[CruiseDivaNJ]

DH used a 36 grit sandpaper (rented a sander for the floor), sanded off all the layers of solid stain -

Big Question: does he now have to use a finer grit sand paper to complete the job before we stain? Or, is it ready to stain? DH feels he needs to rent the sander again with a finer grit, like 60 or 100 before we stain - I dont think he has to.

Opinions?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Ron6519]

DH used a 36 grit sandpaper (rented a sander for the floor), sanded off all the layers of solid stain -

Big Question: does he now have to use a finer grit sand paper to complete the job before we stain? Or, is it ready to stain? DH feels he needs to rent the sander again with a finer grit, like 60 or 100 before we stain - I dont think he has to.

Opinions?

Thanks in advance!

If you stain it now, you'll see why he needs to go down to a finer grit. go to at least 100 grit or you'll see sanding marks on the wood when you stain.
Ron

 

[CruiseDivaNJ]

If you stain it now, you'll see why he needs to go down to a finer grit. go to at least 100 grit or you'll see sanding marks on the wood when you stain.
Ron

Wow, 100 grit? really..OK!

I dont know,..I dont see any sanding marks as it is now..going to go look again.

BTW- we're forced into using a SOLID (gag) STAIN.....does 100 grit still apply?

Thanks so much!

 

[Ron6519]

Wow, 100 grit? really..OK!

I dont know,..I dont see any sanding marks as it is now..going to go look again.

BTW- we're forced into using a SOLID (gag) STAIN.....does 100 grit still apply?

Thanks so much!

Easiest way to check is to wet the wood. Any marks will show up when it's wet.
Why are you forced to use the solid stain?
Ron

 

[CruiseDivaNJ]

Easiest way to check is to wet the wood. Any marks will show up when it's wet.
Why are you forced to use the solid stain?
Ron

Long story, deck was built in 2005 by the previous owner. Not being 100% sure what they used, it looked like (yes, beleive it or not..) a primer and then a solid. So a year after we bought, in '09 it started to peel and show wear. We hired soemone who did a bad job, we guess. (or is it all because of the initial coat? I think we'll never know.) the contractor scraped a little, sanded a little (areas I guess that showed wear), he primed then used BM solid acrlic deck stain. (we purchased the paint) This year it had to be done, but it wasnt in our budget to hire someone to strip the entire (700+ sq ft, plus spindles, hot tub surround and 2 areas of stairs) Both of us being handy (we have renovated and rehabbed, electric, sheetrocked. Our last house we hired and watched and learned more)

Back to the deck. We cant strip the entire deck including spindles, the spa surround and benches, under and behind the hot tub itself and under the entire perimeter (about 1/2"-1" in some places), its impossible and I dont want to spend the entire summer making this a 3 month project. DH already sanded the entire floor and stairs, it looks amazing and it going to be very tough to cover it with a solid. But, logically it works for this year- and I hope to get 2 yrs from it.

Im sure I left some details out. I have tons of pictures I should really post.

Today.....we stain. I know with semi or transparent you backbrush (?), you dont have to with solid, do you?

 

[Ron6519]

If the instructions aren't on the can, try posting the question in the, "Painting " section.
Ron

 

[CruiseDivaNJ]

If the instructions aren't on the can, try posting the question in the, "Painting " section.
Ron

Thanks, ron6519. Project is well underway and coming along nicely...too bad mother nature always throws a glitch in there though, lol

 

[Wiscbldr]

I just got done refinishing and staining our deck this past weekend. If youre using a solid color stain, I think you could have used a 60 or 80 grit sandpaper with a hand held electric sander, then simply put on 2-3 coats of the solid color stain.

It really depends on how smooth you want the deck to look. Some people like to see a little grain in the decking, some want it smooth as glass. I wouldnt have completely sanded everything off, but would have used the hand sander enough to get off all loose prior stain, etc. Any bad boards would have been replaced and use new deck screws as well.

But since youre using a solid color stain it will cover a lot more blemishes and oddities then the clear stain. If you have doubts, try a small inconspicuous area as an experiment and see how it looks after 2-3 coats of the solid stain.

 

[CruiseDivaNJ]

I just got done refinishing and staining our deck this past weekend. If youre using a solid color stain, I think you could have used a 60 or 80 grit sandpaper with a hand held electric sander, then simply put on 2-3 coats of the solid color stain.

It really depends on how smooth you want the deck to look. Some people like to see a little grain in the decking, some want it smooth as glass. I wouldnt have completely sanded everything off, but would have used the hand sander enough to get off all loose prior stain, etc. Any bad boards would have been replaced and use new deck screws as well.

But since youre using a solid color stain it will cover a lot more blemishes and oddities then the clear stain. If you have doubts, try a small inconspicuous area as an experiment and see how it looks after 2-3 coats of the solid stain.

Thanks. Actually, it would have been easier to merely sand the areas that were badly peeling, but it would have been a half-a$$ed job, so we opted to bring the (entire floor area) back to its original bare wood state. We (DH) applied 2 coats of solid stain- its amazing how we can npow see grain. The original owner used primer before their first coat of (grey) solid stain, we were never able to see grain, it just looked sort of painted.

Next we tackle the spindles (200?), hot tub surround and outer. We're gently sanding- there is no peeling. But, this method will not reveal any wood grain..