looks like a pressure reducing valve. if it is leaking replace it
What the h--- is this and why is it leaking?
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
+1, time to rebuild it. There should be some info on the the side of it.
Far easyer to rebulid it then replace it.
Far easyer to rebulid it then replace it.
i agree or rebuild and do not by pass it or you might end up with more leaks depending on curb pressure
Looks like it in a copper line with a union nut on one side? If so replace it. Turn off the water, break the union loose, unthread from the male adapter. Reverse the order with a new PRV.
Thanks, all! Looks like I know what I'm doing this weekend!
yup, Same thing happened to me awhile back. Cost me about 30 bucks for a new one. You are lucky like I was, thank god someone put a union their and it's threaded on the other end. Should be pretty easy to change out. Don't forget the pipe dope and teflon for the threaded part. I used both.
Consider if there is a BETTER place to have it installed.
They're usually VERY close to where the water enters the house (at the valve).
Also consider adding a gauge or two.
They're usually VERY close to where the water enters the house (at the valve).
Also consider adding a gauge or two.
Do you have a boiler or forced air heating?
+1, time to rebuild it. There should be some info on the the side of it.
Far easyer to rebulid it then replace it.[/QUOTE]
really
yup, both. why?Do you have a boiler or forced air heating?
It had plenty of useful life replace it don't try to rebuild it. One little tear in a gasket or diaphragm and you get frustrated and end up buying a new one anyway.
I use both teflon tape and pipe dope. I put pipe dope on threads first, then wrap it with a little teflon tape. Just my preference. I feel it seals better so there is no leaking/dripping afterwards. Threads can be pesky sometimes, especially when you are mixing metals.
You don't have to, you can use either or, it's up to you. I use to use just teflon tape, which is fine 99 percent of the time, but I had to go back and fix a couple drips. That's when I started using pipe dope as well. I haven't had any leaks, drips or errors yet when working with threaded pipe.
Put on threaded side only - nothing on the union side that should be fine.
Let us know how it turned out for you, or if you need anymore guidance.
You don't have to, you can use either or, it's up to you. I use to use just teflon tape, which is fine 99 percent of the time, but I had to go back and fix a couple drips. That's when I started using pipe dope as well. I haven't had any leaks, drips or errors yet when working with threaded pipe.
Put on threaded side only - nothing on the union side that should be fine.
Let us know how it turned out for you, or if you need anymore guidance.
I've had a couple of watts 25AUB that I had to rebuild, because the darn connections were embedded in concrete. That style uses stainless screws to secure the top of the unit to the main body. That made it easy. Had it been the style pictured above, i'd have had the jackhammer out.
Otherwise, I disagree with joe. Usually easier to replace them, and not really that much more money.
Otherwise, I disagree with joe. Usually easier to replace them, and not really that much more money.
Jmon Teflon tape first then pipe dope other way squeezes dope out
If it squeezes it out then you used too much.. IMO- makes no difference what order:laughing:Jmon Teflon tape first then pipe dope other way squeezes dope out
Joe, great point. You're right. I've tried it both ways. Bottom line - I've never had any leaks, drips, or errors afterwards using both tape and dope. Thanks. jmon
I got the only one available from Home Depot, $67+tax... Hope it fits - it looks like it should?
http://www.homedepot.com/Plumbing-P...roductId=100140882&storeId=10051#.USe09aV2nPo
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http://www.homedepot.com/Plumbing-P...roductId=100140882&storeId=10051#.USe09aV2nPo
yea it'll work - just a little more work involved. You'll have to do some soldering or use sharkbite fitings if you don't like soldering.
The current one looks like a union on one end and threaded on the other.
If you get the exact one you are replacing, you could just unloosen the union, use the exsisting union and thread already there. Remove it, and put in new one with no soldering. Just some teflon tape and dope on that one threaded end like we said earlier.
It looks like the new one is double union on both ends. that's not what you have.
A local plumbing supply store should have what you need.
It's up to you. I'm all for the easiest way out of things.
The current one looks like a union on one end and threaded on the other.
If you get the exact one you are replacing, you could just unloosen the union, use the exsisting union and thread already there. Remove it, and put in new one with no soldering. Just some teflon tape and dope on that one threaded end like we said earlier.
It looks like the new one is double union on both ends. that's not what you have.
A local plumbing supply store should have what you need.
It's up to you. I'm all for the easiest way out of things.
Absolutely agree. I want an exact replacement; my plan was to make sure it was before doing anything else. I would have (hopefully) realized this wasn't it. I'll try another store. Thanks!yea it'll work - just a little more work involved. You'll have to do some soldering or use sharkbite fitings if you don't like soldering.
The current one looks like a union on one end and threaded on the other.
If you get the exact one you are replacing, you could just unloosen the union, use the exsisting union and thread already there. Remove it, and put in new one with no soldering. Just some teflon tape and dope on that one threaded end like we said earlier.
It looks like the new one is double union on both ends. that's not what you have.
A local plumbing supply store should have what you need.
It's up to you. I'm all for the easiest way out of things.
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
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