Sneak a camera into the hole and snap a picture or two.(also one of the top )
Is the contractor fixing this or will you get to do this fun job?
Is the contractor fixing this or will you get to do this fun job?
Whirlpool Tub Installation
I have hired a contractor to remodel my bathroom. My bathroom was from 70's and had a fiberglass tub with no support below in the base. It developed cracks and I decided to redo the entire bathroom since.
Well, the Lyons fiberglass whirlpool tub base was installed by the contractor and has tiled walls. I used it (i weigh 150 lbs) for the first time yesterday, and felt the tub floor flex like it did with my previous tub. I checked the access panel and there was no mortor and construction adhesive used like the installation guide (I found it on the garage floor with other scraps).
What can I do and use to correct this? At the drain end, it appears to be 1/8: of gap from bottom of tub to subfloor and at the opposite end, it is an 1". The tub does have multiple "feet" on the bottom. Any suggestions would be appreciated greatly.
Thanks.
Well, the Lyons fiberglass whirlpool tub base was installed by the contractor and has tiled walls. I used it (i weigh 150 lbs) for the first time yesterday, and felt the tub floor flex like it did with my previous tub. I checked the access panel and there was no mortor and construction adhesive used like the installation guide (I found it on the garage floor with other scraps).
What can I do and use to correct this? At the drain end, it appears to be 1/8: of gap from bottom of tub to subfloor and at the opposite end, it is an 1". The tub does have multiple "feet" on the bottom. Any suggestions would be appreciated greatly.
Thanks.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
The contractor says he thinks can put mortar in through the access panel. He said if he cannot fit the mortar, he will try door and window spray foam. Is this sufficient?
It will be a tedious job, but yes ,he should be able to work grout under the feet with a long strip of thin wood --or some other tool.
As to the foam---Perhaps---window and door foam is to spongy--regular would be a better choice,I think.
As to the foam---Perhaps---window and door foam is to spongy--regular would be a better choice,I think.
I was told you do not want regular foam because it expands too much. Thats reason for the door and window. If the mortar doesn't work, would a self leveling floor product (I do not know of a brand name) work if it could flow under the tub fairly easy to fill the voids? Or would that product not hold up?
The self leveling compound would work fine---however,if there is a hole in the floor the stuff will pour right through the hole and make a mess down below.
I am aware of the possible mess. I just do not want to go through this ordeal again. In your opinion, would the mortar be the best solution, then the self leveling product? I just don't think that mortar and using a stick will fill a lot of the voids because of the multiple feet the tub has and a small tub access and the short height to the floor at some spots. If a self leveling product is used, what company/brand name should I suggest if the mortar doesn't work?
I do think a grout (not a mortar) would be best followed be a self leveling compouund--
I use Jiffset and Linewebers liquid latex.(any brand will do)
Foam would be my last choice and the window and door foam would not be on the list(is is soft line a sponge and will not offer support)
I use Jiffset and Linewebers liquid latex.(any brand will do)
Foam would be my last choice and the window and door foam would not be on the list(is is soft line a sponge and will not offer support)
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
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