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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello! I'm installing an Aqara light switch (with neutral) but nothing is powering on after getting everything wired up. I've attached pictures of the original switch (working) and the smart switch (not working). I've confirmed power was restored at the panel and voltage tester confirms power in the box. I've also tried swapping the red (L1) and black (L) wires and rechecked all the caps. I've also re-installed the original light switch and showed everything is still working.

Any thoughts on how I should continue troubleshooting?

Thanks!

Edit: Here's my understanding of how I have it wired. Let me know if I'm mistaken!

Switch ------ House
Green (G) - Ground (copper)
Red (L1) - Live/Line (black) (I've tried swapping these two)
Black (L) - Live/Load (black) (I've tried swapping these two)
White (N) - Neutral (white)


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First pic, neutral wires in a residence are not BLACK.
You may have toasted the switch because there is no neutral connection to the switch.
 

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In the first pic, don't I have the white neutral from the switch connected to the white neutral clump of wires from the house? Sorry if I'm misunderstanding.
Your wiring is fine, I think the above post missed the neutral in this switch box. The thumbnail for your thread is very misleading. It looks like a no neutral box when in fact you do have neutral

As the post above this says, you most likely have line and load black wires reversed. Did you try it the other way? Did you use a NCV or multimeter to determine which one is load and which one is line?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
As the post above this says, you most likely have line and load black wires reversed. Did you try it the other way? Did you use a NCV or multimeter to determine which one is load and which one is line?
Thanks for taking a look. I did try it both ways by swapping the black wires and still no luck. I don't think so, but could swapping the black wires have broken anything?

I just tried the contact sensor and confirmed there is power on the Red→Black connection but not the Black-Black connection.

I'm starting to think the switch is just broken and I need to order a new one to try :( I never changed any of the wires, just the blacks, so I don't think I could have fried anything.
 

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Thanks for taking a look. I did try it both ways by swapping the black wires and still no luck. I don't think so, but could swapping the black wires have broken anything?

I did just take the contact sensor and confirm there is power on the Red→Black connection but not the Black-Black connection.

I'm starting to think the switch is just broken and I order a new one to try :( I never changed any of the wires, just the blacks, so I don't think I could have fried anything.
Very unlikely to break stuff inside your walls, etc, by installing the black wires backwards.

OK so label that black wire you plugged into the red side with some tape, that is from the line side cable. It is possible that plugging this into the output of the smart switch might have fried it. I’m not sure how robust they are against this (feels like they ought to design them to not break… to minimize returns). It’s also possible it is broken, I’ve received a few broken ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I’m not sure how robust they are against this (feels like they ought to design them to not break… to minimize returns). It’s also possible it is broken, I’ve received a few broken ones.
If it did break anything, it would be very silly because the install instructions do not differentiate the Line and Load wires at all. It refers to them as Line/Load without saying which goes to which in the switch. I figured if the direction was important then they would say :/
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The neutral is most likely ok, the existing light fixture must be powered through the big neutral clump in a code compliant installation.

To test the neutral take a multimeter and read the AC voltage between neutral and line. That should read ~120VAC

With a smart switch the device is going to draw power from the line side to power the radio etc. So they should have been clearer. The Red/Black color coding on the wires of the smart switch is standard, I bet they’re assuming people sort of know the standard and flaked out on writing their instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks. I've confirmed the neutral wire is reading 120, labeled the black line wire, and reconnected the old switch.

I'll try again tomorrow with a new one. Can we double check my plan? I will connect the BLACK LINE wire in the wall to the BLACK (L) wire on the switch. I will connect the BLACK LOAD wire in the wall to the RED (L1) wire on the switch.
 

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Yup. If you can confirm in the instructions that the L is line that would be best, but if I had the switch in hand and info you have available, this is how I would wire it up even without confirmation, and if something goes wrong I would feel righteous in blaming the manufacturer.
 

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Hmm...do you still think so? Where do you see that? Here are the colors on the switch:
Green: G
Red: L1
Black: L
White: N
Sorry about that, in my lighting the insulated green wire looked black, once I realized it wasn't I just deleted the post.
 

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I would redo the neutral connection. Stranded wire and solid wire can sometimes be a pain. I don't think it matters which wire is listed as line or load.
 
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