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Discussion Starter #1
I can't seem to get a good burn going with my Englander 24-acd Woodstove so I was checking for stovepipe leaks when I found this vent in the back of the stove. There is a drip/creosote/smoke trail pointing down on the outlet. The manual doesn't mention it. What is it for?

Other issues:
1. Cannot shut stove door or fire will die even with wide OPEN air intake and catalyst bypass open... Unless I get it up to 850F flue temp and the shut door.
2. Noticeable smokey smell in the house but smoke alarm and CO sensor held around stove do not alarm.

Thanks!
 

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If this a new stove to you?
Did anyone check out the chimmney before installing it to make sure it's ok?
Ashes blocking the vents?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
joecaption said:
If this a new stove to you?
Did anyone check out the chimmney before installing it to make sure it's ok?
Ashes blocking the vents?
Thanks for responding Joe. This stove was installed in 2000 and I just moved here in 2012. I had a sweep clean the 8x12" clay-lined chimney and stove pipe ... And he said to me, "I installed this stove 10 years ago and I told the guy it was crap, but he made me install it anyway."

Most people online seem happy with the stove in their homes... So I keep thinking its a draft problem. The mystery vent in the back is really puzzling me.
 

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I'm not seeing any vent on the back in that picture. All I see is a heat baffle.
 

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Your pics a fan which is not plugged in. Do you run the fan? If not perhaps you should. Seems to me it would be there to provide assist to combustion or venting. If you do run it then I would suggest a thorough cleaning may be required. There should be some clean out ports which can be removed to provide access for cleaning.
 

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That does not look like a vent to me. It looks like a stiffening rib to keep the back wall of the box from warping. The stain looks like rust from condensation dripping out of the unpainted inside of the rib.
 

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Open a door or window in the room the stove is in and see if this makes the problem go away. Do this long enough though to get the chimney hot to the top outside so it will draft good.

If this helps, you're house is too air tight and the stove's chimney is starving for air to be able to draft up and out.
 

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How far above the roof line does the chimney go? If a guy that has been installing woodstoves for ten years tells you your stove is crap, may want to at least consider the problem is in the wood stove.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
"that is the secondary air for the combustor. your combustor may be plugged up or does not work" is what the Englander guy emailed me today. I guess it's an intake for the catalyst. This might be where I'm getting smoke output.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update:

I used stove cement to seal up all the seams of the stove pipe and holes where the damper rod pokes through... Then let dry for a day.

Works so much better! No more smokey smell and I can keep the door closed and actually close the intake a little! What a difference! Those little holes must have been sucking in a bunch of air and slowing my draft big time.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
2nd update: the last burn was going well at first but then smoke smell again! This stove just can't draw enough air while the door is closed. It also can't keep smoke out of the room while the door is cracked open. I guess I'll just leave it here unused unless I need emergency heat during a power outage.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Bumpr1080 said:
That fan on the side is designed to pull cool air from behind the stove and push the (now heated) air out horizontally from the stove. It works alot like this: http://www.amazon.com/Caframo-Limited-Ecofan-Ultrair-Nickel/dp/B0090K68PC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1360716426&sr=8-1&keywords=eco+fan
Thanks, yep, that's an easy one. I was referring to the small vent that the stove maker said is for 2nd stage combustion process. It spreads the heat around but I can't use the fan if I have the door cracked because it will pull smoke out.
 

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hmm, whats the draw like? without a fire is there always a pull for air up and out the flue? I'm no expert but it should be always strong.....
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Bumpr1080 said:
hmm, whats the draw like? without a fire is there always a pull for air up and out the flue? I'm no expert but it should be always strong.....
How do you think I can determine the strength? I'm sure there's a tool that the pros use. Is there a DIY method like watching the smoke off an incense stick or something? If I toss a little ash it does suck up the flue, but not very impressively. Thanks!
 

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try the ol' college seal up the room and exaust the ::cough:: air. Hold a lit lighter with the door open, see how far you need to get the flame to the flue and how far the flame bends, from what distance etc...

then find a friend with a well working stove and see what his pull is like...

Usually in college when you need to exaust any ::cough:: air, make sure you test it first.....:)
 

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I know this post is older, and so is this model of stove. I wanted to pass on a few things I've learned owning a 24-ACD Englander since 1996 to present.

1. The catalytic combuster clogs, can crack, and needs cleaning every season.
2. Also the combuster has a life span - TOPS 3 years of heavy use
3. You can find the OEM combuster Mfg online and pick one up for about 150.00 US$
4. In the back at the bottom there is an air intake - you can feed from outside I do
5. I also use an inline HVAC fan in the ductwork to the outside air intake.
6. This keeps positive airflow into the stove avoiding die outs and gas explosions
7. I have had my stove "pop" or explode when opening door on a clogged no flame fire
8. The vent you see in the back is a "safety valve" for such a pop.
9. I've had this happen with the door closed..... scary with a good puff of smoke out the back.
10. You really must use wood split and dried properly at LEAST 1 year and kept dry
11. I used to keep 2 years of wood and rotate so my wood was always seasoned
12. So this makes my stove 19 years old, and weighs in at almost 600 pounds
13 I've seen the newer Englanders at Sutherlands and the metal thickness is way thinner
14 Heavier metal holds heat longer
15. Englander will say that's not true. They will also say feeding forced air voids the warranty. Bah. I have no warranty at 19 years. Solved my problems. Also solves air pressure differences between inside outside AND draft problems.
16. At late night when fire is dying down - shut off induct fan and adjust damper for longer heat over night.

I think since yours is vented to a fireplace chimney I believe I read, You do have a draft issue. The chimney need to be sized to the stove, yours is much too large. I use SuperVent [Selkirk] Max 2100 Stainless. Sized right all the way up past ridge of roof. No bends no 90's just straight up through the top collar. Makes a difference. There is a burn plate inside with bolts that do slowly burn off - remove that plate - carefully - it is heavy. I use a 1x2 wedge in on top of lip in back for firebrick to hold plate while I remove. You can then access collar for combuster. Remove comnuster and sleeve and replace from here - www woodstovecombustors com/englander.html I also purchased their digital thermometer and replaced the one mechanical one that came with it. Then you know when to adjust flue and damper - over 550 degrees. Well I hope this helps someone. It is an AWESOME stove I've used every winter for 19 years sometimes 24/7. Take care of it use it properly, clean your flue - which is easy with a straight up setup - remove black pipe - scrub - replace - re-mortar and it will serve you for a life time.
 
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