Hi everyone,
I need help with my ghetto barn insulation project. I know that I should use spray foam and call it a day but I do not have that option. My wife wants me to only use the free insulation that I collected while working on commercial construction sites.
My weapons for this project are 2” blue board, R13 vinyl face fiberglass, cans of spray foam, and commercial grade flexible caulking.
The barn is 40 x 50 (2000 SF). My shop area is 12 x 24 (288 SF). My main goal is humidity control so that I move more tools out of the house and into the barn without them rusting. Hauling tools 200 feet every time I have a project has gotten real old.
So far, I install LP Smartside siding on the exterior of the barn. It is glued to the 1x4’s and nailed to the posts and purlins. The glue also air seals the seams. After 2 years I have not seen any water penetrate the exterior walls. As you can see by the pictures, I have framed the shop area inside the barn because the walls were too out of square to be of any use to me. I have also caulked and foamed all cracks and openings. I think that ceiling, the floor and the walls are air tight. I have enough R13 vinyl face blankets to cover all the exterior walls of the new storage and shop area. I plan to use furring strips to complete attach the fiberglass blankets at the top, bottom, and all walls. I will tape and seal all seams of the vinyl to keep the outside air between the fiberglass and the exterior walls. This will leave a 3” air space between the fiberglass and the outside wall. Since my siding is not metal, I should have to concern myself with condensation. However, will I have a problem with convection currents inside the air space? Will the 3” cavity between the siding and the fiberglass hurt me or help me? Please keep in mind that my interior walls will be OSB that is fully caulked and nailed to the new studs. I will cover every inch of the studs with a bead of permanently flexible caulking before they nailed into place. I am trying to have a dead air cavity behind the OSB. The shop ceiling will have R25 un-faced fiberglass that is caulked and sealed at alls seams on the top, bottom and sides.
Remember, I am trying to use the materials on hand only. If there is a better way given where I am now, please let me know (spray foam is the best, but it is not an option for this project).
Here are the pictures
![]()
Rolls of insulation
![]()
Can foamed and caulked walls, floor, and ceiling
![]()
Sealed siding panel seams. I also have fully caulked 1x4’s on the outside over the seams
![]()
Canned foam filling the gaps along the splash board skirt
![]()
New wall studs
![]()
Canned foam sealing any gaps between the siding and furring strips. This is the top of the wall between the exterior and the new framing. The plywood has a continuous bead of caulking.
![]()
This is a better shot showing the caulking under the plywood cap on top of the wall
![]()
Caulking at all seams where any two materials meet
![]()
Thanks for your time and comments,
James
I need help with my ghetto barn insulation project. I know that I should use spray foam and call it a day but I do not have that option. My wife wants me to only use the free insulation that I collected while working on commercial construction sites.
My weapons for this project are 2” blue board, R13 vinyl face fiberglass, cans of spray foam, and commercial grade flexible caulking.
The barn is 40 x 50 (2000 SF). My shop area is 12 x 24 (288 SF). My main goal is humidity control so that I move more tools out of the house and into the barn without them rusting. Hauling tools 200 feet every time I have a project has gotten real old.
So far, I install LP Smartside siding on the exterior of the barn. It is glued to the 1x4’s and nailed to the posts and purlins. The glue also air seals the seams. After 2 years I have not seen any water penetrate the exterior walls. As you can see by the pictures, I have framed the shop area inside the barn because the walls were too out of square to be of any use to me. I have also caulked and foamed all cracks and openings. I think that ceiling, the floor and the walls are air tight. I have enough R13 vinyl face blankets to cover all the exterior walls of the new storage and shop area. I plan to use furring strips to complete attach the fiberglass blankets at the top, bottom, and all walls. I will tape and seal all seams of the vinyl to keep the outside air between the fiberglass and the exterior walls. This will leave a 3” air space between the fiberglass and the outside wall. Since my siding is not metal, I should have to concern myself with condensation. However, will I have a problem with convection currents inside the air space? Will the 3” cavity between the siding and the fiberglass hurt me or help me? Please keep in mind that my interior walls will be OSB that is fully caulked and nailed to the new studs. I will cover every inch of the studs with a bead of permanently flexible caulking before they nailed into place. I am trying to have a dead air cavity behind the OSB. The shop ceiling will have R25 un-faced fiberglass that is caulked and sealed at alls seams on the top, bottom and sides.
Remember, I am trying to use the materials on hand only. If there is a better way given where I am now, please let me know (spray foam is the best, but it is not an option for this project).
Here are the pictures
Rolls of insulation
Can foamed and caulked walls, floor, and ceiling
Sealed siding panel seams. I also have fully caulked 1x4’s on the outside over the seams
Canned foam filling the gaps along the splash board skirt
New wall studs
Canned foam sealing any gaps between the siding and furring strips. This is the top of the wall between the exterior and the new framing. The plywood has a continuous bead of caulking.
This is a better shot showing the caulking under the plywood cap on top of the wall
Caulking at all seams where any two materials meet
Thanks for your time and comments,
James
