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Securing foam board to bsmt walls

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7.7K views 15 replies 7 participants last post by  BIG Johnson  
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#1 ·
Hello all im looking to install 2inch foambard on bsmt walls so i can start to finish it. I was going to secure the board to the cement wall with 3inch ramset nails is that good or would it go straight through the foam board?

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#11 ·
charles3526 said:
Im doing a whole bsmt i think that would be way over to do that on every sheet. Also how would u hold to up against the wall while it dries.
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They stick pretty good by themselve if you use enough. There's always a few that don't want to cooperate in that case just lean something up against it as mentioned.

Get the big tubes for the big gun and not the caulking sized 10 oz tubes like I posted in the picture.
 
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#4 ·
How do you plan to cover the foam board?
Foundation walls are rarely smooth so some bumps and chunks may create small spaces behind the foam. One recommendation for the adhesive is to use horizontal lines to reduce the air circulation. I used a grinder to knock off most of the bumps created from the concrete forms and then used a construction adhesive in the larger tubes (they cost less per mile). Check the adhesive to be sure it is compatible with foam.

If the foam board you plan on using has a foil face then using strapping would provide an air gap to maintain the benefits of the radiant barrier. And the straps would work for fastening the foam.

If you will be covering this with drywall you need to decide on how that will be fastened.

Bud
 
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#5 ·
Thank you

I was going to install metal framing after i secure foam board to walls.
Furring strips would be good to put in between the foam and the wall? My walls are pretty smooth. I was just looking for something strong to hold them on.

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#6 ·
I was suggesting the furring strips be used to fasten the foam to the wall by shooting the fasteners through the strips and then the foam.

Since you will want your framed wall as close as possible to the foam board (no gap) you could plan on the framing location and install the straps inbetween where the metal studs will go, leaving the strapping short at top and bottom. The insulation would then easily press around the strapping. I would still recommend a perimeter of adhesive around the foam board to eliminate any miscellaneous air sneaking in behind. Air will carry a lot of moisture with it and a cool wall will condense that moisture.

If you are going to install insulation in that framed wall you might be able to use less rigid foam board and still reach the code required level. There are guidelines for the minimum rigid needed when adding inside insulation.

Bud
 
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#7 ·
Thinking out loud, would double sided carpet tape hold the foam up while the glue dried. never tried it, but I will test it. I have used some of that tape and it is pretty aggressive. Secret might be getting the concrete surface clean and smooth enough.

Just a thought.

Bud
 
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#12 ·
Do you have the foam board? If not you can get the stuff that has. 3/4" rabbet on the sides that is built to accommodate one bye three flush with the board face. Attaching something TO the board face creates an air gap...which around here gets tagged by the LED inspectors. Ron
 
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#15 ·
Hello all thanks all for ur comments and wise information i went to hd today to order my foam board and was advised to pick up pl300 to stick this to the walls of the foundation.ramset would be over kill. Once again thanks for ur infoamtion. Im picking up 27 1 1/2 board s on sat how many tubes u think i would need right now i picked up a box of 12 im thinking mayne total of 4 or 5 boxes/cases. I want to see how far i get with the first dozen. Im gonna do all my cutting and fitting before i lay the glue down.

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