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Studly

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have some deck boards that are rotted in the ends, and because the deck boards run the full width of our screen porch and because the other end of them are fine and are underneath screening frames that are a pain to remove, I just want to replace portions of the boards.


What is the best saw and technique for cutting sections off the existing deckboards? I've searched online and I've seen some people recommending an oscillating tool, one person on YouTube loosens the board and props it up higher than the deck and then uses a circular saw to cut it w/o harming the other boards, another recommends using a jig saw, cutting next to the joist and then to add a block onto the joist for nailing the new board into, etc.


Also, what's the minimum length that my patch board should be? To keep the seams from lining up, I was going to make the first one span 2 joists, the second one span three joists, the third board span 4 joists, and then the next one would go back to spanning 2 joists, etc.


But then I read somewhere that somebody recommended spanning a minimum of 3 joists to give it more stability. Is that a good idea?


Thanks for any advice you may have!
 
This are just opinions and I have no sources to support. I would make my minimum size 3 joist wide.


Alternating every second or third run is enough to not look bad and conserve materials. Your method of 3 different lengths is better but uses more materials.


A circular saw will provide the cleanest cut. Use the scab method or buy a crows foot to pull the nails and center it on the joist. Having done this a few times I can say the scab usually results in a cleaner cut. Figuring out a way to utilize a small tri-square will provide a cleaner cut.



The prying up method is effective but can result in cracked or otherwise damaged boards.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
This are just opinions and I have no sources to support. I would make my minimum size 3 joist wide.


Alternating every second or third run is enough to not look bad and conserve materials. Your method of 3 different lengths is better but uses more materials.


A circular saw will provide the cleanest cut. Use the scab method or buy a crows foot to pull the nails and center it on the joist. Having done this a few times I can say the scab usually results in a cleaner cut. Figuring out a way to utilize a small tri-square will provide a cleaner cut.



The prying up method is effective but can result in cracked or otherwise damaged boards.

Thanks for the great info. What is the scab method you mentioned when using the circular saw? I did a search and can't find anything on that.
 
I would use the jig saw to remove much of the board section being replaced and then (jig saw or saber saw) cut between the deck board and joist to cut those nails. Lift the end of the board enough to make your neat cut and replace the rest.

Bud
 
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Thanks for explaining. Didn't know it had a name. :smile:



Do they make deck boards with a ground contact pressure rating?



Maybe but they are not sold around here. HD has 2x4 and other GC rated lumber. Lowes, here does not sell the GC 2x4.



A well secured 2x4 is all you need for nailer scab.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Maybe but they are not sold around here. HD has 2x4 and other GC rated lumber. Lowes, here does not sell the GC 2x4.



A well secured 2x4 is all you need for nailer scab.



Oh, I thought you meant get ground contact rated decking boards but you're talking about the 2x4 to nail onto the joist. Yup, good advice ... thanks.
 
I use a circular saw adjacent to the joist then finish with a jig saw.I think it's faster. I may not do every board, it's screwed I do, nailed No because I try to pry it off.nail

I do use a block for support but I also try to cut part of the remaining board for the additional support for the lip. However, the ideal way is to replace the whole board.
 
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