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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just finished replacing about 2/3 of the wood siding on my home and garage. The house is 110 years old and I just replaced the rotten wood siding with new siding (Pattern 105 wood siding). I spent four weeks caulking the bottom overlaping portion of the siding on the house and garage. Some of the boards had larger gaps due to either crooked siding or just old crooked house so I wanted to protect the house as much as possible. I've now been told that what I did was a bad idea which could cause moisture to get trapped. I really view getting rid of all of the caulk as almost impossible after what I went through. My question is, can I simply make an occasional weep hole in some of the caulk to allow it to breathe? Should I strip the caulk on one or two boards on each side of the house? I did not caulk every board due to some of the siding being protected under a porch and others that were unaccessible due to shrubs. Would either of those options be enough to prevent any problems? Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Austin
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Is this cedar dutch lap you’re talking about?

What caulking did you use?

My siding is pine, but I guess it can be considered dutch lap (correct me if I'm wrong.) I just used all purpose acrylic caulk, I bought the good stuff, the 35-40 year stuff. I went back to edit my original post, but I forgot to mention that I did not caulk every board due to some protected under a porch and some hard to get to locations.
 

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I wouldn’t worry about it.

Is what you did common practice, no. Fact is a couple coats of paint usually seals the lap anyway.

I certainty would not drill any holes and chance penetrating the weather barrier.

That wasn’t the picture I was talking about btw.
 

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That is Dutch lap, German lap or Cove lap siding. The overlap board is nailed above the lap to let the bottom board move (expand and contract) with the seasonal changes. This also permits drying from water wicking and being solar driven to the backside near the house. It should be primed all six sides against water. No caulking at the laps. Each board needs the air space at the lap, continuous. http://www.forestprod.org/woodprotection06tsongas.pdf

You will get paint blisters if painted with a caulked lap joint; http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-028-e

So it’s not a vented (rainscreen) siding? http://www.articlesnatch.com/Article/Benefit-From-Airspace-Behind-Your-Siding/151553

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks for the advice, after closer inspection it looks like the boards have already expanded and contracted enough to cause the caulk to separate in some places. I tried to remove some of it, and it looks like it would be impossible to remove it. Any suggestions on anything that I can do to better the situation?
 

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After it dries I'd try a carbide tipped paint scraper on the caulking, last resort- using a scraper blade with an oscillating power/multi tool. You don't want any of the caulking sealing that joint.......

Gary
 

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I hope the 105 siding has changed from the old days, it was tough to keep paint on back then. It also was bad to warp and twist some if it wasn't nailed tight.
 

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Where to get siding like that

I need to replace some Dutch Lap Siding on our 80-year-old house. The photo looks like what I need. Where did you get it. Also, thanks for the advice on how to install.

Gary
 
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