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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I shut off the whole house gate valve.

After a day it is still dripping from the faucet downstairs

I opened 1 faucet upstairs too and it drained alot more but it is dripping.
I can open the bib outside right above the shutoff (lowest point) and it drips once a second.

I would think it is enough to do any work inside the house might be OK except the plumber told me he can't do his job soldering inside the house. I think no water will come out when I let the outside bib open and drip because the faucets inside stopped dripping when I did.

He thinks the whole gate valve and Pressure reducing valve needs to be replaced gave me some $700 estimate for that.

Do I need to open more faucets upstairs or does it sound like things are fine as long as the location of repair is not dripping?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
also, would the water heater (Gas) be damaged when the water shut off and the pipes empty?

If the slow drip is from the whole house valve not closing completely then the water heater should be kept full all the time.

I am simply doing this while I wait for the contractor to come maybe within 24-48 hours
 

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Replace the gate with a ball valve and never have it happen again.
Water heater should be fine, still worryed about it then shut it off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks I will be looking into that.. the contractor hopefully address these issues..

I tried to turn the gate valve back on I encoutered a stop after turning it 1/4" turn counter clockwise.. What is making it stuck? Should I try harder?
 

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Could be the gates stuck in the track it sits in.
One of the four reasons gate vales where a bad idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yes it is bad..

Is it true the plumber can't work to sweat on a couple of valves at around 36" high, even though I can make it stop dripping by an arrangement of draining other lower faucets?

I found it hard to believe...

And does it really cost $700 to replace the shut off valve outside the house? It's iron pipe stuff..
 

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As long as the waters below where he's trying to solder it should not be an issue.
The whole pipe does not need to be water free.
If you have old steel pipes you should be conciding getting rid of all of it.
Steel drains or supplys will leak or close up on the insides at some point 100% of the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks

I am sorry I mistaken it for Iron

it appear to be copper after looking closely
here is a picture.


from ground it appears to be copper pipe, then sweat gate valve, that the union, pressure reducer, and union again.

Really I think you undo the unions and get the pressure reducer valve, unsolder the old valve and than replace the unions and pressure reducer valve. Parts are $50.. seems like I need to get other bids because $700 is high.

I understand have to have city shut off the main before meter, that's ok.
 

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· JOATMON
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Glad you got it done......

Just to confirm what Joe and the others said.....ball valve is the only way to go. When I moved into my house 12 years ago, one of the 1st things I did was remove the gate valve and put in a ball valve.

BTW....good time to learn how to sweat pipe....it's actually easy and will save you a ton of money in the future....that way you can leave the dirty jobs for the plumber. (and after you have crawled under a house a few times, you understand why they charge what they do....and earn every penny)
 

· JOATMON
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Why the hate? :( :( :(
I love my easy jobs.
No hate......I actually enjoy sweating pipe and doing ABS......on my house.....but I got a good taste of what you do on a regular basis when I had to reroute my main sewer line over 1.5' to make room for a footing......it was on the 16th hour in the crawl space that made me realize....."Yea, plumbers earn their pay".....
 
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