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Mike Milam

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
We as a lot of folks have a blind cabinet base. It's a PIA to access stuff put back in the corner. Here's my plan and input would be appreciated. Order Rev-a-shelf pull out units that fully extend X2. Put one in the blind part and set it up on spacers so it will be high enough to clear the tracks on the second shelf that will pull out from the cabinet in the accessible part with a door. This way we can pull the one out to full extension and then pull the second one over the tracks of the first. Make sense?
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Going to see if I can paste photos I copied.

One of this will be back in the blind part of the corner cabinet and will slide left to right.

Another will be in the part of that cabinet that has door access.

You pull the one with door access all the way out and the one in the blind part of the cabinet will slide to the right behind it.

Kind of hard to explain.
Image


641425
 
641461

Like this?:)

The idea works although I'm too cheap to buy expensive drawers like it for limited storage. The visible drawer will need a cross cleat to fasten the slider if on top. Blind drawer on top, limited height. I think it will be half and half draw.:)
 
Yes, but if there's any "stuff" on the first pull-out, it'll block access to the other one (or two, in the video.)

Is that what you meant by "X2?" Maybe you could get a file-cabinet drawer slide that pulls out far enough to make room to reach the back sliders, but it seems to me it would still be inconvenient.

We bought the "lazy Susan" style corner base cabinet after dealing with blind cabinets for years. Recovered a ton of wasted space and access is a breeze. Also planned out the wall cabinets so a proper corner cabinet with a 45-degree door would fit. Another huge amount of space recovered. I'd never do a blind cabinet again.

By the way, I'm a huge fan of the Rev-A-Shelf stuff. Anyone who sees them in our kitchen wants one. One is a narrow cabinet (needed to fit between the sink base and the corner base unit, see above) that's just the right size for boxes of zip-lock bags, aluminum foil and cling wrap. It would also make a nice spice rack, if it were in a wall unit. The other is a wide one with two pull-out shelves which can hold just about anything. So much easier to organize and reach stuff.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
View attachment 641461
Like this?:)

The idea works although I'm too cheap to buy expensive drawers like it for limited storage. The visible drawer will need a cross cleat to fasten the slider if on top. Blind drawer on top, limited height. I think it will be half and half draw.:)
True they are not cheap. The drawer/basket in the blind portion will be set up on blocks that will take away 1 1/2" height. It will be able to cross over the tracks on the one that pulls out fully. I also plan to remove the shelf. It was never very useful given it's only about 10 deep.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Mounting the slides in that right cabinet will be a bear.
Jim, these come preassembled with tracks attached. Just 4 screws in the tracks. Yeah working in there won't be fun. I used to say I could stand on my head for an hour, but not anymore. I'll pre-mark where the blocking will go as well as the location of the shelf mounting locations first, mount the shelf to the blocking, pre-drill the blocking and then set it in place and run the screws in the blocking down into the cabinet floor. Sounds easy enough, LOL.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Yes, but if there's any "stuff" on the first pull-out, it'll block access to the other one (or two, in the video.)

Is that what you meant by "X2?" Maybe you could get a file-cabinet drawer slide that pulls out far enough to make room to reach the back sliders, but it seems to me it would still be inconvenient.

We bought the "lazy Susan" style corner base cabinet after dealing with blind cabinets for years. Recovered a ton of wasted space and access is a breeze. Also planned out the wall cabinets so a proper corner cabinet with a 45-degree door would fit. Another huge amount of space recovered. I'd never do a blind cabinet again.

By the way, I'm a huge fan of the Rev-A-Shelf stuff. Anyone who sees them in our kitchen wants one. One is a narrow cabinet (needed to fit between the sink base and the corner base unit, see above) that's just the right size for boxes of zip-lock bags, aluminum foil and cling wrap. It would also make a nice spice rack, if it were in a wall unit. The other is a wide one with two pull-out shelves which can hold just about anything. So much easier to organize and reach stuff.
I just meant two shelf units when I said "X2" sorry.

Yeah I have them in both pantry cabinets and never regretted it. I've probably sold a half dozen of them for Rev-A-Shelf over the years when a guest sees them. Sure makes life easier.

When I get this done I will post some pictures and my satisfaction or lack there of.

PS I saw a fellow on youtube who's blind cabinet shared a wall with the basement stairwell and he cut through that wall and added a door in the stairwell. Creative, but I can't imagine running halfway down stairs to get the mixer or blender.
 
Yeah, should work. Just have to be careful on the dimensions. Hopefully supplier has complete dimensions available. Offhand, I would say the first (bottom one) would need to have more travel than the upper slide unit.

But I agree with BigJim -- mounting them not going to be fun.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Yeah, should work. Just have to be careful on the dimensions. Hopefully supplier has complete dimensions available. Offhand, I would say the first (bottom one) would need to have more travel than the upper slide unit.

But I agree with BigJim -- mounting them not going to be fun.
Yeah, they list all the dimensions and I opted for full extension on both although I probably wouldn't have had to on the one in the blind corner since it only needs to travel the width of the pull out shelf. But better safe.
 
Jim, these come preassembled with tracks attached. Just 4 screws in the tracks. Yeah working in there won't be fun. I used to say I could stand on my head for an hour, but not anymore. I'll pre-mark where the blocking will go as well as the location of the shelf mounting locations first, mount the shelf to the blocking, pre-drill the blocking and then set it in place and run the screws in the blocking down into the cabinet floor. Sounds easy enough, LOL.
I don't know if that pullout has a back ledge or side ledge but if they don't, you will really be glad to installed some. I made two pullouts and didn't put a back or side ledger, I will at some point take them back out and make some ledgers for them. It never fails, when we pull one of them out, something falls behind and we have to get something to get it out before we can close the pull out.

Just had a thought, are the slides mounted on wooden runners? If so maybe you could glue them to the floor of the cabinet, let the glue dry and then put screws in. If the runners aren't tall enough to sit on the floor, maybe you could add to them.

Here is where an offset drill/screwdriver would really come in handy.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
I don't know if that pullout has a back ledge or side ledge but if they don't, you will really be glad to installed some. I made two pullouts and didn't put a back or side ledger, I will at some point take them back out and make some ledgers for them. It never fails, when we pull one of them out, something falls behind and we have to get something to get it out before we can close the pull out.

Just had a thought, are the slides mounted on wooden runners? If so maybe you could glue them to the floor of the cabinet, let the glue dry and then put screws in. If the runners aren't tall enough to sit on the floor, maybe you could add to them.

Here is where an offset drill/screwdriver would really come in handy.
Great tip, thanks! My luck would be the lid for the blender or such would fall back there. The wire baskets have a 6 inch side, but I may still add to that.
 
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