[Alumifab]

Hello:

Need advice.

I have some windows that need some caulk and I would like to know what you all recommend.
Do I use a different caulk for the inside vs outside or is there a universal one that's ok to use?

Home is located in Dallas, TX.

Thank you,
David

 

[joecaption]

I only use Dap 2300 inside and out.
The trick is to to use only enough to fill the gap.
Use a damp sponge to wipe off the eccess.

 

[CompleteW&D]

The DAP is fine for the inside, but outside I would only use OSI Quad or Geocel Pro Color SWD Tri Polymer sealant. http://geocelusa.com/siding-windows-a-doors/procolor-swda-tripolymer-sealant-detail.html

 

[Alumifab]

Here is an example of the window and bad caulking job that I will need to replace....

 

[CompleteW&D]

I would definitely pull all of that old caulk. I would then fill the large gap with some backer rod before running a bead of new caulk over the top of the backer rod. And I would very highly recommend the GEOCEL product.

 

[Nestor_Kelebay]

Several observations:

1. That caulking looks like it was done by a monkey.
2. That caulk looks like an acrylic caulk. Acetone will dissolve all things acrylic, including acrylic caulk. So, remove as much as you can by mechanical means, then use acetone to clean up the rest.
3. I have 66 windows in my apartment block, and I won't use any caulk on their exteriors except Kop-R-Lastic. Open your yellow pages to Caulking Equipment & Supplies and phone around to find out who sells Kop-R-Lastic near you. The advantage of Kop-R-Lastic caulk is that it has a cohesive strength that's even higher than it's adhesive strength, which means it sticks to itself even better than it sticks to common building materials. So, if you ever want or need to remove it, you just get one end started, and it pulls off cleanly like a rubber rope. But, don't get the impression that it doesn't stick well. It sticks as well as is needed for a high quality caulk. It's just vastly easier to remove if and when you want/need to remove it. I started using Kop-R-Lastic every bit of 20 years ago, and I have yet to have any of it come off without my taking it off. All of the Window and Door companies here in Winnipeg use Kop-R-Lastic on their new installations. Kop-R-Lastic is paintable and when fully cured it has about the same elasticity as silicone.

I have never used the Geocel product recommended by CompleteW&D, but I would encourage him to try Kop-R-Lastic too.

PS: IT takes several years for Kop-R-Lastic to fully cure so that you can pull it off like a rubber rope, but until it does, it's no harder to remove than any other caulk.

PS2: Kop-R-Lastic is produced in the United States by the Henry Company under license from the Koppers Company of Australia.

 

[Nestor_Kelebay]

Here's a picture of me pulling Kop-R-Lastic off of Suite 3's dining room window:

http://users.usinternet.com/nkelebay/Images/Kop-R-Lastic-1.jpg

My computer has to be on for you to have access to the image. I tried to copy and paste it in here, but the site says my post was too long; 19,000 characters, and to shorten it to 10,000 characters.

 

[macs3]

Thanks guys for answers. I have same problem

 

[Alumifab]

Glad I'm not the only one.....

 

[Ron6519]

I'd check to see why the gap occurred. That space shows something that should not be moving, is. Either the bricks are moving away from the wall(likely) or the window is moving into the house(unlikely). Brick walls that are not tied to the framing correctly can bulge out, away from the house.

 

[Alumifab]

How can I tell if the bricks have pulled away or are not tied? Do I push on the bricks?

 

[SeniorSitizen]

Sometimes pushing on the bricks will tell the story but never say always.

That pic shows a house with a little age when craftsmen took pride in their work so I would bet the brick are tied to the frame and all was plumb when built.

Check both the wall and window for plumb with a level. One or the other or both could be not plumb now and expansive soil could have been the culprit over the years.