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Hello,

We are having a hard time figuring out which insulation that meets both our needs and our wallets. We have 512 s ft of ceiling and same for floor and getting quotes for $9k and that doesnt even include thewalls.

Our situation:

1. We have a 4/14 pitch shed roof with metal
2. Had fiberglass on the ceiling with no drywall in spring and the fiberglass started to sweat and mold was around the corner
3. We get lots of snow and cold weather and 2 months out of year reaches 80's and 90's
4. IF we co decide to do foam, we will do ourselves BUT Im unsure if it is a. worth it if not doing walls b. safe c. worth it??????

We need an effective insulation that will stop the heat radiating in to the cabin, won't mold and will work without venting. (I have read venting isnt as important as they once thought.)

I have read about foam board insulation and this sounds like it could work but it says to put in exterior. Ok so we have to pull up the metal and put it under the metal. What then do we put inside on the ceiling? Nothing?

As you can see, I am not sure what direction to go so any of your expert help would be very appreciated.

All the best,

Michelle
 

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retired framer
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53,912 Posts
Hello,

We are having a hard time figuring out which insulation that meets both our needs and our wallets. We have 512 s ft of ceiling and same for floor and getting quotes for $9k and that doesnt even include thewalls.

Our situation:

1. We have a 4/14 pitch shed roof with metal
2. Had fiberglass on the ceiling with no drywall in spring and the fiberglass started to sweat and mold was around the corner
3. We get lots of snow and cold weather and 2 months out of year reaches 80's and 90's
4. IF we co decide to do foam, we will do ourselves BUT Im unsure if it is a. worth it if not doing walls b. safe c. worth it??????

We need an effective insulation that will stop the heat radiating in to the cabin, won't mold and will work without venting. (I have read venting isnt as important as they once thought.)

I have read about foam board insulation and this sounds like it could work but it says to put in exterior. Ok so we have to pull up the metal and put it under the metal. What then do we put inside on the ceiling? Nothing?

As you can see, I am not sure what direction to go so any of your expert help would be very appreciated.

All the best,

Michelle
Venting has worked for thousands of years and is always the best, anything else you read, is written by some one that wants to sell you something that is can be done but not better than venting.



So why can't it be venting, in a thousand words or less or photos. :biggrin2:
 

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Mold resistant, just the insulation itself, is anything inorganic. Foam board, fiberglass, rockwool. The mold you saw may be on the paperface for fiberglass, or around it because of too high a humidity. One reason is you left it open and living spaces create a lot of moisture. Just us breathing, example. Fireplace, any gas appliance, leak from a bath/kitchen. Metal roof esp getting hot and cooling underneath. Cold metal roof and heating underneath.

Covering the ceiling can create problems as well since the attic, space above the insulation, may not dry out quickly enough. Insulation itself does not stop heat or cold. Insulation slows it. As such, heat or cold will travel through the insulation, and combining with the outside air, allow the moisture in the air to condensate. This is esp bad when condensation happens on the insulation itself, such as fiber, since fiber is made to slow air movement so good for insulating but bad for drying out. So, can you put some vents on the wall, such as gable vents? Any venting is better than closing the space off. Once vented, your existing fiberglass insulation will dry out and don't need to be replaced. You can add foam board to the ceiling which will add r value and stop air leaking to above the ceiling space. Tape the foam board joints, seal the perimeter with canned foam and drywall.
If you add an active fan to the vent, with another vent for inlet air, even better. Fan will quickly get rid of hot air above, remove moisture and keep the air conditioning requirement lower. If fan, 30x30" access underneath for when replacement.
 
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