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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So...I have my ledger hung, footers dug and concrete poured with the J-bolts installed. I'm a little concerned though because I have 4 footers which will support 4 6x6's that I will notch to hold the beam that the joists will rest on. My concern is that during the process of concrete setting and, probably my inaccurate marking, all the J-bolts don't line up perfectly with each other. Since this deck is a little over 22' in width - can I divide the beam into 3 parts? In other words - I'll have 3 sets of beams built up that will each join in the 6x6 notch - each with two carriage bolts to the 6x6. The beam won't be perfectly straight - but it will be level.

Oh - also - since I don't think my footings are perfectly level either...I was thinking of putting a 6x6 in each connector - extending a leveled joist to the post (or using mason's string with a line level) and drawing a line on each side of the 6x6 then cutting - and using that slightly angled cut as the bottom of the 6x6 post to be inserted into the connector - thereby letting that slight angle compensate for whatever the off level angle was of the footer? Is this a good way to do it?
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The "J" bolts are connected to a standoff that has an oversized hole in the base with a large circular plate. These standoffs can be shifted quite a bit to line up less then perfect positions. Within reason of course.
What were your bolts going to be used for?
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The "J" bolts are connected to a standoff that has an oversized hole in the base with a large circular plate. These standoffs can be shifted quite a bit to line up less then perfect positions. Within reason of course.
What were your bolts going to be used for?
Ron
Hi - Yes...that's good news - something I discovered this morning looking at post connectors online - I think that should take care of my alignment issues - I hope. :)

The bolts? I'm assuming you're referring to the carriage bolts I mentioned? I was planning to use those to connect the beam to the notched post. If I can align 3 of the posts - successfully...then I'll only need one splice location on the beam. If I couldn't I was thinking I'd have 2 splices ( places where the beam joins at the notched post).
 

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Carraige bolts are not "J" bolts. And are not interchangeable in use. You use carraige bolts to hold the deck ledger to the house or hold two pieces of wood together as in the splice you mentioned. A "J" bolt is sunk into concrete with the threaded part used to hold a sill plate or a piece of hardware.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Carraige bolts are not "J" bolts. And are not interchangeable in use. You use carraige bolts to hold the deck ledger to the house or hold two pieces of wood together as in the splice you mentioned. A "J" bolt is sunk into concrete with the threaded part used to hold a sill plate or a piece of hardware.
Ron

No - I'm aware of that - and if I wasn't clear enough in my original post - I apologize. The J bolts are in the footings - I was concerned because I noted that they weren't exactly as aligned as I had hoped they would be.

The carriage bolts I referred to - I was describing how I would use them to attach the beam to the posts.
 

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No - I'm aware of that - and if I wasn't clear enough in my original post - I apologize. The J bolts are in the footings - I was concerned because I noted that they weren't exactly as aligned as I had hoped they would be.

The carriage bolts I referred to - I was describing how I would use them to attach the beam to the posts.
That sounds good. Just use hardware that is compatible to the new PT wood.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That sounds good. Just use hardware that is compatible to the new PT wood.
Ron
Ok - should I be looking for something specific? I was just going to pick up the hardware at lowe's. Also - should I be treating the boards now...with either a deck stain or sealant? For instance - should I put sealant on the ledger now - while I can still get to it easily? Any recommendations?
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No you dont have to stain or treat it.... Did you us PT and install flashing on the ledger? If not make sure you do... you will eventually get water problems inside your house.. so make sure thats all sealed up...

All Simpson hardware is "compatable" with PT wood... im not sure what was meant by that statement... i guess he ment dont use non galvanized bolts that will rust and weaken over time...
 

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All Simpson hardware is not equal for treated wood. Because of the new treatment chemicals used, Simpson now has a hot-dipped hanger with way more corrosion resistance on it--- Z- Max.Notice on this page the second line down- Material, Finish- click on z-max and the other to find the great difference of coatings. Hopefully, everyone is using Z-Max, specifically. This applies to nails too.

http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/LUS-HUS.asp Be safe, G
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
No you dont have to stain or treat it.... Did you us PT and install flashing on the ledger? If not make sure you do... you will eventually get water problems inside your house.. so make sure thats all sealed up...

All Simpson hardware is "compatable" with PT wood... im not sure what was meant by that statement... i guess he ment dont use non galvanized bolts that will rust and weaken over time...
Yes...I did use pressure treated woods and I did install the flashing... which I was very proud of...because it was a complete pain in the :censored::censored:!! :) I also siliconed around all the hex bolts that I used to attach ledger to the house rim joist and applied a bead of silicon along the flashing where it meets the siding. My uneven siding cut will be hidden by the silicon and the decking once its installed.

Now I just need it to stop freaking raining!!
 

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Good job... you should be fine, no need to stain the ledger..

i hear you on the rain, im in new jersey and it feels like its been raining for like 4 months... lol, i was suppose to stain my new deck this weekend, but i think that got pushed back...

As far as the simpson hangers and brackets go.. Everything i have seen at the big box stores have all been z max rating.. i thought that was standard... lol..

good luck with everything... post pics.. :)
 

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All Simpson hardware is not equal for treated wood. Because of the new treatment chemicals used, Simpson now has a hot-dipped hanger with way more corrosion resistance on it--- Z- Max.Notice on this page the second line down- Material, Finish- click on z-max and the other to find the great difference of coatings. Hopefully, everyone is using Z-Max, specifically. This applies to nails too.

http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/LUS-HUS.asp Be safe, G
So they will be making both? Or only Z-Max?
I'm going to have to check out HD & see what they are carrying
Thansk for the info :thumbsup:

***OK - according to the part numbers the stuff I have is Z-MAX
 

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Sorry I didn't clarify my statement. Simpson makes a lot of hardware and fasteners. Some is Z-max, some Stainless steel, and some galvanized - not z-max. A lumberyard is my preferred stop. If the box stores don't carry anything but Z-max, good. A lot less mistakes.

I wouldn't spend extra money on Z-max if the hanger went inside for a floor joist and I didn't need the extra shear nailing they have.The yards carry most of these, so you have to know the application. Notice the installed cost---far right. Interesting. Here are most of the hangers they make---- notice the green arrow next to- means z-max.

http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/hangertables/face_ss-df1.asp

Be safe, G
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Looks nice! :thumbsup: Those stairs do need a handrail though.
Ha - Yeah...I figured someone might point that out...I debated it...but because of the 7ft wide steps...and the fact that it's only 26" off the ground...I really didn't think that it was necessary....
 

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Ha - Yeah...I figured someone might point that out...I debated it...but because of the 7ft wide steps...and the fact that it's only 26" off the ground...I really didn't think that it was necessary....
Four or more risers requires a handrail on at least one side of the stairs. IRC R 311.5.6 :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Four or more risers requires a handrail on at least one side of the stairs. IRC R 311.5.6 :yes:
What purpose does that serve..."on at least one side"?

At any rate... I get it - the code says a handrail - I chose not to put one up......the posted speed limit is 55mph...and I've been known to exceed that once in a while... .Everything else about the deck meets or exceeds code I considered a handrail...but didn't think it added anything to the deck , both functionally or aesthetically.
 

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How about monetarily? A visitor comes to your house, falls going down on the steps, critical injury. His family sues you. Your Insurance Company rejects the claim because they were not built to minimum safety code. (Look at your policy). And a nice pubic record of it all right here, a virtual paper trail. A year later, his family owns your house, with the new deck, they install a handrail.

4" maximum gap under your fence and guard-rail assemblies, and at each riser of the stairs- otherwise close them off. (To prevent a toddler or baby from getting it's head stuck there and suffocating or a broken neck). IRC 312.2, IRC 311.5.3.3

What purpose does that serve..."on at least one side"? Wait until you get older, you will look for that handrail........ask your parents!
These are minimum safety codes to keep your family safe, being you are taking that responsibility, not a Contractor.

Be safe, G
 
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