[xtal_01]

This is one of the last details I need to decided on with my new workshop. It is 3500 sq ft with 2x6 (16 ft high) walls. I am covering with pre finished Hardie plank nailed directly to the stud frame (house wrap between). No sheeting. This will save about $5K in material.


I have watched dozens of videos and read a bunch of articles ... now more confused more than ever!


The first problem is what to make the casing out of. I used PVC on the house. I was not really happy with it. The biggest problem was the expansion / contraction ... I have a large number of caulked joints opening up. I also don't like the finish (cut ends are rough).



So, I figured since I am using Hardie (cement board) on the walls, why not for the trim. The first problem how to cut a groove for the nailing fin? Cement board does not cut well ... especially on a 6 ft long groove. I guess I could space it out but with what?


I thought about wood. Unfortunately the window trim would then need painting (Hardie plank has a 15 year warranty on finish ... 50 year on product).


Still it might be my best option. What kind of wood would you use for external casing? Any special primer (I will give it two finish coats) that may help weatherproof the casing?


OK ... then my second question .... flashing. I watched your videos ... simple to flash a window without a casing. If you have a casing, do you "double flash" ... once on top of the window and then a second time on top of the casing (you will have a large step where the siding hits the casing)?


What about at the bottom of the window. Do you need some kid of flashing to let any water that get in around the window out before the siding? In other words, flashing under the bottom window casing?


This is one of the last details I need to complete in the design. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!

 

[Bud9051]

I can't follow your explanation on windows. With sheathing I just fastened the standard new construction window flange to the perimeter of the opening, added flashing, then housewrap and siding.

My guess is Hardie will advise against omitting the sheathing and relying on the siding to secure the frame. You could cut-in some long diagonals like old construction but I don't know how codes would look at that. I suspect they would want to see an engineer stamp saying it is good.

16' walls will require every stud to be cut to length as no pre-cuts for that. Plus you will need a fire break at 8', also spelled out in your stamped plans.

What are you using for rafters, trusses?

Is this being built for you, or you alone, or you and a crew?

Bud

 

[xtal_01]

Hey!


OK ... for better or worse, I live in an area with no building inspector.


Yes, in a 16 ft wall, I will need at least one first stop. I am going top put in a piece of 2 x 6 blocking so I can use it to join the interior sheeting.



So this is all up to me ... if it stays up or falls over.


Actually, Hardie shows in their instructions that you can in fact put the siding on without sheeting.


Yes, I will need to let in corner supports. I will either let in a 1 x 4 or more likely a commercial available Tee made for this.


I will put a 2 x 6 on flat around the window so I have something to put the casing onto and the Hardie.


I am going to use supplied trusses.


My problem is actually the window casing. I just have never done this. I just used the built in J channel and ran vinyl siding.


With the Hardie, I want to make proper casing. I have looked everywhere and just can't see a detail for how to flash this properly.


I can's even find out how to build the casing. I see all kids of videos on PVC or wood .. but this won't work for Hardie. I can't groove the back to go around the nail fin. I don't know if I should flash above the window or above the casing or both. Do I leave a gap at the bottom for water drain?


Just looking for some details.

 

[Nealtw]

Can you find a picture of what you would like to have when the trim is done?

On a high wall like that the siding guys usually do two hard flashing, one right above the window and the side trim with the ends turned up to stop wind driven rain and then another above the top trim.

 

[xtal_01]

I will draw one up and post it here.


I think you and I are on the same track!


After watching a bunch of videos, I saw guys flashing above the windows or above the casing.


As I was drawing the detail, I kept asking myself why not do both?


You even answered one more of my questions ... what to do at the end of the flashing ...



Turn it up!


I have found most builders think I am nuts when I worry about things like this but I am a detailed person .... a machinist.


Worse, I worked for years in the nuclear industry where details are everything!


As I said, I will draw it up and post it. I still am not sure what do under the the casing ... it must need some kind of flashing or overlap the casing.


Would you use the Hardie and space it out .. say 1/4" ... with ??? ...



Or use wood ????


Or PVC ... though as I said, I would rather not ... walked around the house today and saw 1/2" gaps in my 5 year old PVC trim.


Thanks .... Mike

 

[Nealtw]

I will draw one up and post it here.


I think you and I are on the same track!


After watching a bunch of videos, I saw guys flashing above the windows or above the casing.


As I was drawing the detail, I kept asking myself why not do both?


You even answered one more of my questions ... what to do at the end of the flashing ...



Turn it up!


I have found most builders think I am nuts when I worry about things like this but I am a detailed person .... a machinist.


Worse, I worked for years in the nuclear industry where details are everything!


As I said, I will draw it up and post it. I still am not sure what do under the the casing ... it must need some kind of flashing or overlap the casing.


Would you use the Hardie and space it out .. say 1/4" ... with ??? ...



Or use wood ????


Or PVC ... though as I said, I would rather not ... walked around the house today and saw 1/2" gaps in my 5 year old PVC trim.


Thanks .... Mike

Here after the wrap they strap with 1/2" treated plywood that is supplied in 2" strips.



This a local guy here, most people use house wrap.


The white wood is just off the rack 2 and better that has had a wire brush treatment o rough it up and it as been primed all sides with some oil based primer, tat might have an insecticide mixed in. 2 coats of finish paint and caulked, we seldom see a problem with the odd piece in the first 20 years. The house I am in has trim like in the video about 12 years old, hasn't been painted and doesn't need it yet.

 

[xtal_01]

WOW ... this is what I was looking for!


Now that is an awesome trick for bending the flashing.



So I can "tuck" the siding up under the casing.


And as you said, flash above he window and then above the casing.


GOT IT!


I guess I will have to face nail the Hardie siding below the windows .. but that should be the only place. I think I can blind nail everywhere else.


Am I correct?


You can't imagine how very much I appreciate your advice !!!!!!!!!!!!!


Mike

 

[Nealtw]

WOW ... this is what I was looking for!


Now that is an awesome trick for bending the flashing.



So I can "tuck" the siding up under the casing.


And as you said, flash above he window and then above the casing.


GOT IT!


I guess I will have to face nail the Hardie siding below the windows .. but that should be the only place. I think I can blind nail everywhere else.


Am I correct?


You can't imagine how very much I appreciate your advice !!!!!!!!!!!!!


Mike

I can't say I have ever noticed what they do with the nails under he window. I have never noticed nails but they might be there.

 

[xtal_01]

Thanks so much again !!!!!!!


I will have to give this a bit of thought.


Maybe I could put the bottom piece of siding up ... then the casing (so it covers the nails in the siding ... then the top flashing ... finally finish the siding.


That might work ... got to give it some thought.


Thanks again !!!!!!!!


Mike