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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an old 1915 house. I've been working on finishing out the basement to turn it into our TV/Living room. I'm currently trying to decide how to best finish the floor. It appears at some time, it might have had a layer of concrete poured over another layer of concrete, but in the 9years we've lived here we haven't had any issues with that, it's just what I've noticed in an area when I moved a support column and restructured the center beam.

I have had water intrusion through bad mortar joints in a few of the hollow cell concrete blocks that are the foundation, but I'm pretty confident those issues are now behind me through re-pointing blocks, regrading, etc....

I would love to put some sort of wood/engineered wood floor down because I think it'll warm the place up and fit the era of the house better. I had pretty much discounted doing so, because I know wood in basements is frowned upon. I've looked at stained concrete, but floor is so pitted in many areas I'd have to resurface and that's a lot of work. I've talked with someone about tile, thinking more along the lines of wood looking tile, but I can't get sold on that idea either. I'm also thinking of just painting and having a carpet made into a large area rug...it'd have to be cut out around things so just any rug wouldn't have same effect.

Back to the wood, I was watching a show a while back where they were working on a high dollar house and installing wood flooring in the basement, it had been painted and they said the paint was a vapor barrier so no need for anything else and that it would be ok. Thoughts? Honestly, part of my fear of the tile, is this floor has been partially sealed and painted over large areas and if the painted areas get something spilled on them and it sits, the paint peals up. If wood/engineered wood is a possible option, I might put re-paint the entire floor for now to even out the looks while I finish it up, but I'm worried if I go the tile route I'll end up regretting that idea....

I will also say, I have never had any issues of moisture wicking up through the concrete itself and we are actually in a fairly low water table area. In fact the kids used the basement for a few years and during that time I put a carpet remnant down for them to play on and it stayed just fine directly on the concrete.

Thanks for any advice on this...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
they make real tile that looks like wood, my buddy has it in his basement and you would be hard pressed to tell its not wood..looks fantastic..
I believe that is what I'm looking at if IF I go the tile option. Once again my worry is with the paint and it having a 'cold' feel. I realize I can go with area rugs and thus it's a good option, but what about that paint already on the floor? ....what if I add some more concrete/porch paint until I get the funds and time together to do the tile??

A friend that used to install flooring, mainly carpet, but some tile, etc, owes me a favor for helping with his boat and said he'd help lay the tile and that the paint as long as it's down good wouldn't be a problem, is that true?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ask yourself this question. If moisture becomes a problem, no matter what the source, which flooring option would you rather deal with, wood, tile or vinyl.

The obvious answer there is the tile or the paint! Of course, I've dealt with cracked tiles before and that is no fun at all....everything has it's advantages and disadvantages.
 

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I believe that is what I'm looking at if IF I go the tile option. Once again my worry is with the paint and it having a 'cold' feel. I realize I can go with area rugs and thus it's a good option, but what about that paint already on the floor? ....what if I add some more concrete/porch paint until I get the funds and time together to do the tile??

A friend that used to install flooring, mainly carpet, but some tile, etc, owes me a favor for helping with his boat and said he'd help lay the tile and that the paint as long as it's down good wouldn't be a problem, is that true?
you can always throw down a zone of radiant heat under the tile..
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Actually, I never said I tuck pointed and sealed with redgaurd. You must be thinking of different post. I did fix holes in mortar, so there was some 'tuck pointing' done, but it was through the exterior.

To get technical I've basically had about 3 entry points. One was at a stairway, not only did I totally regrade the outside in that area and raise the landing about 4-6", I totally redid the stairs and a few other problem areas in that general location. It had been a low point and thus eroded some mortar joints which I fixed inside and out and that area is more complex than I care to get into, but the problem is fixed. Took lots of concrete work inside and out but I took care of the issue.

The next area is one by a window where I have a small strip of landscaped ground between house and driveway. I've dug down, fixed bad mortar joints and I'm actually getting ready to pour a slab to direct water from this window towards the driveway. The landscaping is also built up and this water flows away. Near the window I couldn't build up grade so I'm doing a slab. It's not an area that gets much water because of roof lines....I mainly had issues when watering the landscape.

The last area was again near a window on back side of house, but also approximately where my sewer line exits the house. That was dug down, holes in mortar fixed, window well installed, grade raised and where the sewer exits the house was totally redone. It was cast iron pipe, now it's sleeved pvc pipe, with fernco style couplers protecting the pvc and the sleeve was sealed tight to the concrete block. Again the grade has been raised and once I get the gutters up all should be golden.
 

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"but I'm pretty confident those issues are now behind me through re-pointing blocks, regrading, etc...."
Apolgize for misreading your post.Just got home today after working in miserable weather trying to finish a job and apperantly it wore me out.
 

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I would not use wood. I see these shows and people putting wood in kitchens and bathrooms and it is idiotic.

If you have any moisture issues then the wood will be ruined. When I first saw tile that looks like wood I did not like it until I saw it installed.

If you have paint then you will need to grind it. I would also use bonding agent in the thinset. Keep extra tiles for a back up. Replace a cracked tile is easier and cheaper then replacing ruined wood.

Some of the new things in vinyl are very nice too.
 
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