I plan on running it underground to the panel in my shop.Do you want to run the connection to the house overhead or underground?
Thanks RJ.Your requirements are small. I would run a 12/3 UF cable (direct bury at 24" cover), fed from a 20 amp 2 pole breaker in your workshop sub panel. This will effectively give you 2 20 amp circuits, it is called a MWBC (Multi wire branch circuit). Use 1 of the 20 amp circuits for the AC and the heater (they will not be run at the same time). Use the other 20 amp circuit for the lights and the rest pf the receptacles.
I was having a procedure that day and was knocked out when he came by so my wife talked to him. She told him what we wanted, walked him through the shed, the shop, and the main breaker in our garage. At that time I wasn't even thinking about doing it myself.What did the electrician recommend to be installed?
Sounds like a 60 amp sub panel with a couple of circuits will be more than enough.
I gather you won't be maintaining the temperature in there continuously because that would be too costly. OK so in winter you're going to get a 15x20 shed from icy cold, up to comfortable temperature, using nothing but ONE, "small" electric space heater that is 1500 watt, 5120 BTU? LOL that's not gonna work. Practical matter, the space will be unusable in the winter. Is the wife OK with it?It will also have a small a/c window unit and a small electric heater.
I really wish people would stop using the word "small" in association with electric heaters. It's like they're "wishing on a star" that they can make the power requirement less than it's actually going to be.Your requirements are small.
I think that's a fantasy. Of course you have code requirements. And you have inspections too - they come up when you sell, or post-accident when the insurer is evaluating whether they need to pay and/or when the DA is deciding whether to press charges. Like this nincompoop who did a turn with the criminal justice system, and will have wages and social security garnished for the rest of his life.I live out in the country so I am not required to have any code inspections or permits.
I was doing chemo that day so my wife talked to him. She told him what we wanted, walked him through the shed, the shop, and the main breaker in our garage. At that time I wasn't even thinking about doing it myself.What did the electrician recommend to be installed?
Sounds like a 60 amp sub panel with a couple of circuits will be more than enough.
Well that was encouraging lol. I appreciate your feedback but I'm not going to go into some long response to try and provide answers to all of that. Your points are valid and again, I do appreciate you pointing them out in great detail. ThanksFirst, getting power from the workshop to the shed.
I know you're trying to keep the circuit "small" by pretending the loads will be less than they will be, but I think you are underestimating.
Look, I know that if you're kinda new to electrical, messing with conduit can be daunting. You barely feel comfortable with hucking down Romex cable. I get that. But counterpoint: skills can be learned, and steel conduit can be trenched with a garden trowel. Wires can't. It only requires 6" burial depth (12" if vehicles drive over it). Also conduit work can be done in bits and pieces, since the wire is pulled in only when done. Add also: if you later find the #12 wires you stuck in there are insufficient, you can yank 'em out and upgrade them as high as 50A (#8 wire) quite easily.
The RMC and IMC type conduit eligible for 6" is expensive as heck at over $2/foot, but you are only going 15 feet so you are still likely to get the underground work done for less than $60 of pipe.
Heating, ventilation, air conditioning
I gather you won't be maintaining the temperature in there continuously because that would be too costly. OK so in winter you're going to get a 15x20 shed from icy cold, up to comfortable temperature, using nothing but ONE, "small" electric space heater that is 1500 watt, 5120 BTU? LOL that's not gonna work. Practical matter, the space will be unusable in the winter. Is the wife OK with it?
Also those space heaters are not approved to run unattended. That'll cause problems with your fire insurance.
What you need is a mini-split heat pump that will be 240 volts. Youtube is full of DIYers endorsing heat pumps and showing the ease of installation. That info is accurate. They are perfectly possible to DIY at under $1000. They are 2-3 times the efficiency in both heat and A/C mode and notably, much quieter than a rattley window unit. The electricity savings will pay for the unit in a year or two of use. In fact, not a bad idea for your shop, either.
Because of their very high efficiency, the typical mini-splits kick out enough BTUs that you can just start them an hour or two before you plan to go out there. And better, a lot of them have WiFi so you can turn them on from the house.
The newer heat pumps do work at any temperature you'll have in the 48 states. Extreme cold down to -5F makes them less efficient but they do work and don't need emergency heat.
Powering a 240V mini-split along with 120V appliances again favors conduit. You could put a 240V circuit in the pipe along with a 120V circuit for other appliances (since they are different voltages) or you can run 3 wires + ground and have a subpanel in the shed. Or you could start with one and change to th other later. Beauty of conduit
Plumbing, and therefore, heating
The fact you're putting water out there will necessitate proper heating to prevent pipe freeze. Ask a Texan - being in traditionally moderate climates does not protect you from occasional freeze. You don't want to be running space heaters in desperation. Get proper built-in heating that will do the job on demand.
I really wish people would stop using the word "small" in association with electric heaters. It's like they're "wishing on a star" that they can make the power requirement less than it's actually going to be.
All heaters are 1500 watts, folks. That's 12.5 amps.
I think that's a fantasy. Of course you have code requirements. And you have inspections too - they come up when you sell, or post-accident when the insurer is evaluating whether they need to pay and/or when the DA is deciding whether to press charges. Like this nincompoop who did a turn with the criminal justice system, and will have wages and social security garnished for the rest of his life.
Well he definitely gave me plenty to think about, and I appreciate that. Constructive feedback is always welcomed here.Well Leon.....has sharper discouraged you enough to stop your project yet?
As a general rule they can not garnish your SS. Only the IRS can do that and only up to 15 percent.social security garnished for the rest of his life.
This will be her art studio. She does a lot of paintings and she's pretty dang good at it.I think what she plans to do in the shed may help us help you with ideas or give better suggestions.
And your location may be a part of this since your HVAC needs will be variable depending on your climate.
If this is her "woman cave" and she will be spending a lot of time there you may want to consider enough basic power to allow expansion.
A mini-split can easily take care of both heating and cooling but you will have to keep it running year round.
Can you elaborate on what you think the end purpose of the she shed is?