[PaintedSurface]

I searched the forum and I just can't find posts that answer my questions. (maybe I took only 3 hours to look at 2 years worth of forum) I don't think I should create any more threads so I will just list my questions in this thread.

1. When is it necessary to prepare the surface by sanding?

2. When is it necessary to prepare surface by primer?

3. Is a 1/2 nap or 3/8 better for slightly rough surface?

4. Are wool roller covers much better than other material covers?

5. What is the best way to paint baseboards?

6. What kind of tools do you use? (I know you can get away with paint roller tray and a paint brush but what other tools make it easier.)

I think that will save some time looking through the forum. Thank you for all the answers and patience with these basic questions in advance.

 

[sirwired]

1) Whenever the adhesion of the topcoat would be in doubt. i.e. poor-quality existing topcoat, glossy existing topcoat, fresh drywall repairs, etc. If you do scuff-sand, make sure you thoroughly remove sanding dust.
2) Latex over oil, fresh drywall repairs, stains (use oil-base primer for most of those), uncertain quality of existing topcoat (i.e. "Builder Paint")
3) 1/2"
4) They are not necessary for DIY use. Use Purdy White Doves on a Wooster Sherlock frame. Those are cheap, high-quality, and available everywhere.
5) 2 1/2" angle-sash Purdy, Wooster, or Corona brush + Waterbourne enamel. (SW ProClassic or BM Impervo)
6) A "painters multi-tool". These have a roller cleaner, scraper, pail opener, and spackle knife all built into one tool.

And in case you hadn't gotten the message by reading this board, use only quality paint-store paint.

SirWired

 

[PaintedSurface]

Thank you for your time to write very satisfying answers.

 

[bjbatlanta]

I'm not a painter by trade, but I would recommend a 5 gal. bucket and a "screen" for your 1/2" roller as opposed to the "tray". If you have a couple of gallons of paint for your project, pour them together in the bucket. (If the guy who mixed the paint didn't quite get both formulas the same, no problem if they're mixed together.) And you keep plenty of paint on your roller. With a tray, you tend to try to get that "last little bit" of paint out to cover that "last little bit" of wall/ceiling. Your roller doesn't have enough paint to cover properly and you end up with "holidays".....

 

[clintb]

1) Whenever the adhesion of the topcoat would be in doubt. i.e. poor-quality existing topcoat, glossy existing topcoat, fresh drywall repairs, etc. If you do scuff-sand, make sure you thoroughly remove sanding dust.
2) Latex over oil, fresh drywall repairs, stains (use oil-base primer for most of those), uncertain quality of existing topcoat (i.e. "Builder Paint")
3) 1/2"
4) They are not necessary for DIY use. Use Purdy White Doves on a Wooster Sherlock frame. Those are cheap, high-quality, and available everywhere.
5) 2 1/2" angle-sash Purdy, Wooster, or Corona brush + Waterbourne enamel. (SW ProClassic or BM Impervo)
6) A "painters multi-tool". These have a roller cleaner, scraper, pail opener, and spackle knife all built into one tool.

And in case you hadn't gotten the message by reading this board, use only quality paint-store paint.

SirWired

I just wanted to add onto 3, 4 & 5. On a tip from ContractorTalk.com, I recently tried the Purdy Colossus 3/4" nap roller. Wow, just amazing. Covers like nobody's business, doesn't drip, and that thick of nap didn't leave heavy stippling even on light orange peel texture. The Colossus is even easy to clean! I'll be using those for all rolling duties from now on.

For # 5, I can't agree more for the usage of quality brushes. I tried the Home Depot special brush pack, but I could barely cut in with the 2" sash. Bought a Purdy 2.5" nylox Dale sash and I'm laying razor straight lines. Love it, just love it. Painting is fun with good tools. Ok, maybe not "fun", but it ain't pulling teeth.