[mikegp]

I was wondering if this looks ok. I pigtailed the ground coming from the panel to the green wire that attaches to the cover of the inlet and then connected the pigtail to the G on the inlet. This leaves the body of inlet still connected to the screw on the cover with the original green wire. I don't want to double lug or put two wires under any screws since I'm pretty sure that's against code. I know there is much debate about unbonding the G and N at the generator. You can discuss that if you want as well, but I'm trying to make sure it is wired correctly first assuming that the G and N are not bonded at the gen.
Here is a pic, sorry it doesn't show the pigtail clearly. The green wire that is clearly seen attaching to the inlet body does not go to the wire nut. It is solid to the cover.

 

[Missouri Bound]

The wire is most likely not needed in your installation, but it's not hurting anything. The receptacle and it's mounting cover is grounded by the bare ground wire through the chassis of the receptacle itself, thereby grounding the cover and the box when attached. It's not hurting anything, it's redundant and the inspector just may like it.

 

[rrolleston]

I was wondering if this looks ok. I pigtailed the ground coming from the panel to the green wire that attaches to the cover of the inlet and then connected the pigtail to the G on the inlet. This leaves the body of inlet still connected to the screw on the cover with the original green wire. I don't want to double lug or put two wires under any screws since I'm pretty sure that's against code. I know there is much debate about unbonding the G and N at the generator. You can discuss that if you want as well, but I'm trying to make sure it is wired correctly first assuming that the G and N are not bonded at the gen.
Here is a pic, sorry it doesn't show the pigtail clearly. The green wire that is clearly seen attaching to the inlet body does not go to the wire nut. It is solid to the cover.

I would have used stainless steel screws with silicone between the siding and the box to prevent water getting behind the siding would also use silicone around the wire between the box and the siding. Duct seal would also work in place of silicone. If you silicone or duct seal the edge of the box it's a good idea to leave the bottom open in case moisture gets in there it has a place to get out.

 

[mikegp]

Thanks for the advice. I did silicone the side of the house and the entrance to the box. You can see some in the pic around the clamp. The screws are temporary, at least I plan to swap them out, but you know how that goes.

 

[mikegp]

Also, I wasn't worried enough about moisture in the box to actually seal it up. Outdoor AC wiring isn't sealed up much, so isn't this the same idea?

 

[rrolleston]

Would not be worried about moisture in the box just getting in where you put holes in the siding.

 

[mikegp]

Oh, when you said seal the the edge of the the box you meant behind it? I thought you meant the cover to the box.

 

[rrolleston]

Yeah behind it. What I usually do is put duct seal around where the wire/conduit to through and then a little where each screw goes through. Helps prevent water from going in.

 

[busman]

It'd be nice if you installed the cable connector properly.

Mark

 

[Toller]

It'd be nice if you installed the cable connector properly.

Mark

Of course it belongs outside, but if there is no room outside, but plenty inside; is that so bad?

 

[AllanJ]

It'd be nice if you installed the cable connector properly.

Mark

:confused1:

 

[J. V.]

It'd be nice if you installed the cable connector properly.

Mark

I agree.

Of course it belongs outside, but if there is no room outside, but plenty inside; is that so bad?

The question is, did the OP know which side went in or out? I bet on him not knowing and just doing what came easy.

 

[mikegp]

I know which way it goes. If I installed it on the back it would have pushed the box forward. I don't think it really matters and to me it's better like this anyway.

 

[kbsparky]

It'd be nice if you installed the cable connector properly.

Mark

Do you have any proof that you can not install it with the clamp on the inside? I've seen `em installed both ways ....

 

[sublime2]

Do you have any proof that you can not install it with the clamp on the inside? I've seen `em installed both ways ....

Of course they don't!
Just showing their perceived superiority.

 

[Jason34]

Does it really matter which way that clamp connector is? I know it should be the other way but I can see why he did it that way. Just wanted to know if that is a code violation.

 

[mikegp]

The receptacle and it's mounting cover is grounded by the bare ground wire through the chassis of the receptacle itself, thereby grounding the cover and the box when attached.

Can you explain this a little more please? I forgot to ask when you originally posted it. Thanks.

 

[AllanJ]

The receptacle and it's mounting cover is grounded by the bare ground wire through the chassis (yoke; frame; mounting strap) of the receptacle itself, thereby grounding the cover and the box when attached.

When you have a metal box, a separate length (pigtail) attached to the bundle of ground wires inside, or a long enough extension of one of the incoming ground wires, must be attached to the box itself. But if a clip intended for the purpose is squashed between the receptacle chassis and the box then only one of the two, the receptacle or the box, needs a ground wire attached to it.

 

[mikegp]

What's confusing is I'm not sure what he means by receptacle. He said it's grounded by the bare ground wire through the receptacle. So he's saying without pigtailing the bare ground coming from the panel going under the screw labeled G on the black part(to me the black part is the receptacle) would ground the cover? Is it touching the metal cover inside the black part somehow?