Brush it on with a “cheapie” paintbrush the night before you start the work.
The building I'm repointing is an old hollow brick building from the early 1900s. I bought some Sika Latex Concrete Bonding Adhesive and Acrylic Fortifier, but I'm not sure if this is the right thing to use.
The mortar I'm repairing is either wearing out, or just wasn't well applied. It's crumbly in places, brittle in others, and in places completely missing.
I've attached pictures of some of the bricks themselves -- I've removed some from a non structural part of the building -- and of an intact area of the old mortar.
heightslibrary.org/materials/hrrc/12-Masonry/TUCKPOINTING.pdf
To quote:
Next, take an old screwdriver or smaller chisel and scrape out the loose mortar. If the remaining mortar still seems to be crumbling, you can stabilize it by applying a solution of one part concrete bonding additive to one part warm water. Brush it on with a “cheapie” paintbrush the night before you start the work.
The building I'm repointing is an old hollow brick building from the early 1900s. I bought some Sika Latex Concrete Bonding Adhesive and Acrylic Fortifier, but I'm not sure if this is the right thing to use.
The mortar I'm repairing is either wearing out, or just wasn't well applied. It's crumbly in places, brittle in others, and in places completely missing.
I've attached pictures of some of the bricks themselves -- I've removed some from a non structural part of the building -- and of an intact area of the old mortar.