[ryansdiydad]

So we have rectangular slate tile we are putting down in our foyer/mudroom.. My wife wants the tile run perpendicular to the door.. Looking on houzz we see a lot if not most houses like this.. For some reason that seems off to me.. Seems like it would just bring all the attention to the Grout lines and maybe highlight any lippage.. Perpendicular to the door will also be perpendicular to the hardwood floor in the adjoining room..

If it was hardwood then I know parrelel to the door is right.. But with tile it seems like I might be the odd man out..


But nobody is paying me to be an interior designer or a professional tile installer..

So which is most common and why?

 

[ryansdiydad]

Pic of it the other way

 

[ryansdiydad]

Other way

 

[ZZZZZ]

Like they say at the carnival, ya get 3 tries for $1.00:biggrin2:

Actually, I am getting ready to tile my entry way with slate too. But we have 12"x12" tiles, so the direction is not an issue.

If your tile was a complimentary color to the hardwood, I might go parallel with the hardwood. But since the slate is a totally different color, size and style, I might want to make the slate stand out as much as possible, not try to make it flow into the hardwood. I would go with photo #3.

But it's all a matter of personal preference, I've seen it both ways on Houzz, too. And it looks fine.

But that's the problem with Houzz, everything looks great. :biggrin2:

 

[oh'mike]

I like the lower picture--it makes the foyer look wider

 

[ryansdiydad]

A little more perspective... The foyer is 12'x13' total With about 5x5 carved out for a half bath. So beyond that picture the room widens out a good bit.

Someone also asked which way the joists run. I was wondering about that. Does that come in to play here?

The joists run perpendicular to the hardwood..

A couple more photos for reference..

The tile is also just dirty from the wet saw. It is Montauk Black so a dark gray/black color that is pretty much consistent throughout

 

[oh'mike]

Your call--I still like the direction in the lower photo--

 

[JazMan]

I like it going as in #3 too. But, now the important part.........

Natural stone requires a much stiffer subfloor system than ceramic does. I'm worried that unless you've already done the proper prep, your floor may not be stiff enough for slate.

Tell us all about your framing. Size of the joists, spacing, the longest span. Measure this from below of course. It would also be good to know the species and grade of the joists. Look for markings stamped on them.

Then we need to know what makes up the subfloor and the type and thickness of each layer. Age, condition and location may also be helpful. Start with that, pics may be helpful. Later we might suggest products and methods.

Jaz

 

[ryansdiydad]

Floor is 2x10 16" on center White Fir #2&btr

Span is currently 13ft. Architect recommended a beam in the middle to basically cut that in half and reinforce the floor. Its not there now.. but is an easy addition...

I was checking out the John Bridge Amazing Delfectolator and it shows that I need that beam for natural stone.

3/4 t&g glued and nailed.. Hardi 500 thinset and screwed on..

Live north of Chicago..

 

[JazMan]

The additional beam will take care of the joists' deflection, but you're inadequate on the subfloor. You need another layer of ply, then your concrete backer or membrane. Hardie 500 isn't gonna do you any good over their ¼".

Jaz

 

[ZZZZZ]

Ryan's Dad, have you thought about a pattern such as this?:

 

[jcrizzy]

I like perpendicular to the door and wood floor.

 

[ddawg16]

I like the lower picture--it makes the foyer look wider

Assuming post #3.....I agree as well....it balances out the look