Will this pass inspection?
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I've never incurred an insulation inspection...
Where are you....are you in Cali with Title 24.
(I guess your electrical/plumbing/mecanical has allready been completed.)
I'd just honestly ask your building official as to what code you need to comply.....
Where are you....are you in Cali with Title 24.
(I guess your electrical/plumbing/mecanical has allready been completed.)
I'd just honestly ask your building official as to what code you need to comply.....
Yes, need to know where you are. Where I live, that wouldn't pass. You need a 4 mil poly air/vapor barrier and r-19 insulation minimum, though they might cut you a little slack in a remodel situation.
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It seems to be an acceptable method but in my house the wood will have a vapor barrier / retarder or whatever that paper is called.
No just this small town in Ohio. I am hoping he just wants to see that its there. I may send him a pic just so he doesn’t waste a visit. Yes, plumbing and electrical inspections are done. Insulation is the last step.
. Thanks everyone.
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Glad it passed. I was an inspector in NY and I would have passed it.
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He had told me a while back when he was here for framing inspection, but I forget the details now. I will try to remember to ask him on the final.
This may be way too late, but I will weigh in on the issue. I am a licensed home inspector in FL and also construct/install custom showers. First and foremost you must comply with the authority having jurisdiction.
Now, the generalities:
1 - The paper backing on the insulation IS a/the vapor barrier, that is why it is to be installed towards the conditioned space.
2 - If you are truly "waterproofing" (i.e. Kerdiboard, epdm's like Redguard, Hydroban, Aquadefense) your shower walls you do/should not need a vapor barrier behind your substrate.
》BTW backer boards are not waterproof, they remain stable when/after wet.
3 - IF you are not "waterproofing" your shower walls I would recommend installing the 4 mil sheathing (as previously suggested), or 40# felt instead of paper-backed insulation, though, still having insulation on your exterior wall.
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Now, the generalities:
1 - The paper backing on the insulation IS a/the vapor barrier, that is why it is to be installed towards the conditioned space.
2 - If you are truly "waterproofing" (i.e. Kerdiboard, epdm's like Redguard, Hydroban, Aquadefense) your shower walls you do/should not need a vapor barrier behind your substrate.
》BTW backer boards are not waterproof, they remain stable when/after wet.
3 - IF you are not "waterproofing" your shower walls I would recommend installing the 4 mil sheathing (as previously suggested), or 40# felt instead of paper-backed insulation, though, still having insulation on your exterior wall.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
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The energy code in NY has 2 options. One is the prescriptive method where the code spells out what to put in walls, ceilings, etc. Almost no one uses that method. Most use the performance method, where values for windows, walls, ceilings, HVAC efficiency, etc. are entered into a computer program and it passes or fails. That works well because it allows trade offs. Want more glass then bump up walls or ceilings or use more efficient equipment. It is interesting changing values to see what works that is easiest and/or cheapest.
Because moisture gets trapped behind the plastic and rots everything out.
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