Just cut the tail piece shorter.
You need a reguler trap so it can be taken apart to clean it out.
What in the world is that pipe with a cap on it suppost to be for?
Lowes and Home Depot sell a special cutter just for this job. There so thin that often they crack. It works better then a reguler pipe cutter or a hack saw.

 

(The tee and cap at the bottom are a cleanout.)

 

It's useless get rid of it. The trap when removed becomes your clean out access.

 

I believe the maximum trap seal depth for a trap is 4" If you can build one within this dimension and get grade on the trap arm- go for it. Yes its nice to have unions, but not required.

 

I inspected the drain more closely and it looks as if a regular P-trap will work. I'll use the idea of cutting the sink tailpiece shorter so the trap is higher up. Thanks.

 

ace that short piece into the straight to the wall thenuse a street elbow(if they have a PVC street) elbow into elbow going out after the trap

 

I store dog food and toys under my kitchen sink and my p-trap gets banged around quite a bit.

Since I could not find a sturdy p-trap (all were thin translucent plastic types) so I ended up making one myself using PVC.

The entire assembly up to the stub (arrow) can be removed for cleaning, if necessary.

 

That actually looks like it worked out pretty well, but it's still only as sturdy as the slip joint connection you have to the tailpiece IMHO.


I've had customers ask for something similar to that before, and I just wonder : wouldn't it be a little easier to just be careful?

:huh:

 

Yes, slip joint is the weakest point, but everything before that is far more sturdy than the kits I checked out.

Being careful sounds perfect, except I have energetic 5 and 3 year olds, all fighting each other to grab the food container to feed the dog!

I swear, my dog sees this and runs away, even if she is hungry