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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Our New Windows
I am looking to replace five, double-mulled windows in our home. (Photo 1) These are original builders double-pane with storms. I hope you might be able to answer a few questions for me:

1) I am not sure whether to do new construction or insert replacements. Having a real solid window with the least frame area and glass areas loss is most important.

2) I have been looking at Marvin's Infinity fiberglass collection believing fiberglass is strong enough to have minimum size frames, but I am surprised these seem to take up an additional inch on both sides. Right now, the frame width of the sash is 2 inches, which gives us a really nice, large glass pane area.
Do you know which brand/model maintain might maintain the largest glass area for these double-hung?

3) I really would like to do these myself, but I have a few questions about doing full new construction replacement...

a) As per Photo 2, the current windows are surrounded by brick molding and a j-channel.
Couldn't I just remove these windows, add new windows with flanges and flashing tape from the frame to just under the existing J-channel with our removing it. Of course, I would be going a down to studs. I thought maybe because the J-channel is already flash taped underneath this might work. Caulk heavily below the flanges and over flash tape again. Seems like one could actual tuck the new flashing tape under the existing j-channel by about an inch because the nails are not right under the channel itself.
Would this work effectively and be water-proof.

b) As per Photo 3, the doubled up windows are already mulled with a stud in between and molding on top. Could I just replace both windows and overlap the flanges...then flash tape so I don't have to remove the center frame and put in fulling mulled double replacement? Would this work? As a note, these current, ancient (30 year old) wood windows have never leaked using this configuration.

c) FInal Idea...after looking at these windows the j-channel is not particularly appealing. I was thinking of another option. Is there a way to route channel on the backside of a wider brick molding so it can lap it over the j-channel to hide it. (Photo 4). Certainly a non-standard approach, but I am always thinking of new ideas and ways to make my projects more difficult.

Thanks!!!
Beerski
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retired framer
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The new deal being done here with vinyl siding is as you describe.
Corners of the house and the windows and door trim are thick and notched in the back to hide the J trim.
All except for the one above the window where is a flashing and all that.
You may get away with saving the paper behind the trim but you won't get away with sliding behind the jay. It is too sticky for that .
I don't know about over lapping flanges..
Have you measured the rough opening stud to stud, you may be able to add a little to the center 2x4.
Remove the inside trim from one window and actually measure stud to stud.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The new deal being done here with vinyl siding is as you describe.
Corners of the house and the windows and door trim are thick and notched in the back to hide the J trim.
All except for the one above the window where is a flashing and all that.
You may get away with saving the paper behind the trim but you won't get away with sliding behind the jay. It is too sticky for that .
I don't know about over lapping flanges..
Have you measured the rough opening stud to stud, you may be able to add a little to the center 2x4.
Remove the inside trim from one window and actually measure stud to stud.

Thanks, Nealtw!!

Do you know if anyone makes the type of brick trim I described...with the relief for covering the j-channel? I can route/cut my own trim, but if they already exist it might be something to check out.

I haven't tried it with flashing, but I've gotten metal-faced HVAC tape into tight spots by pushing it in with the adhesive covering intact. I anchored it at each corner and was able to strip the tape off from underneath. Yeah, I always like to make things difficult for myself. I suspect, if I go the new construction route, I will probably need to remove the siding to do it right.

Do you have any thoughts about who's windows I might use to minimize sash frame width and maximize glass pane area? I heard fiberglass construction should be the ticket, yet, ironically our ancient wooden sash frames are very narrow. Of course, that would explain why we had to sell one of our kids to pay the heat/cool bills.

Thanks!!
Beerski
 

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retired framer
Joined
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63,400 Posts
Thanks, Nealtw!!
Do you know if anyone makes the type of brick trim I described...with the relief for covering the j-channel? I can route/cut my own trim, but if they already exist it might be something to check out.

I haven't tried it with flashing, but I've gotten metal-faced HVAC tape into tight spots by pushing it in with the adhesive covering intact. I anchored it at each corner and was able to strip the tape off from underneath. Yeah, I always like to make things difficult for myself. I suspect, if I go the new construction route, I will probably need to remove the siding to do it right.

Do you have any thoughts about who's windows I might use to minimize sash frame width and maximize glass pane area? I heard fiberglass construction should be the ticket, yet, ironically our ancient wooden sash frames are very narrow. Of course, that would explain why we had to sell one of our kids to pay the heat/cool bills.

Thanks!!
Beerski
Window tape is rubber,, I don't think anyone makes the cuts in the trim like that, the siding guys do it themselves.
We have about a dozens window suppliers and some yards carry windows, I think they all buy the same pre made parts so they are all much the same. We never see the Brand names that people talk about here.
You wouldn't have to remove the siding just open ir so you could remove and replace the J.
Off the old wood windows were wider than the nominal 2 " increments and vinyl windows sell in 2" increments but are always 1/2" smaller than you order. A 3 ft window will come 35 1/2" where you might have a 37" opening and would need 1" filler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Window tape is rubber,, I don't think anyone makes the cuts in the trim like that, the siding guys do it themselves.
We have about a dozens window suppliers and some yards carry windows, I think they all buy the same pre made parts so they are all much the same. We never see the Brand names that people talk about here.
You wouldn't have to remove the siding just open ir so you could remove and replace the J.
Off the old wood windows were wider than the nominal 2 " increments and vinyl windows sell in 2" increments but are always 1/2" smaller than you order. A 3 ft window will come 35 1/2" where you might have a 37" opening and would need 1" filler.
Thanks again, Nealtw. I really appreciate your help!
Beerski
 
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