[a1481155]

Hello all, My air handler fan stopped, so I had an A/C contractor come out and he said my out of warranty X13 ECM 3/4HP 230V blower motor is bad and needs to be replaced; quoted me $820 for a Rheem, which I cannot afford.

I’ve watched several videos and the following are my biggest concerns, so far:

1) With breakers off, is there anything that I need to avoid touching so I don’t get zapped? If yes, what?

2) To remove the fan/motor enclosure, which has circuit board attached to it would you a) Disconnect all wires on board and leave board attached or b) Leave wires connected and remove the board?

3) I found my OEM Genteq blower motor located at: https://www.gemaire.com/genteq-51-1...nk-programmable-motor-and-module-51-102497-00, but they only sell to licensed HVAC contractors. Where can a DIYer get one?

I appreciate your feedback!

 

[user_12345a]

So, there is a generic replacement called the evergreen EM. http://www.thedealertoolbox.com/ind...-replacing-finding-the-right-evergreen-motor/

The HP and amperage must be matched - the speeds are a bit different so some tested/adjustment can be required. Needs to be set up for 240v.

maybe - https://www.amazon.com/6207E-Genteq-Evergreen-Furnace-5SME39NXL448/dp/B07J1P157J




You really need to diagnose it yourself with a meter and not take the tech's word of it, as you usually can't return electrical parts.

The circuit board is mounted to a plate - you can unscrew the plate from the blower housing and push it to the side

 

[a1481155]

So, there is a generic replacement called the evergreen EM. http://www.thedealertoolbox.com/ind...-replacing-finding-the-right-evergreen-motor/

The HP and amperage must be matched - the speeds are a bit different so some tested/adjustment can be required. Needs to be set up for 240v.

maybe - https://www.amazon.com/6207E-Genteq-Evergreen-Furnace-5SME39NXL448/dp/B07J1P157J




You really need to diagnose it yourself with a meter and not take the tech's word of it, as you usually can't return electrical parts.

The circuit board is mounted to a plate - you can unscrew the plate from the blower housing and push it to the side

Thanks!

What type of tests/adjustments can be required, and how will I know if needed?

My unit says 230VAC, why and how do I set it up for 240V?

The tech looked like he disconnected 2 wires from blower motor and tested inside the connector at the end of each with his meter, then diagnosed “blower motor has 246V and 26V at terminals still not responding.”

I’m not sure which wires he tested and I’d need some guidance with how to do so myself, but I’m willing and able, if my cheapo HF multi-meter will do the job. 😉

“...unscrew the plate from the blower housing and push it to the side.” 👍

 

[user_12345a]

Some or all of the universal ecm motors are made for 115-120v or 230-240v and you have to wire accordingly.

The speeds may not line up perfectly - have to select speeds.

Seems like it was tested properly - basically if the motor is getting line voltage and low voltage signal yet not turning on, it's bad.

Would need model of outdoor unit and air handler, whether you have electric heat installed in the air handler (and what kw rating) to give more specific advice.

 

[user_12345a]

details on testing x13 motor here, but sounds like it was done: https://yorkcentraltechtalk.wordpress.com/2012/11/04/x-13-motor-troubleshooting/

 

[a1481155]

Thanks!
Are wiring correctly and selected speeds things you can guide me on?

Appreciate the link! I’d like to learn how to use that darn multi-meter and test this and other things.

Outdoor unit model: 14AJM36A01 and air handler model: RHLL-HM3821JA are both Rheem.

Some or all of the universal ecm motors are made for 115-120v or 230-240v and you have to wire accordingly.

The speeds may not line up perfectly - have to select speeds.

Seems like it was tested properly - basically if the motor is getting line voltage and low voltage signal yet not turning on, it's bad.

Would need model of outdoor unit and air handler, whether you have electric heat installed in the air handler (and what kw rating) to give more specific advice.

details on testing x13 motor here, but sounds like it was done: https://yorkcentraltechtalk.wordpress.com/2012/11/04/x-13-motor-troubleshooting/

 

[user_12345a]

So I can't locate the schematic for that air handler - even the install manual doesn't have it and has no detail about motor speeds.

Can you post a clear pic of the schematic? - usually on the inner section of the access panel.

You have 3 ton straight cool with electric heat.

The main priority is getting it up and running, can worry about speeds after...

With a thermometer, can determine airflow of different speed taps by testing in heat mode and set it for 400 cfm per ton. Heat may use a different speed, depends on how fancy the air handler is. I can't tell without the schematic.

The air handler is for up to 3.5 tons of cooling and if your duct system isn't great it may need to be on high speed.

 

[a1481155]

Thanks!
I believe this is schematic for that air handler...

So I can't locate the schematic for that air handler - even the install manual doesn't have it and has no detail about motor speeds.

Can you post a clear pic of the schematic? - usually on the inner section of the access panel.

You have 3 ton straight cool with electric heat.

The main priority is getting it up and running, can worry about speeds after...

With a thermometer, can determine airflow of different speed taps by testing in heat mode and set it for 400 cfm per ton. Heat may use a different speed, depends on how fancy the air handler is. I can't tell without the schematic.

The air handler is for up to 3.5 tons of cooling and if your duct system isn't great it may need to be on high speed.

 

[diyorpay]

Exact component failed for me recently. Never knew it was warranted for 10 years. It was replaced and installed for a tad over $400 including service/diagnostic visit. Also southern FL. Make sure in your case.

 

[diyorpay]

warranty

 

[diyorpay]

parts list

 

[a1481155]

Thanks!
Apparently, since I wasn’t the owner of the house when it was installed in 2010, I’m out of luck, as far as being under warranty, and was quoted $820, for a Rheem replacement blower motor. 😡

Curious who you used, because they also told me it would’ve been $534, if it was under warranty.

Exact component failed for me recently. Never knew it was warranted for 10 years. It was replaced and installed for a tad over $400 including service/diagnostic visit. Also southern FL. Make sure in your case.

warranty

 

[diyorpay]

Total cost $388 under warranty (plus maybe $95)

West Coast/Naples

Brett & Sons 239-300-9186
Sue or Devin in office
John was tech

was not so concerned if I was original owner
they did not do original install in 2012
I was not there, daughter was
super professional

 

[a1481155]

Thanks!
Unfortunately, I’m out of their service area.

I don’t plan on using the contractor who did original install either, but I believe it’s the manufacturer, who’d be more concerned about being the original owner, to approve warranty coverage.

Just to confirm, you were not the original owner of the house who had it installed originally?

Total cost $388 under warranty (plus maybe $95)

West Coast/Naples

Brett & Sons 239-300-9186
Sue or Devin in office
John was tech

was not so concerned if I was original owner
they did not do original install in 2012
I was not there, daughter was
super professional

 

[diyorpay]

I was original owner of entire 2012 install.
But I didn't have to prove it either.

 

[diyorpay]

If you want to take a deep look:

2 pics: Newer version (not one I had years ago for heat) has putty like stuff around problem part (thermistor). Check spelling.

Old one was mine in early 2000's. Part looked about size of quarter.

Burns will often be obvious. This one little part causes complete failure. That's why this component that runs really hot is always being 'upgraded'.

Board alone may be available.

Tiny failed part keeps going up in price but is just a solder replacement.

Here is a primer: see Bob Reynolds input
https://www.diychatroom.com/f17/carrier-58mvp-blower-problem-9939/

 

[user_12345a]

Yes, you can check the thermister and see if it's bad.

If there's nothing obviously wrong which can be fixed, buy a replacement evergreen of the right hp. Verify everything including frame size.

If you want, use your meter to verify low and high voltage is at the motor with a call for cooling.

You can wire it the same way - after, the airflow can be determined by putting it in heating mode and calculating it based on temperature rise and heater kw.

You want around 1200 cfm.

 

[a1481155]

Thanks!
Appreciate the link and pics!

If you want to take a deep look:

2 pics: Newer version (not one I had years ago for heat) has putty like stuff around problem part (thermistor). Check spelling.

Old one was mine in early 2000's. Part looked about size of quarter.

Burns will often be obvious. This one little part causes complete failure. That's why this component that runs really hot is always being 'upgraded'.

Board alone may be available.

Tiny failed part keeps going up in price but is just a solder replacement.

Here is a primer: see Bob Reynolds input
https://www.diychatroom.com/f17/carrier-58mvp-blower-problem-9939/

 

[a1481155]

Thanks!
First, I just want to confirm that this the schematic that you wanted to see. If yes, what did it tell you about motor speeds that were looking for?

Yes, you can check the thermister and see if it's bad.

If there's nothing obviously wrong which can be fixed, buy a replacement evergreen of the right hp. Verify everything including frame size.

If you want, use your meter to verify low and high voltage is at the motor with a call for cooling.

You can wire it the same way - after, the airflow can be determined by putting it in heating mode and calculating it based on temperature rise and heater kw.

You want around 1200 cfm.

 

[user_12345a]

it's the correct diagram - showed me how it's wired and that one speed is used for heating/cooling, another for continuous fan.