Which door size would I order?
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Pre hung, just to be able to install the new one with the lock set.
Edited since I found my answer
Thank you!
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Hmm, a pre hung comes complete with the jam and hinges. What exactly are you measuring.
The dirty little secret of house framing is that measurements are only accurate to a quarter inch (0.25") so conceivably a door could be "off" (weasel word) up to twice that or 1/2". A half inch to left or right of where it's supposed to be or and(!) a half inch wider or narrower than it's supposed to be. That last is a major fail but has happened.
The extra width is supposed to be taken up by shim wedges and _must_ be two in each position.
(About now somebody's going to call BS on me. Well okay, but in some other universe not in the world I've seen.)
So when you look at a door you are actually looking at the slab width + 2 jamb widths + 2 gaps. So a 24" door could actually sit in a hole of 28" wide. Rant over.
The extra width is supposed to be taken up by shim wedges and _must_ be two in each position.
(About now somebody's going to call BS on me. Well okay, but in some other universe not in the world I've seen.)
So when you look at a door you are actually looking at the slab width + 2 jamb widths + 2 gaps. So a 24" door could actually sit in a hole of 28" wide. Rant over.
Let me give it a shot. The NOMINAL door size usually goes in 2” increments in width and is 6’ 8”. To the top . So for a door labeled as 2-0 the actual door itself less trim would be 24” wide. Then you normally add 3/4” to each side for the jambs bringing you to 25 1/2 and 1/4” each side for Adjustments so you frame 26” width. That said, if you are gonna screw up the rough, best to err larger than smaller. I CAN fit a 2-0 door nicely into 27; 28, or even 30” openings, but no way in hell it goes into a 24” rough.
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I think it would be most convenient if you called a master who could tell you what to do, measured everything so that it was accurate. In repair matters, the main thing is not to rush. After all, your house is your fortress, so you should not save on things that you will have at home. A friend of mine works in doordesignlab.com he says that very often he is approached by people who themselves tried to deal with a door that initially does not fit their doorway, spoiled this door or doorway and tried to sue the door store. As a result, these people spent time and money, so it's better to trust good builders.
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If you are in the US, prime doors are denoted by pros in feet and inches. A door that is 30” wide and 80” tall is a 2’6”x6’8” door, usually denoted as 2-6x6-8. If you order a 30x80 door, you might get a 3’0” wide by 8’0” high door. I made that mistake decades ago when I was learning. I ordered a 30” door and got a 3’0” wide door. If you order from a lumber yard or door supplier, feet and inches are the standard. Some big box stores that serve do it yourselves have started to use inches, though. Be mindful of the measurements used by your source.
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It is better to opt for a 28 x 78. Better the door be a little smaller than the old dimensions than to be bigger and impossible to install. That's what I did when I replaced all the doors in my house. I chose the smaller version rather than, the larger one. The specialists from where I bought my new flush doors told me about it. I listened to their advice, and I did not make a mistake. Thus, the installers could install my doors very well and without much trouble. And it fits perfectly. So, buy doors with dimensions 28 x 78.
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@susanocraig Basically this is a 2 year old thread with the Lazaruz syndrome. There are no doors in the measurements you state. The OP would need a 2-6, which is 30", and doors are 6-8 or 80" in height. But you're in Great Britain, so anything may be available.
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