I think the normal is is to put a 2x4 on the sides and top of the window opening and foam to that so the window gets full support nailed to the top and sides.I will be redoing the whole exterior of my house and replacing all the windows. House will be taken down to sheathing, Halo Exterra GPS 1.5" foam (which will also act as WRB), and then flanged windows on top of that. I will be using furring strips over the foam to install engineering wood lap siding.
I am thinking Grace Vycor flashing for the sill, then the sides, then the top. I would then install flanged window with sealant behind against the Vycor. After securing window, I would install more Vycor up the sides, then a metal head flash, and then Vycor again over the top of that.
Once window is in, it should be fully adhered to the Exterra rigid foam, and that will makeup my drainage plane. Furring strips+ lap siding after that.
Does this sound correct? There are SO many different installation methods, it is difficult to find my exact scenario.
You saidActually I will be using window bucks (1.5") to support the perimeter of the windows, should have mentioned.
Can you describe this a bit more for me, not sure exactly where you are referring to?
No you don't, you want the water to drain out, we set the windows on 1/4" spacers and the put 1/8 shims behind that bottom flange to allow the water to get out. And now they want a 1x behind the window to wrap up on a lip.Thanks, yes there will be bugscreen wrapped at the bottom of the rainscreen (furring strips).
I won't be using a house wrap (rigid foam acting as water-resistive barrier). Do you flash the window opening under the window, and then again over the window flanges after install?
