[motex]

Hello All,

So I'm getting a new roof and I'm getting quotes now. One of the sales reps who came out to look at the house wants to do more than the roof... he wants to change the way my attic ventilates. As part of the quote, he wants to add 36 soffitt vents, 18 roof louver vents, and a matching ridge cap (which I think is the same as a ridge vent?).

Here's my take on it: My current attic ventilation is not causing any problems, so if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Because my house is oddly shaped, I have 6 gable vents and they seem to do the job just fine. I am out in the country and we get plenty of wind here, and it blows pretty much the length of the house where the vents are. My attic does get hot, but what attic doesn't? What are the symptoms of a poorly ventilated attic, other than it getting hot? Also, he didn't say anything about closing up the gable vents, which I believe messes up the whole soffitt/ridge vent system.

I'd rather leave the ventilation alone; unless I'm comfortable that it's actually going to be worth it (money and the ungodly looking roof vents on there forever).

The house was built in 1990.

Thanks

motex

 

[Missouri Bound]

Are you in need of a new roof because of leaks or just concerned about it's age?

Did the roofer tell you why he wants to do this? Some roofing manufacturers require a certain amount of ventilation before they guarantee the life of the roof.
Ask him why he wants to do this other than running up your bill.

And get a couple of more roofers to bid the job as well.
I have always used the "three bid" approach to projects to get pricing averages and to see who is offering what in terms of materials, length of project and warranties.

 

[Nealtw]

Is this the first roof after 30 years?

Are you in a cold zone where you could get ice dams?
Does heat radiate down in the summer.
Have you given the attics a close inspection for water stains and rusty nails?

Are your heating and cooling bills high?

 

[motex]

Hello Missouri Bound,

I asked him why I would put in soffitt vents and the other stuff when the house hasn't had it since it was built and there are no problems, and his basic answer was "I am a certified attic ventilation specialist". He asked about the upstairs rooms being hotter, to which I replied "Yes" and thought to myself "Duh, heat rises, the upstairs will always be hotter."

Leaks and age are both reasons we are getting a new roof. The age isn't a surprise, the inspector when we bought the house four years ago said it looked like the roof was 20+ years old. We are missing a few shingles and the roof is discolored and wavy. One roofer that gave a quote said that the shingles were missing their grit and were slick. Plus we have leaks along the back edge, one roofer said the fascia (?) is too tall. I suspect the plywood is too low and sagging, but either way the bottom edge of the shingles looks like a little ramp so that water can pool right before it goes into the gutter.

This current guy was the second bid. We'll get at least one more. The first guy didn't say anything about the attic ventilation. Of interest, this current guy showed up with a pre-printed estimate that included the vents, which he couldn't have known needed added/changing until he got to the house. Maybe he is a smart guy and brought two estimates, one with and one without, but I still think its kind of fishy.

motex

 

[motex]

NealTW,

I'm told the back roof was replaced due to hail damage some time ago, but yes I believe the rest of the roof is original.

One of the roofers talked about ice dams, but I haven't seen it happen here. We're in central Missouri where it could happen I think, but not that much.

I checked for rusty nails and didn't see any any. There are only two spots (aside from the porch) where there seems to be a little bit of moisture getting into the attic, and they are both in the vicinity of a chimney.

My heating and cooling bills are astronomical lol. I have 2600 square feet of climate controlled area. Usual summer electric bill is $400+.

I guess the thing that really irks me is that the guy really provided no data about why I need to change the attic ventilation. Seems to me that what would be required is to either A) take temp measurements during the summer to see how hot the attic is and compare that number to a similar house with different ventilation to see what the difference is, or B) calculate air cfm movement and show how much better the new system would be and how much cooler the attic would be AND how that would actually lower my bills. No data, no sale.

motex

 

[Nealtw]

NealTW,

I'm told the back roof was replaced due to hail damage some time ago, but yes I believe the rest of the roof is original.

One of the roofers talked about ice dams, but I haven't seen it happen here. We're in central Missouri where it could happen I think, but not that much.

I checked for rusty nails and didn't see any any. There are only two spots (aside from the porch) where there seems to be a little bit of moisture getting into the attic, and they are both in the vicinity of a chimney.

My heating and cooling bills are astronomical lol. I have 2600 square feet of climate controlled area. Usual summer electric bill is $400+.

I guess the thing that really irks me is that the guy really provided no data about why I need to change the attic ventilation. Seems to me that what would be required is to either A) take temp measurements during the summer to see how hot the attic is and compare that number to a similar house with different ventilation to see what the difference is, or B) calculate air cfm movement and show how much better the new system would be and how much cooler the attic would be AND how that would actually lower my bills. No data, no sale.

motex

He has peaked your interest and you are here doing some more research.
I would bet that he is right about most if not all of what you have.

Your best bet would be an energy audit, might be hard to come by right now.

In the winter the attic will suck air from the house complete with moisture
and that is a good cause for sagging plywood.

In the summer Heat will radiate down from the attic and the attic might supply replacement air when you run fans like the range and the bath.

I would bet that the roof is not original to the house, likely more like 10 to 15 years.

Do some more research and for more information, you might just ask a company that does insulation what they think.

I believe venting is money well spent in every climate zone.

https://www.iko.com/na/pro/building-professional-tools/roofing-101/how-to-install-a-roof-vent/

 

[Bud9051]

There are improvements that should be done in the most convenient (lower cost0 sequence. Example is adding insulation. That should be preceded by air sealing between house and attic and usually involves adding baffles and making sure soffits are adequately ventilated.

If the gable vents are working ( they have for many for a long time) skip the ridge vent. But I would review the current soffit venting as low vents improve the performance of the high vents.

From that electric bill it sounds like there is definitely room for improvement and when changes reduce energy costs it helps pay for those changes.

We can help you do a DIY energy audit if you would like.

Bud

PS gable vents do not interfere with soffit to ridge venting, old myth.

 

[Missouri Bound]

NealTW,

I have 2600 square feet of climate controlled area. Usual summer electric bill is $400+.

What is your electric bill in the off seasons, spring and fall when no heating or cooling is being used? Most electric companies have a lot of information available for your usage on their website. If you have an all electric home your water heater and clothes dryer contribute quite a bit to your bill.
But I am in southern Missouri and have an all electric house. I too have a 2600 sq. ft. home but it is a ranch with a walkout. The walkout needs very little heat or cool because 1/2 of it is buried in the ground.
And my high bills are winter....around $200 while the summer bills stay around $150.
How old is your heating system?

 

[Old Thomas]

I would have low and high vents, such as soffit vents and either roof vents, gable vents or ridge vents. Then the attic will vent from convection. Having only high vents will not exchange air adequately. Having multiple kinds of high vents will let them short circuit and not exchange air thoroughly. My house has peaks in three directions. Each has a wall louver. I also have continuous soffit vents. Since it has places for gable vents I chose not to have roof penetrations with roof vents. Being a certified ventilation expert doesn't impress me any more than if he was the best ballerina in Galveston. He probably spent $100 on a webinar and printed an attendance certificate. It needs adequate ventilation and air exchange, not rocket science.

 

[Missouri Bound]

Being a certified ventilation expert doesn't impress me any more than if he was the best ballerina in Galveston.

galvestonballet.org

 

[Old Thomas]

galvestonballet.org

My apologies to all the great ballerinas of Galveston.