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The cords are broken on my window counterbalances. I've taken one out and find it is pretty well sealed with pins not fasteners. I pried the top off one and find a clockspring balance. I think I will be able to replace the cord on this one, since I could get the spring end back into the slot withou removing from the housing, but i may not be so lucky when I take out others. First is this some soecial cord or can I use anything I find that is similar? Second told by the mfg. (Pella) this style is no longer available and no suggestions where to find a substitute. Is there any place that specializes in window counterbalance replacments?
 

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there goes peeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelllllllllllllllllllllaaaaaaaaaaaa!!
same c..p different toilet!
good luck with that if you figure it out let me know
i just throw them in the dumpster and put in andersens
you just have to make it work with what you find, i gave up on it
 

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Where are you located?? Any name brand on the balance or window?? We have a specialty guy that has many obsolete and lots of hard to find balances. 'All Doors&Window Parts' 302 654-9379. But check the yellow pages for vendors in your area, search the web, etc. Rebuilding that balance rarely works.
 

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The cords are broken on my window counterbalances. I've taken one out and find it is pretty well sealed with pins not fasteners. I pried the top off one and find a clockspring balance. I think I will be able to replace the cord on this one, since I could get the spring end back into the slot withou removing from the housing, but i may not be so lucky when I take out others. First is this some soecial cord or can I use anything I find that is similar? Second told by the mfg. (Pella) this style is no longer available and no suggestions where to find a substitute. Is there any place that specializes in window counterbalance replacments?
I've had very little luck repairing these balance boxes. After replacing broken cords and springs, they need to be brazed back together. They can be bolted, through the spool centers, but there's no headroom above or below the box for the bolt heads or nuts. Brazing isa likely to burn the cord.
I have devised an alternate method, using Primeline overhead channel balances. These are cheap, but the method is very labor intensive, and should be attempted only by a good mechanic who is already familiar with replacement of Pella balance boxes.

I'd be happy to share the method with interested parties. Email [email protected].
 

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I get catalogs from Blaine window hardware. Try an internet search if you don't have a local business that handles this hardware.
Ron
 

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I get catalogs from Blaine window hardware. Try an internet search if you don't have a local business that handles this hardware.
Ron
Thanks, Ron. I also have used Blaines. Their CB1010 series is in fact the Primeline FC series overhead channel balance. They are a pretty pricey.

Blaines - https://www.blainewindow.com/catalog/iteminfo.cfm?itemid=6643&compid=1

#122 is $15.40.

I buy them from TechnologyLK - http://www.technologylk.com/product...C122/15-1-4-Overhead-Channel-Balance-122.html

FC122 is $10.54.

The original question was about Pella Clockspring-type overhead balance boxes. I have not seen these at Blaines or anywhere else. Pella stopped using this design in the early seventies, and stopped making replacement units several years ago. I don't think anyone other than Pella ever made a replacement unit for this.
 

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How to replace Pella Counter Balance

I have 1960's Pella windows with broken cords and broken springs. I tried to repair them but I could not find the springs. Instead I used boxes from Andersons. They are smaller and thinner but they work. They have two holes in the middle which I enlarged a little to put screws all the way thru. Two more screws for the end holes. I left the old Pella pivots in the side of the windows (middle). The Anderson's come with a different fitting. It's tubular. I drilled holes 3 cm down from the top. I made a grove for the chord. The hole is 3/4" deep. I put the window in using the Pella pivots. Turn the window up so I can still see the new holes. Using pliers I pulled down the new chord and slotted the fitting in.
One trick for the front chord which can disappear behind the top wood filler piece. Ahead of time I pulled it down and put a plastic clamp on it so it would not go back all the way. Worked like a charm.
Where to buy: http://www.swisco.com/Andersen-823-...-Sash-Support-Andersen-Window-Balances/24-837
I used the Box 837 which are 8 #'s for 31" w x 27" window. NOT the opening.
I used the Box 737 which is 7 #'s for a 35" w 19" window.
I'm not a window guy just a DIY guy. It saved a lot of money on replacement.
 

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When I started to read this post it reminded me of when my dad and I used to replace sash cord with bronze chain on the windows in old houses with the cast iron counter weights. That was fairly easy, as there was a removable side panel in the Jamb. Just another thing that they use to do right and screwed up along the way, huh?
 

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Have A Go had it right. Using Andersen boxes works. I have replaced Pella boxes in 4 windows with Andersen boxes so far. As HAG said, just measure the window to pick the correct box (the first number in the Andersen box nomenclature means pounds, ie. 637 is a 6# box with a 37" cord). Take the top molding off the window to expose the old boxes, pry them out (will probably come out in pieces). Since the Andersen's are smaller you need to position them so the cords are lined up correctly. You will also need to drill holes to hold the new boxes in place (there is a rather thick metal plate to drill through in my windows). I put two screws at the end of the Andersen boxes to secure the new box (used sheet metal octagonal head screws) and drilled one hole through the cord-end of the box (there are already two holes in the top cover so you can be sure to miss the cables and internal bits). I drilled through the front hole because it was easier to do. Once in place, to attach the cords I left the Pella swivels in place but just drilled holes in the side of each sash to insert the Andersen cylindrical cord end (just as HAG said, I used a 5/16 bit which was perfect). Worked great. I have 4 done (did 2 on Sunday) and about 6 more to go. Wish me luck. I really want to thank Have A Go. He may be a "Newbie" but he really got my DIY spirit back in gear. Thanks !
 

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Have A Go had it right. Using Andersen boxes works. I have replaced Pella boxes in 4 windows with Andersen boxes so far. As HAG said, just measure the window to pick the correct box (the first number in the Andersen box nomenclature means pounds, ie. 637 is a 6# box with a 37" cord). Take the top molding off the window to expose the old boxes, pry them out (will probably come out in pieces). Since the Andersen's are smaller you need to position them so the cords are lined up correctly. You will also need to drill holes to hold the new boxes in place (there is a rather thick metal plate to drill through in my windows). I put two screws at the end of the Andersen boxes to secure the new box (used sheet metal octagonal head screws) and drilled one hole through the cord-end of the box (there are already two holes in the top cover so you can be sure to miss the cables and internal bits). I drilled through the front hole because it was easier to do. Once in place, to attach the cords I left the Pella swivels in place but just drilled holes in the side of each sash to insert the Andersen cylindrical cord end (just as HAG said, I used a 5/16 bit which was perfect). Worked great. I have 4 done (did 2 on Sunday) and about 6 more to go. Wish me luck. I really want to thank Have A Go. He may be a "Newbie" but he really got my DIY spirit back in gear. Thanks !
Man you really slipped a few cogs there mate, but you are a man after my own heart. "These things take time dear, besides, the fish are biting!" LOLOL
 
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