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There's a lot of "each to his/her own" in plumbing, and I look at the situation to determine which to use. In your case, which you did not state in your first post, you are not dealing with pressure in a condensate drain, therefore I would use compound, specifically teflon compound. I only carry with me the teflon compound/dope and teflon tape, and as I stated, depending on the application which one I will use. PVC carrying any pressure, I use teflon tape, no pressure, teflon dope. Any screw joint on metal piping, I use teflon dope period. That's just me after 38 years of Industrial Maintenance and Home Repair. Thanks, David
 

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Discussion Starter #5
There's a lot of "each to his/her own" in plumbing, and I look at the situation to determine which to use. In your case, which you did not state in your first post, you are not dealing with pressure in a condensate drain, therefore I would use compound, specifically teflon compound. I only carry with me the teflon compound/dope and teflon tape, and as I stated, depending on the application which one I will use. PVC carrying any pressure, I use teflon tape, no pressure, teflon dope. Any screw joint on metal piping, I use teflon dope period. That's just me after 38 years of Industrial Maintenance and Home Repair. Thanks, David
Thanks for passing along your expertise. I'm lucky I have some teflon joint compound in my tool box.

Off topic, I do recall that a certain type of joint compound is not compatible with pvc pipes, but I don't think it affects me.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
There's a lot of "each to his/her own" in plumbing, and I look at the situation to determine which to use. In your case, which you did not state in your first post, you are not dealing with pressure in a condensate drain, therefore I would use compound, specifically teflon compound. I only carry with me the teflon compound/dope and teflon tape, and as I stated, depending on the application which one I will use. PVC carrying any pressure, I use teflon tape, no pressure, teflon dope. Any screw joint on metal piping, I use teflon dope period. That's just me after 38 years of Industrial Maintenance and Home Repair. Thanks, David
Do you find it interesting that you seldom see the purple primer used in joints for condensate lines?

I see the purple tint in drain lines and in the sump discharge, but never in condensate lines.
 

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GC/Master Plumber/Mech
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Just use teflon less mess. The only time I use teflon dope is when I'm working on a water well. Every thing else I use rector seal.

Colored primer is used primarly for inspection so that the codes official knows that the pipe was cleaned. Also it is a requirement of code.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just use teflon less mess. The only time I use teflon dope is when I'm working on a water well. Every thing else I use rector seal.

Colored primer is used primarly for inspection so that the codes official knows that the pipe was cleaned. Also it is a requirement of code.
And not a requirement for condensate lines?
 

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I can't remember without looking at code but I don't prime condensating line and I have never had an inspector fail me.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I can't remember without looking at code but I don't prime condensating line and I have never had an inspector fail me.
What "benefit" is lost by not priming? I've read that besides being a visual indicator, the primer actually softens the pvc and reacts with the cement to cure faster.

I've never made connections without primer. How much longer to cure without primer, or does the twisting action itself generate the onset of the cure?

Some say that the primer is the cleaner, but Oatey also sells a separate cleaning solvent.
 

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I always clean, prime and glue on pressured lines, on waste lines I prime and glue. What is lost is that if the two surfaces do not fully connect through a solvent reaction because of impurities then there could be a failure or leak.

Nothing sucks more than cutting out pipe in the basement that is connected to two more floor above.

There is a product called Rain and Shine that can be use with wet pipe and it seems to work. I glue and twist all pipe and if I am making a repair I will let it set up for five mins. Always read the glue instructions on the can for specifict times.

I carry an all purpose glue, CPVC glue, can of Rain and Shine, cleaner and primer on the truck
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I always clean, prime and glue on pressured lines, on waste lines I prime and glue. What is lost is that if the two surfaces do not fully connect through a solvent reaction because of impurities then there could be a failure or leak.

Nothing sucks more than cutting out pipe in the basement that is connected to two more floor above.

There is a product called Rain and Shine that can be use with wet pipe and it seems to work. I glue and twist all pipe and if I am making a repair I will let it set up for five mins. Always read the glue instructions on the can for specifict times.

I carry an all purpose glue, CPVC glue, can of Rain and Shine, cleaner and primer on the truck
So you would use the purple primer on a condensate line?
 

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According to the manufacturers, primer is a softening agent that jump starts the process that the glue also does. Twisting just makes sure the glue is evenly spread throughout the joint. Because I'm always working near the pressure source, and secondly for inspection reasons, I prime everything, then use rain & shine glue, plus I chamfer edges and physically clean the joint prior to the prime/glue, twist-connection. Priming also allows for a shorter curing period.

Teflon tape is what I use for surface threaded connections - it's cleaner than dope. Also, I never use female threaded PVC fittings, I switch to brass/bronze/stainless if I need a female thread.

In the well, I dope the joints - also, I use schedule 120 PVC and tapered stainless steel couplers in the well.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
According to the manufacturers, primer is a softening agent that jump starts the process that the glue also does. Twisting just makes sure the glue is evenly spread throughout the joint. Because I'm always working near the pressure source, and secondly for inspection reasons, I prime everything, then use rain & shine glue, plus I chamfer edges and physically clean the joint prior to the prime/glue, twist-connection. Priming also allows for a shorter curing period.

Teflon tape is what I use for surface threaded connections - it's cleaner than dope. Also, I never use female threaded PVC fittings, I switch to brass/bronze/stainless if I need a female thread.

In the well, I dope the joints - also, I use schedule 120 PVC and tapered stainless steel couplers in the well.
Chamfering the edges of the PVC pipe is almost a must do. If not, then fittings kind of push back when you try to insert them.
 

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Chamfering the edges of the PVC pipe is almost a must do. If not, then fittings kind of push back when you try to insert them.
Agreed. Because I fell into the plumbing end of things, I had to learn this lesson the hard way ;)
 
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