[ptarmigan61]

I am having a problem with my Whirlpool gas range. It uses an electronic ignition system for the top burners as well as the oven. The igniter for the four burners activates when you turn the knob on through an IGNITE phase. The oven is activated automatically when you turn it on.

The model is WFG361LVQ1. Serial # is R02663889. It was installed in our off grid remote cottage in late summer 2012.

It performed well for over a year, but we started having a problem where the igniters wouldn't spark. They quickly quit altogether, but I found that there was obvious overheating around two resistors on the igniter control module circuit board. I found that if I jiggled the resistors, it would work for a while, and that got us through a weekend or two. I installed a new board, and it did it again. I put a third one in, and monitored carefully and sure enough it started to get quite warm. This happens when the stove is plugged in regardless of whether you are using the range or not (I originally thought someone might have been leaving the control knobs in the IGNITE position for too long, but that turned out not to be the problem).For now, we just use a barbeque lighter for the burners, although we can't use the oven.

At the time of the first failure, we were having some trouble with voltage off the inverter (modified sine wave) of our solar power system (bad battery in one bank) that was bringing the voltage down to - at times - about 109 VAC. That has been rectified.

I have attached two photos of the circuit board. One from either side. In each case, the charring shows where the resistors have heated up and actually melted the solder connections away and charred the board.

I have been in touch with Whirlpool, and they haven't been able to help. They say the boards haven't been a problem, and that they can't think of a reason this would happen. They suggest getting a technician out to troubleshoot, but we are in a remote water access location without a tech nearby.
Are there any appliance specialists out there with any ideas?

 

[de-nagorg]

Put in another new board, and use a heat dissipation shield , fashioned by you to fit the system.

There is a shielding sold in better automotive stores, for shielding starter motors and such from header heat in street racers with headers added.


ED

 

[ptarmigan61]

That would work, except that the heat seems to be generated on the board. The resistors get hot even when no burners are on and no other heat sums to be generated anywhere else. It's like the board is burning itself out.

 

[de-nagorg]

I understand. No heat generating devices anywhere close. The burners are clear, no pilot flame nearby?

There is also a phenomena in the electronic world commonly referred to as "COLD SOLDER CONNECTION", But have not seen it on consecutive replacement boards, just one in a ten thousand, from the danged automated machinery at the factory occasionally getting one not hot enough to make a good connection.

Seems odd that you would get several in a row that are faulty.

ED

 

[FrodoOne]

You wrote "The igniter for the four burners activates when you turn the knob on through an IGNITE phase."
Hence, it seems odd that these "high wattage" resisters seem to be dissipating heat virtually continuously whenever the "range" is "plugged in".

Because of this, I suspect that (somehow) this board is continuously energized - when it should be energized only when a "spark ignition" is required for a` "burner" - or the oven.
Without the "circuit" for the "range" itself there is little more that I can suggest.

However, since the fault has affected three different "circuit boards", it is most unlikely that the fault was with all of them, which points to a problem in the wiring/switching connections TO the circuit board FROM the "range" itself.

 

[ptarmigan61]

You wrote "The igniter for the four burners activates when you turn the knob on through an IGNITE phase."
Hence, it seems odd that these "high wattage" resisters seem to be dissipating heat virtually continuously whenever the "range" is "plugged in".

Because of this, I suspect that (somehow) this board is continuously energized - when it should be energized only when a "spark ignition" is required for a` "burner" - or the oven.
Without the "circuit" for the "range" itself there is little more that I can suggest.

However, since the fault has affected three different "circuit boards", it is most unlikely that the fault was with all of them, which points to a problem in the wiring/switching connections TO the circuit board FROM the "range" itself.

That sounds like it makes a ton of sense. Anyone have any ideas on where I should start to look.

 

[BayouRunner]

I've been doing this stuff for a long time. I feel it's an electric issue. Maybe low voltage. Or a power surge. You mentioned off the grid. Do you have 240 volts? Do both legs measure the same voltage to ground. I've seen where (I'm not sure of the correct term) the power wasn't phased properly. And when you would use items at 120 volts the voltage would change and cause surges when you use something 240 volts. (Actually power would be stable while the 240 appliance, hot water heater or air conditioner was being used, but when they come in and out of use the 120 volts would vary a lot) Bad neutral wire could cause issues with power surges. I'm not an electrician but work for several major manufacturers doing their warranty work. As well as HVAC? Couldn't tell you how many boards I've changed over the years.

 

[ptarmigan61]

I've been doing this stuff for a long time. I feel it's an electric issue. Maybe low voltage. Or a power surge. You mentioned off the grid. Do you have 240 volts? Do both legs measure the same voltage to ground. I've seen where (I'm not sure of the correct term) the power wasn't phased properly. And when you would use items at 120 volts the voltage would change and cause surges when you use something 240 volts. (Actually power would be stable while the 240 appliance, hot water heater or air conditioner was being used, but when they come in and out of use the 120 volts would vary a lot) Bad neutral wire could cause issues with power surges. I'm not an electrician but work for several major manufacturers doing their warranty work. As well as HVAC? Couldn't tell you how many boards I've changed over the years.

I will do some more testing around voltage - especially under load. We don'the have 240 vac; we just have 120 from the inverter. We also don'the have many major loads such as ACs or HWTs. I will also double check the neutral. Thanks.

 

[Protocol.]

The board went as a result of something. I'm willing to bet it is because you are using a modified sine wave inverter. Swap to a full sine wave inverter and I think your problems will go away.

Or you can search modified sine wave vs pure sine wave and see the difference.

 

[ptarmigan61]

The board went as a result of something. I'm willing to bet it is because you are using a modified sine wave inverter. Swap to a full sine wave inverter and I think your problems will go away.

Or you can search modified sine wave vs pure sine wave and see the difference.

UPDATE. I hooked it up to a smaller auxiliary pure sine inverter I have, and the board started to heat up in the same fashion. Any other ideas or things I should test for?
The source inverter only puts out 120vac.

 

[hardwareman]

would like to see the wiring diagram for this stove, do you have it with your literature? Can you post it?

 

[hardwareman]

I'm leaning towards one of the burner switches possibly being in a partial on mode. Maybe disconnect each switch one at a time and see what happens

 

[ptarmigan61]

I've been out of town a lot, so hence the delay in replying. I will try disconnecting one at a time this week.

I can't attach the manual, but here is the link.....

www.applianceaid.com/pdf/DSI_manual.pdf


Thanks,
John

 

[BriarVance]

This forum help me a lot. Thanks for tips. Have a nice day!

 

[MeBeBiking]

John did you figure out your Issue with the DSI board? I'm off grid as well and I'm experiencing the same issues with the resistors over heating.

 

[doublejack]

I am having a problem with my Whirlpool gas range. It uses an electronic ignition system for the top burners as well as the oven. The igniter for the four burners activates when you turn the knob on through an IGNITE phase. The oven is activated automatically when you turn it on.

The model is WFG361LVQ1. Serial # is R02663889. It was installed in our off grid remote cottage in late summer 2012.

It performed well for over a year, but we started having a problem where the igniters wouldn't spark. They quickly quit altogether, but I found that there was obvious overheating around two resistors on the igniter control module circuit board. I found that if I jiggled the resistors, it would work for a while, and that got us through a weekend or two. I installed a new board, and it did it again. I put a third one in, and monitored carefully and sure enough it started to get quite warm. This happens when the stove is plugged in regardless of whether you are using the range or not (I originally thought someone might have been leaving the control knobs in the IGNITE position for too long, but that turned out not to be the problem).For now, we just use a barbeque lighter for the burners, although we can't use the oven.

At the time of the first failure, we were having some trouble with voltage off the inverter (modified sine wave) of our solar power system (bad battery in one bank) that was bringing the voltage down to - at times - about 109 VAC. That has been rectified.

I have attached two photos of the circuit board. One from either side. In each case, the charring shows where the resistors have heated up and actually melted the solder connections away and charred the board.

I have been in touch with Whirlpool, and they haven't been able to help. They say the boards haven't been a problem, and that they can't think of a reason this would happen. They suggest getting a technician out to troubleshoot, but we are in a remote water access location without a tech nearby.
Are there any appliance specialists out there with any ideas?

I have encountered the same problem. The DSI board is overheating resistors R1 & R2 plus a capacitor right next to the resistors. I checked to see if the stove top or bake or broil were calling for spark by measuring for 120 volts on J1 connector at pins 6,7,and 9, and they do not show 120V calling for spark. Something on the board is causing it to draw too much current, but don't know why. Did you find a solution to your issue?