[french_guy]

I'm painting my powder room upstairs....ceiling and walls
I'm having problems with the ceiling, to the point I had to use a drywall knife to remove it before it dries up !!!
This is how it looked like (picture below):
The ceiling was already painted (not brand new drywall)
Yesterday, I sanded it and applied a skimcoat of "Dust Control" joint compound from Home Depot
Tonight (so 24 hours later), I sanded it real smooth, and it looked great. I used a slightly damp sponge to remove the dust
I purchased the Sherwin Williams Ovation special ceiling from Lowes....
Then I started to paint and got what you see on the picture: awful texture !!!
I'm not a pro, but I've painted several walls and ceiling in the past, without having any issue like that. Last december, I painted the downstairs powder room (wall, ceiling and trim) and was really happy how it turned out. Last summer, I painted my daughter's bedroom (walls only) and had great results
Looking at the picture, what do you think happened???
Is it because of the paint itself, the joint compound skimcoat?
Should I have used a primer first?
I'm planning to sand again tomorrow night, and paint with another brand. But now I'm scared to have the same issue !!!!
I need your help...............:vs_worry::vs_worry::vs_worry:

 

[mathmonger]

Probably the paint itself. Maybe it froze or went bad or just defective.

Possibly lack of stirring or completely the wrong roller cover. But I'm blaming the paint.

 

[paintdrying]

I am thinking the paint as well. Could of been some sort of contamination on the surface.

 

[french_guy]

I haven't asked the store to shake the can (1 qt) but I think I stirred it properly
But when I was doing my cut in, I found the paint to be pretty liquid/runny, not covering that well and drying very fast
My skimcoat was real smooth, so I thought I could use a 1/4" nap roller. When I saw how it looked like, i switched to a 3/8" nap....same thing
Do you think I should have primed before, or going directly with paint is OK (I was planning to put 2 coats anyway)?
Which paint would you recommend, and which roller?

I guess my next step for tomorrow night is to re-sand everything....and paint again!!!

 

[SPS-1]

Yes, you should have primed first. But I don't know if that was the issue. Something strange going on --- it looks glossy --- ceiling paint is normally flat.

 

[french_guy]

Yes, you should have primed first. But I don't know if that was the issue. Something strange going on --- it looks glossy --- ceiling paint is normally flat.

This is the paint I purchased:
http://www.lowes.com/pd/HGTV-HOME-b...-in-One-Actual-Net-Contents-32-fl-oz/50404096

So for tomorrow, after sanding: should I prime (and in that case which one would you recommend) or can I go right away with paint (another one of course.....and which one should I get)?

 

[SPS-1]

Might want to wait a while before sanding -- its likely to gum up your sandpaper with how fresh it is. Link wasn't working, but I googled it -- says 3/8-3/4" nap roller ????? -- 3/4" -- wild -- I think you had it right initially with the 1/4" roller. Better wait for a pro to chime in --- something strange here that I don't understand.

 

[french_guy]

Before I purchased the joint compound (Dust Control), I read the reviews and many were saying it was taking forever to dry....!
But I only applied a very thin skimcoat, and when I sanded it 24 hours later (tonight), it seemed pretty hard to me.....
I'm really pissed because the surface after sanding was real nice....!!!!

 

[Gymschu]

You will not be able to sand that flat. You will be skim coating again, unfortunately.

 

[french_guy]

You will not be able to sand that flat. You will be skim coating again, unfortunately.

I've removed it.......when I saw how bad it was looking, i knew there was something wrong somewhere.
I thought for a fraction of a second I should leave it like that and maybe it will flatten when drying, but then I decided it was safer to remove it (with a 6" drywall knife) when it was still fresh....I'm glad I did
So now I'm back with my 1st skimcoat (few spots with a very thin layer of paint that I should be able to sand)

 

[ront02769]

Any idea how old the prior paint is?. At one point about ten years back doing a ceiling that was ten years older than that, the latex paint reacted with I what was there and did what you ran into. A scraping and hitting it with an oil based primer sorted things out. Ron

 

[chrisn]

What kind of paint was on the ceiling originally? Maybe oil?

 

[french_guy]

I don't know what paint was on the ceiling originally
But I would think it was the same paint everywhere, and I had no issue for the powder room downstairs (ceiling and walls), my daughter's bedroom (walls), my daughter's bathroom (celiling and walls), dining room and living room (walls)
The only thing I've done differently this time was to completely skimcoat the ceiling and use this paint for the 1st time (other rooms where Behr and Benjamin Moore)
When I sanded it (24 hours after skimcoating)), it sanded very well and final result was smooth. It looked completely dry (visually and by touching it)

I'm going to resand and paint tonight:
-) Should I prime, and then which primer should I use with which roller?
-) Can I paint directly (no primer)? Which paint would you recommend? I'm planning to stick with a 1/4" nap roller.......unless you tell me otherwise
My ceiling is approximately 15 sq ft

Thanks

 

[klaatu]

This is the paint I purchased:
http://www.lowes.com/pd/HGTV-HOME-b...-in-One-Actual-Net-Contents-32-fl-oz/50404096

So for tomorrow, after sanding: should I prime (and in that case which one would you recommend) or can I go right away with paint (another one of course.....and which one should I get)?

What was the name of that old farmers dog again? Oh yeah-BINGO!

A ceiling paint that says it is scrubbable? Really? Why?:vs_mad:

 

[ToolSeeker]

Sounds like the mud was not totally dry then the moisture in the paint softened it up more. Then since a 1/4" nap roller holds almost no paint the tendency is to push harder. It left that pattern in the wet mud. And yes you should have primed.

 

[french_guy]

Weird, because when I scrapped the paint off when it was still wet, it didn't damage the skimcoat......
I scrapped the paint off right away yesterday night with a drywall knife, then ran a damp sponge on it, and it didn't peel any of the mud
This morning, the skimcoat still look good
If the mud was wet to the point to get that horrible texture, it should have come off with the paint as well when I was scrapping it off and would have left a big mess....but it's not the case. The skimcoat looks real good

For tonight, after sanding, should I prime or not? If yes, which one should i use?
And which paint (flat) would you recommend?
And is a 1/4" roller is OK, or should I go with a 3/8"?

 

[french_guy]

Well, after some readings, looks like a 3/8" nap roller cover might be a better choice for a flat paint on a ceiling
Still don't know if I should prime or not though
Anyway I will go back to Lowes to return that quart of SW Ovation
But I'm not sure yet which one I should get ....

 

[french_guy]

Who can confirm if I must prime or not?
I will sand again tonight (should be light sanding with #220 grit) and want to paint.....But now I'm scared to have the same issue
So having applied a skimcoat of joint compound 2 days ago, do I need to prime, or it's not mandatory?
If it is, which one should i use?
Thanks

 

[Gymschu]

I don't know if this has anything to do with it or not..........but, I know I personally do not like the DUST CONTROL joint compound. I think it's a royal pain to sand. It seems to have a lot of silica in it which gums up sandpaper but does allow the dust to fall more directly to the ground. If it does have silica in it and it wasn't completely dry when paint was applied I can see a scenario that would explain the problem (maybe?).

 

[mathmonger]

Yes. Please prime with Bulls Eye 123. 3/8 roller is perfect for primer and top coat. Don't buy paint at Lowe's. Get 40% off at a real sherwin williams store june 10 through 13.