[chandler48]

Your video didn't stay on the gauge long enough. Normally the pump would cut in about 40 psi and turn off about 60 psi, again, depending on how it was set. Observe the gauge and see what the cut in and cut out pressures are with a faucet running.

TO DO IT RIGHT: Turn the breaker off to the well pump. If you have ball valves going to different parts of the house, shut them down . That will keep water from backing into the tank. Connect a hose to the spigot on the tank and drain the tank. Once it is drained, take a tire pressure gauge and see what the tank pressure is. It should be 2 lbs lower than the cut in pressure, so if the switch is set at 40 psi, you should have 38 lbs of air in the tank. If low, charge it with a compressor a little at a time. Turn the ball valves back on and turn the breaker back on. Note the cut in and cut out pressures on the gauge. They should be in line with what is printed on the label in the cap of the switch.,

 

[chandler48]

OK, I understand the motive, now. No, you won't be increasing the pressure at the shower. Pressure is pressure. You want more volume pushed by the pressure. Most shower heads are low flow by design. You can remove (hopefully) the low flow feature with a pair of needle nose pliers.

My shower is forceful, but wife's is wimpy. I just built her shower so I know it is the head. I removed the low flow cartridge thingy, but still need to drill it out to allow more flow. Are you getting good water from the sinks? If so, it is the shower head.

 

[chandler48]

The tank "holds" the pressure provided by the pump and distributes volume based on pipe size and pressure behind it.

I remove the limiters, too, but newer ones have smaller orifices, even after the limiters. Try swapping the shower heads and see if there is a difference. If you were on municipal supply before, don't expect it on a well.

 

[chandler48]

I believe, bottom line, you are comparing it to municipal water delivery. It is apples and pears.

 

[chandler48]

In your situation, yes, shut down the red handled ball valve to prevent back water from above, then turn off the pump and allow it to drain. I know you don't like that faucet on the line, but it's all you have.

My set up is a little different. I have the switch at the well head, so if I decide to change the filters, I can shut off the water to and from the filters prior to the tank for maintenance. Filtered water only into the tank. The incandescent light bulb is on a Thermo cube to keep it all warm.

 

[chandler48]

Drain the tank of water by opening a tap

Only if that tap is below the tank. If the tank is below the taps, you will be forced to use the haunted faucet. Once the tank is empty, you can unscrew the faucet and replace it or rebuild it.

 

[chandler48]

No, you have to use gravity. So everything above this spigot is out.