[mzaptk]

Is there anything inherently wrong with wiring 3 recessed cans in this manner? They use the quick connectors, and because the middle can was replacing a fan fixture, the wire was only long enough to reach the middle can.

I wired the other 2 to the middle can as well, since the quick connector has 4 end inputs. It seems to me that they are still wired in series this way, but when I go to turn the light on, the outer two light first, and the center one lights about a half second after the other 2. I'm assuming thats due to the fact that these are led retrofits, and the outer 2 are 10.5 W while the center is 9.5 W. I'm thinking that since the outer 2 use more power, they draw more when the switch is turned on, resulting in the 9.5 W light taking slightly longer to turn on.

 

[hueco]

Wrong terminology: The lights are wired in parallel. I know of no instance (except in Xmas lights) where lights are wired in series. Black to black, white to white and you should be okay.

 

[mzaptk]

Wrong terminology: The lights are wired in parallel. I know of no instance (except in Xmas lights) where lights are wired in series. Black to black, white to white and you should be okay.

Whoops! That makes more sense then if they're in parallel.

Ok so then my next question: is there any way to fix the issue with the outer 2 10.5 W lights turning on a split second before the center 9.5 W one? I'm thinking that in theory, you'd have to put a 1 W load resistor in parallel with the middle light only? I know we do that in automotive, but I'm not sure if that exists in building electrical.

 

[AllanJ]

What if you exchange the bulbs or LED assemblies among the fixtures (assuming compatibility)? The preceding test is just to show a possible sample to sample difference in the bulbs. The fact the power cable goes first to the center fixture does not cause that fixture to take longer to light up. The wires can carry more than enough power to light them all simultaneously.

Double check your wiring to be sure you did not actually (hopefully just accidentally) create a series circuit or subcircuit not counting the switch. A tell tale sign of that (here, an error) would be a white wire from one light connected to a black wire from another light.

Load resistors are never inserted in household wiring. Load resistors may occasionally be found or needed within a device or light fixture but you would never install one unless instructions called for it or you had a good amount of electronics background.

OT: Some brands of can lights have connection boxes that are too small to have the power cable come in and then two other cables continuing off in different directions to additional lights. For those brands, multiple lights are meant to always be connected in a single daisy chain.

 

[Jim Port]

Could just be the difference internally between the fixtures. It is not a wiring issue.

 

[mzaptk]

What if you exchange the bulbs among the fixtures? The preceding test is just to show a possible sample to sample difference in the bulbs. The fact the power cable goes first to the center fixture does not cause that fixture to take longer to light up. The wires can carry more than enough power to light them all simultaneously.

Double check your wiring to be sure you did not actually (hopefully just accidentally) create a series circuit or subcircuit. A tell tale sign of that (here, an error) would be a white wire from one light connected to a black wire from another light.

OT: Some brands of can lights have connection boxes that are too small to have the power cable come in and then two other cables continuing off in different directions to additional lights. For those brands, multiple lights are meant to always be connected in a single daisy chain.

Good idea, I will try the test! I triple checked the wiring before I gave power to the area, so I know all black is to black, and all white is to white, ground to ground etc...and they are all Halo brand, both cans and lights themselves.

The outer 2 area 4" and the center is a 5"/6". The box says that the 4" uses 10.5W and the 5" uses 9.5W...not sure why that is but i can interchange them just to be sure is the lights themselves and not the wiring.

 

[AllanJ]

Oops, I forgot to mention that you should not exchange bulbs (or LED assemblies) of different wattages unless all the electronics that go with them are in the bulb or assembly and with no electronics built into the can framework. Exchange is freely possible with LED units that screw into a fixture socket where an incandescent bulb used to be.

 

[mzaptk]

Oops, I forgot to mention that you should not exchange bulbs (or LED assemblies) of different wattages unless all the electronics that go with them are in the bulb or assembly and with no electronics built into the can framework. Exchange is freely possible with LED units that screw into a fixture socket where an incandescent bulb used to be.

Ya, they're empty remodel cans with wiring only. The led assemblies are retrofit so they're sealed and waterproof. Thanks for making sure, though :thumbsup:

 

[hueco]

As I see it, the delay is probably due to the light and not the cans or wiring. If they are all incandescents, they shouls light together. If LEDs or CFLs, then the bulb circuitry gets involved. The previous suggestion is a good one to determine if the delay is due to bulb circuitry or what....

Voltage is virtually instantaneous so when you flip the switch, the voltage is there to all the cans.

I understood you to say the center can is wired to what had been a fan. Here, I'm grappling with a method of wiring where a "light loop" exists, but I figure a fan probably wasn't wired with such a loop and, anyway, I'm not sure it is relevant to your issue.

 

[mzaptk]

As I see it, the delay is probably due to the light and not the cans or wiring. If they are all incandescents, they shouls light together. If LEDs or CFLs, then the bulb circuitry gets involved. The previous suggestion is a good one to determine if the delay is due to bulb circuitry or what....

Voltage is virtually instantaneous so when you flip the switch, the voltage is there to all the cans.

I understood you to say the center can is wired to what had been a fan. Here, I'm grappling with a method of wiring where a "light loop" exists, but I figure a fan probably wasn't wired with such a loop and, anyway, I'm not sure it is relevant to your issue.

This is what the wiring looks like:

 

[joed]

I would agree the issue is not with the wiring but with the lamps or the fixtures. I have some CFL lamps that do the same thing. Certain brands seem to have a small delay and if you get two different brands in the same string one will come on before the other.

 

[hueco]

nice pic! Hopefully, "light loops" are no longer used. I know I don't use them.

 

[omgdiddy]

Is this wiring up to code? I have a similar situation and want to verify that it's safe to wire the left and right lights off of the center one, rather than daisy chain style.

 

[jbfan]

nice pic! Hopefully, "light loops" are no longer used. I know I don't use them.

Describe "light loop"

 

[jbfan]

Is this wiring up to code? I have a similar situation and want to verify that it's safe to wire the left and right lights off of the center one, rather than daisy chain style.

Electrically, it is the same.

 

[hueco]

Describe "light loop"

In my jargon, a "light loop" is two conductor NMC in which the black wire goes to a switch from the light fixture and the white wire goes from the switch back to the fixture. I prefer wiring the switch into the room wiring, then carrying the NMC to the fixture.

 

[Jim Port]

In my jargon, a "light loop" is two conductor NMC in which the black wire goes to a switch from the light fixture and the white wire goes from the switch back to the fixture. I prefer wiring the switch into the room wiring, then carrying the NMC to the fixture.

200.7 requires the white to be the feed to the switch. Sounds like you are wiring the switch loop incorrectly .