I'm trying to get wire (14 gauge speaker wire and phone wire) around a corner of my framing without having to go up into the attic. Is it possible to get around a corner like this? Even if I could get two drill holes to line up, I can't fit a drill in the wall cavity. I'm attaching a picture of the studs and a diagram (each box is a 2x4) because the picture isn't exactly clear. Thanks!
SoxFan44
Any way to get wire through this corner?
I'm trying to get wire (14 gauge speaker wire and phone wire) around a corner of my framing without having to go up into the attic. Is it possible to get around a corner like this? Even if I could get two drill holes to line up, I can't fit a drill in the wall cavity. I'm attaching a picture of the studs and a diagram (each box is a 2x4) because the picture isn't exactly clear. Thanks!
Attachments
![IMG_0470[1].jpg](/d3/attachments/73/73099-2156731cc0bde1194cde7e106ea44372.jpg)
Then it is easy.
Just cut a deep notch out of the outside corner... about 3" to 4" from top to bottom... then drill a hole in one direction near the top of the notch... and a hole in the other direction near the bottom of the notch, and you're ready to pull all the wire from one direction to the corner... then pull it from the corner to wherever you need it.
The top drawing does not show the holes drilled at enough of an angle, but you can see how it would be done by tilting the drill more.
Just cut a deep notch out of the outside corner... about 3" to 4" from top to bottom... then drill a hole in one direction near the top of the notch... and a hole in the other direction near the bottom of the notch, and you're ready to pull all the wire from one direction to the corner... then pull it from the corner to wherever you need it.
The top drawing does not show the holes drilled at enough of an angle, but you can see how it would be done by tilting the drill more.
Attachments
Drill from both sides until you hit each hole.
Take 2 single wires and form hooks in them.
Insert each wire into each hole and twist until you catch the other wire.
Pull one wire through and use it as a pull wire for the cable.
Use small push and pull strokes until the cable comes out the other side.
Take 2 single wires and form hooks in them.
Insert each wire into each hole and twist until you catch the other wire.
Pull one wire through and use it as a pull wire for the cable.
Use small push and pull strokes until the cable comes out the other side.
I don't.....get..... :huh:
Isn't there plywood and siding on the outside of the house?
It'd be cheaper to buy an angle attachment than remove all that, if there is... IMO.
Isn't there plywood and siding on the outside of the house?
It'd be cheaper to buy an angle attachment than remove all that, if there is... IMO.
He says he showed us a photograph of the outer corner. (from the outside, it has to be assumed) That's why my first question was if he could easily get to the outside..... (I couldn't tell from the photo.)... We kind of know that anyone can get to the covered outside corner of their house. 
But I will admit that I can't tell anything at all from that photograph... I'm just going by what he said, that this was the outside framing like he drew it.
But I will admit that I can't tell anything at all from that photograph... I'm just going by what he said, that this was the outside framing like he drew it.
This confusion (the photo could be of ANYTHING) is one of the main reasons I post so many drawings. Even if I have the object sitting right in front of me, and a camera at my fingertips, I will usually take the time and effort to do a drawing rather than just click a picture.
If you will notice, I shorten the length of "studs" in a drawing so that you can see the ends, and tell the orientation and relative sizes of pieces.
Most DIY people either cram a camera up so close, all you can see is a distorted blur of brown, or hold it so far away that all you can tell is that there is a wall somewhere in the photo. And, worse, they use that danged cheap glass hole on the back of their cell phone that someone sold them as being a true camera.
There's a good reason plans are DRAWINGS, and not photographs.
If you will notice, I shorten the length of "studs" in a drawing so that you can see the ends, and tell the orientation and relative sizes of pieces.
Most DIY people either cram a camera up so close, all you can see is a distorted blur of brown, or hold it so far away that all you can tell is that there is a wall somewhere in the photo. And, worse, they use that danged cheap glass hole on the back of their cell phone that someone sold them as being a true camera.
There's a good reason plans are DRAWINGS, and not photographs.
You really do want to weigh the option of running through the attic. While it's not fun (heat, insulation, etc) it will likely be quicker and easier.
That said, Short spade bits do exist. As do right-angle drills (or adapter attachments). That and since spade bits are relatively cheap you could always just cut the shank down on one (but keeping a good bite on it gets trickier).
I've got a DeWalt cordless right-angle drill that I had to use in a few situations where space between the studs wasn't wide enough.
Also note that extensions can be had for hex-shaft drill bits. I had to use two of them in order to get through some studs next to, and under a window. Using a long ship auger bit wouldn't have worked as the angle wouldn't have been shallow enough to make it work.
Just avoid taking too much material out of that wood. Given that it's in a corner and it's stacked like that there's likely to be a fair bit of load on it. Of course that also means there's likely going to be nails along the length.
There are also short ship auger bits too. I used a couple of Irwin's nail eater bits to deal with that.
If you do decide to drill, do not just eyeball it. Measure to the drilling point on both sides and maintain level when drilling.
That said, Short spade bits do exist. As do right-angle drills (or adapter attachments). That and since spade bits are relatively cheap you could always just cut the shank down on one (but keeping a good bite on it gets trickier).
I've got a DeWalt cordless right-angle drill that I had to use in a few situations where space between the studs wasn't wide enough.
Also note that extensions can be had for hex-shaft drill bits. I had to use two of them in order to get through some studs next to, and under a window. Using a long ship auger bit wouldn't have worked as the angle wouldn't have been shallow enough to make it work.
Just avoid taking too much material out of that wood. Given that it's in a corner and it's stacked like that there's likely to be a fair bit of load on it. Of course that also means there's likely going to be nails along the length.
There are also short ship auger bits too. I used a couple of Irwin's nail eater bits to deal with that.
If you do decide to drill, do not just eyeball it. Measure to the drilling point on both sides and maintain level when drilling.
Me? I would just cut a big enough recess on the inside to accommodate the wires. Say 1/4"X1/4". Then remember not to put a drywall screw through it when closing up the wall.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
