I think I would start with a wood that stands up better, cedar, redwood, teak, what is the hardwood they do on expensive decks.

 

As far as retreating cuts in treated lumber, you can use a copper wood preservative which is similar to the pressure treatment solution. It doesn't look to be too expensive (supposedly covers 150 sq. ft. for $26)

Depending on what size pieces you need, you should also consider cedar fence pickets. They seem to be still relatively inexpensive, at least locally here.

 

Why Teak is the Best Material for Outdoor Furniture - Aqua Teak

 

It will probably take more 2x8s than you think... you will have $100 in materials before you know it and at least a couple hours labor.

I would only use cedar for a trellis. And cedar isn't cheap. Hope you have a planer.

 

Thank you for all the replies so far.

It will probably take more 2x8s than you think... you will have $100 in materials before you know it and at least a couple hours labor.

To replicate what I have now, and has deteriorated beyond the point of standing up on its own, will take two 2"x10"x8' planks that are milled into a number of pieces.

The grid of the original lattice is made from 1/2" square stock. I would probably square off one edge of a 2"x10" and cut it into strips that would be 3/4" wide by 2" tall (or whatever the 2" dimension of the lumber really means). Then I would flip those and cut them again into ~3/4"x3/4" strips. That should give me ~22 8' long strips from one 2"x10"x8' allowing for material lost from the thickness of the blade. That would be allot more than I need for the lattice. The other 2"x10"x8' would be milled into 2" wide strips for the frames. It might be a bit tight for two boards so I might have to reduce those dimensions a bit. That would come to $32 for the lumber if I use ground contact pressure treated.

I would only use cedar for a trellis. And cedar isn't cheap. Hope you have a planer.

I think cedar would be far too expensive. There are some other rot resistant woods like Cypress and Black Locust but I don't know if those would be any cheaper. They are always cutting down Black Locust trees around here and I keep thinking I should try to get some of the wood.

You can get 1x4, 1x6, 1x8, etc pressure treated boards.

I think that this is only for non-ground contact pressure treated which is only advertised as water resistant for a couple of years.

How about PVC lumber? Aint cheap, wont rot.

I don't think that white would be a good look. You can paint pvc ok but it would surely have to be re-painted and that would really not be possible once that plants have grown.

Unless you have an outdoor workspace or really good ventilation system, it sounds like an awful lot of toxic sawdust that you can't even green bin or put in the compost pile.

I would set up outside for this and my shop vac does a good job of collecting the output from the table saw.

I think it makes the most sense to just use SYP, either in small stock that I can buy or larger stock I can mill. I think that would cost less and be less of a nuisance to work with than the ground contact pressure treated. SYP will be much easier to glue and should take the copper naphthenate very well with decent penetration. I can apply several coats and let them dry to build up the amount of copper that has penetrated the wood. If I let that dry and then give it a good coat of water proofing I would guess that would be better than the cheaply made stuff I can buy for not so cheap a price.

It will be quite a bit of work but that's on my time not anyone else's.

Does anyone think this is a particularly bad idea?

LMHmedchem

 

Unless you have an outdoor workspace or really good ventilation system, it sounds like an awful lot of toxic sawdust that you can't even green bin or put in the compost pile.

 

You can get 1x4, 1x6, 1x8, etc pressure treated boards.

 

How about PVC lumber?
Aint cheap, wont rot.

My 2 cents...Don.

 

Good quality pressure treated wood is treated all the way through, so cut edges don’t matter. The problem with milling it is that it creates large quantities of toxic sawdust and often the milled pieces twist and warp badly. A better choice is one of the species that Nealtw listed.

 

If your math makes sense for you. "Milling" is easy enough with your skills. I made some slats too with just tablesaw and a sander. Belt sander upside is even better with 120 paper. Edges can be eased also. Also agree that 2x, treatment is throughout. Copper treatment i used was brown at first but grayed the same as raw furring strips i used to make fences. Cut them on a driveway or such so you can sweep away most of the dust. Wear a good mask. Use a leaf blower to clean up yourself, face and hair.
Funny story. After dusting myself, I change into new clothes and really shake off the residual dust on my work clothes. So changing into shorts, went outside to shake the clothes. A neighbor thought i was in my underwear.