Your thoughts?

Oh, and the rough opening for that door is 78 1/2". Can I cut a door/frame that short? They come, what, 80" tall, and call for a rough opening of 82 1/2"? Or will I have to special order a door?

We've done the same thing you're doing numerous times.
We cut down a solid-core door flush/raised panel - it's easier
to deal with than a hollow-core door.
Consider using Type X, firecode, drywall, at least against the bottom of the stairs.
If you're going to put a light in it - probably should use a fluorescent
fixture.

rossfingal

Good project
my thoughts.....

Redo that cripple stud that was cut to short (unless there was a good reason)

The jack stud on the left of the door opening needs to be altered.
It should be installed sideways to get a full 3-1/2" jamb.
This will come into play when you hang your door.

And double up the studs on each side of the door.
This will come into play when you do your trim.

My thoughts...

Keep the framing under and flush with the stringers where it belongs.

I didn't want to burst his bubble........:no:
He's already got his measurements scribbled on the stringer............:yes:

rossfingal said:

We've done the same thing you're doing numerous times.
We cut down a solid-core door flush/raised panel - it's easier
to deal with than a hollow-core door.
Consider using Type X, firecode, drywall, at least against the bottom of the stairs.
If you're going to put a light in it - probably should use a fluorescent
fixture.

rossfingal

Click to expand...

Will do. Thank you.

tcleve4911 said:

Good project
my thoughts.....

Redo that cripple stud that was cut to short (unless there was a good reason)

The jack stud on the left of the door opening needs to be altered.
It should be installed sideways to get a full 3-1/2" jamb.
This will come into play when you hang your door.

And double up the studs on each side of the door.
This will come into play when you do your trim.

Click to expand...

That cripple stud was just a scrap piece that I figured would suffice. If I nail any higher, I'm worried about going through to the step side. But if you meant just for someting to screw the drywall to, I did notice that and was going to add a little more wood up there. As for the jack stud on the left, I was going to add another one behind it. I just wasn't sure if I should lay it flat against that one (which would make it only 3" deep) or turn it the way it's supposed to be (totalling 5" deep, right?) for the depth. Now I think about it, why not both? The rest of the sides are doubled up.

kwikfishron said:

My thoughts...

Keep the framing under and flush with the stringers where it belongs.

Click to expand...

I can only assume the stringer is the side of the actual steps? Are you saying to keep it under there, or just don't go any higher than what the left jack stud is?

I would remove what framing you have for that wall. Add a 1x4 flat to the bottom edge of the stringer, sistering it, for a drywall spacer above. Plumb the new wall line up and down for 3-1/2" wide- from the spacer out, not 1-1/2" outboard of the stringer, as is now. The router/shimmed stringer (with the 13 risers-36" wide and delivery name label from the manufacturer) should be in front of the new drywall on the stair traveling side, with drywall extending behind the stringer as it is finished and exposed. Any storage space under the stairs needs to have drywall, including ceiling. Cover the foam board for sure.... With the new wall nailed top and bottom, add 1 nail at each full length stud at the spacer. OR, are you making part of the wall just above the stringer? Add a short wall under the stairs to drywall easier, about 4-5 riser up from the floor- about where your smallest piece of foam board breaks.

Gary

Unless you just have to have a 2'-0" door, go to a smaller width size(1'-8" )to see if a full height door will work. Keep the rough opening to the right as much as possible. You can rip down the right side door trim.... it's a basement.
And as mentioned, the framing goes under the stairs.

Tizzer said:

Unless you just have to have a 2'-0" door, go to a smaller width size(1'-8" )to see if a full height door will work. Keep the rough opening to the right as much as possible. You can rip down the right side door trim.... it's a basement.
And as mentioned, the framing goes under the stairs.

Click to expand...

I couldn't go any higher with the door because it would hit the soffit that will butt up against that wall.

Is it really going to hurt anything to keep framing them flat, just to the top of the stringer? Like the next one to the left of the door opening, working my way down. Cus I , uh, already finished, and I like how it's coming out. I just figured since those 2 other 2x4's were already part of the step's, I'd just work with that. I'll have to get a pic up. It all seems pretty strong.

You can leave them proud of the stringers by the 1-1/2", just run the whole wall to the ceiling. Otherwise, if the wall is under the stairs there won't be any side support for the 3/4" thick stringer. Nowhere to attach a guard-rail or drywall wall to for safety of kicking/splitting the stringer or falling over the side/top of it with children or elderly. To have the first 3-4' open above-from the bottom, a short wall with pickets/guard-rail is not an option without it being 3-1/2" outboard the stringer.

I presumed that was a temp handrail as it wouldn't resist a 200# push away from the stairs as the stringer will split first;
Gary

Strikes me that you are making more work for yourself this way.

Frame all the way up to the floor joists (basement ceiling), having a closed stairway. (not on edge though) Either that or have the framing flush with the stringer, drywall the whole thing and add a proper handrail.

As mentioned, I don't see how you're going to have much success hanging your door. Keep in mind the door is meant to fit an opening of a 2x4 with half inch of drywall either side. The proper way to frame this is too have the 2x4's perpendicular to the plate, not on edge. This is not proper.

Even if you double it up, I would think you'll need to add jamb extensions to your door.

May as well do it properly, you are making more work for yourself this way. This is what I am seeing from your pics anyways. For the door, definitely a solid core door will be easier to trim than a hollow core.

Hope it turns out well for you. When you do your framing always try and envison how it will be finished.

chrisBC, good catch. I believe he said he would fill-in another 2x behind it (suggest adding 1/2" spacer). 1-1/2" + 1/2" + 1-1/2" = 3-1/2" As it's an already framed wall..... If you check the bottom plate pictures you'll notice the rest of the framing goes under the stairs and the trimmer is at the outside edge of the plate. The 1-1/2" wall will be flimsy at midpoint, especially at the bottom of stairs end. Difficult for light/outlet install only 1-1/2" deep, though.

Gary

Thanks guys. I do appreciate all the suggestions, and comments.

The stairs are what was there when we bought the house (under a year ago). Including the 2x4's at the middle and end that go to the ceiling. That's what they mounted the handrail, and other boards to. I wanted to keep the steps open, and not closed in.

As for the door. I know it's going to be 1/2" shy as for the depth. I had no intention of finishing inside the room, since it's just for storage, so would it matter if the door jamb is a half inch deeper than the framing? Although I may have to rig something up for the light switch to mount to. Good call on that. It doesn't seem flimsy at all.

R302.7 Under-stair protection. Enclosed accessible space under stairs shall have walls, under-stair surface and any soffits protected on the enclosed side with 1⁄2-inch (12.7 mm) gypsum board. http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_sec002_par018.htm


Gary

Understood. Thanks again.