I have used Bear plus solid deck stain- two words- stay away! It peeled in places so bad I have to re-do the whole thing. I am looking for the best product so I can get a few years in without having to redo it. I am going with solid because that is what is already there. I need something that will last. I have looked on consumer report.org and they rated Flood Swf solid latex the best- but on all the forums I don't see mention of Flood products- I see a lot of Cabots, SW Deckscapes. Also what is down now is oil-based. Is latex the way to go or do I still use oil-based solid stain. Let me know thank you. (This is for a 20x20 deck)
what solid stain is best?
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Ugg, sorry to see this. More toubles from a BS third rate product. Stay away from Behr and stay away from Latex stains. Use an oil based stain. Latex stain is really nothing more than latex paint. It doesn't soak in like a stain would so therfore you have way too much sitting on the surface so it is basicly paint. You wouldn't put latex paint on bare wood so don't put latex stain on bare wood. Priming defeats the whole purpose of staining. Using a good quality Oil based stain will last you many years and vs paint, when you are ready to stain again, the old stain won't be peeling off like a paint would.
From looking at your picture you really need to get all that Behr "Paint" off your wall or the stain will no be able to do it's job soaking into the wood.
Matt
From looking at your picture you really need to get all that Behr "Paint" off your wall or the stain will no be able to do it's job soaking into the wood.
Matt
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No question:
Sikkens
Sikkens
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Yeah they are not real marketing savvy as far as the American market goes
They tend to be pretty specific and accurate, which Americans don't care for
Plug Sikkens into your favorite internet search engine, you should find their site
And get a local dealer
Why?....I'm not a chemist so I couldn't analyze it in that way
But truly, I've been using their products as a go-to problem area solution for years
They will want you to remove what is there
Regardless of your choice, even if they don't say so, you need to get rid of that horrid Behr
Sikkens will insist on it..the others should, but many consumers don't want to hear that so the manufacturers (marketing really) leave that part out as to not lose sales
I would remove any/all possible at whatever cost/effort and re-coat with 2 coats oil Sikkens
They tend to be pretty specific and accurate, which Americans don't care for
Plug Sikkens into your favorite internet search engine, you should find their site
And get a local dealer
Why?....I'm not a chemist so I couldn't analyze it in that way
But truly, I've been using their products as a go-to problem area solution for years
They will want you to remove what is there
Regardless of your choice, even if they don't say so, you need to get rid of that horrid Behr
Sikkens will insist on it..the others should, but many consumers don't want to hear that so the manufacturers (marketing really) leave that part out as to not lose sales
I would remove any/all possible at whatever cost/effort and re-coat with 2 coats oil Sikkens
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Ya Sikkens is good stuff, and they have a boat load of colors to choose from so you should be able to find the right brown.
How many years does the Sikkens last before the deck has to be re-sealed?
I used the 'One-Time-Wood' sealer ( www.onetimewood.com) on my decks in the spring of 2007. It's gauranteed to last 7 years. Looking at it today, I'm not so sure it's going to make it through this spring. It sure isn't looking very good.
I used the 'One-Time-Wood' sealer ( www.onetimewood.com) on my decks in the spring of 2007. It's gauranteed to last 7 years. Looking at it today, I'm not so sure it's going to make it through this spring. It sure isn't looking very good.
The sad thing is that I did prep the deck to the tee that behr recommends on the label. I used all Behr prep products. I sanded the deck, cleaned all dust with their prep cleaner, waited four days to dry completly, and did two coats with Behr Deck plus solid latex stain. I used a **** load of stain. It says one gallon will coat 200-400 sq. ft. but it didn't cover that great. I used a lot more than two gallons. So in a way you buy a cheep can of stain, but end up spending more because it doesn't go on great, so you are buying more cans of stain.
Good news though, I called Behr and complained. They were fighting the claim saying I used too much stain. Just for you to know, if you call to complain, tell them you did everything it told you on the label and that you used the exact amount it told you- because if you don't, they will fight it saying you did it wrong-there for it is your fault. I asked for $300.00 for all the cans of paint, time, supplies, sander, and prep solutions. I have to send in pictures of the can on the deck, pics of the damage, pics of the whole deck, and the upc off of a can. It takes three weeks to process. After complaining how bad of a product it is, they wanted to send a pro out to do my deck with the same stuff I was complaining about. Anyone going through this good luck. My advise, get the money and not another application of a ****ty product!!!! save your upc and or receipt!!!
give me the best brands
anyone that has a pick of their best solid 0il based stain for outdoor deck let me know. Just give me the brand name and or company. Would love to get as many opinions as possible. Thank you to all that reply. I am a little obsessed with this considering all the time and money I have gone through the last two years staining my deck- only to be exactly the same place I was at the beginning (a horrible looking deck-thanks Be hr) I appreciate all comments to help me have a stain job that will last me more than a year. So I can spend weeks during the spring doing something else than stripping and staining my deck!!! Hopefully I can save someone from the same headache
anyone that has a pick of their best solid 0il based stain for outdoor deck let me know. Just give me the brand name and or company. Would love to get as many opinions as possible. Thank you to all that reply. I am a little obsessed with this considering all the time and money I have gone through the last two years staining my deck- only to be exactly the same place I was at the beginning (a horrible looking deck-thanks Be hr) I appreciate all comments to help me have a stain job that will last me more than a year. So I can spend weeks during the spring doing something else than stripping and staining my deck!!! Hopefully I can save someone from the same headache
sikkens is absolutely great stuff - expensive but cheaper in the long run if you consider labor. Ben Moore makes a great solid deck stain as well - you might also want to look at a product by MAD DOG Primer called deck fix which would be applied prior to putting a solid body deck stain down.
Mad dog? What is it, a primer? What does it do help the solid stain add-hear better? I herd that primer just seals the wood too much where it can't breath, is that true. Let me know the best thing to prep with. I know Prep. is just as important as the stain itself. Love to hear any suggestions of prep. products. prep. steps, and of course type of stain. Man I am really starting to lean towards going with sikkens do to all the comments on it. Is it that good? I am not a painter so any suggestions, tricks, etc. is highly appreciated. Want to get going on the deck soon because I can't bear (behr) ha ha to see it in the condition it is in. Keep tracking hunks of stain into the house. Just want to start over right and next spring/summer have a extra two weeks to do something else than stain a deck. Thanks guys.
Which Sikkens product?
Looked at Sikkens site. It seems like I have two choices for a solid stain. Rubbol Solid DEK or Rubbol DEK Not sure what the difference is between the two. If you know about Sikken products let me know.
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Rubbol DEK is their classic oil based product. It's been the go to product for a long time. Rubbol Solid DEK is their new acrylic version. It's only been out since this February. I haven't sold any yet and I can't comment on it's performance at this point. I'd say go with the tried and true oil product until there is a some feedback on the new product.
Is there an advantage of the new?
Thanks I agree to go with what has worked. What is the difference of the two and what are they saying is the advantage of the new one? Is the old one the same formula as it was? Because sometimes they can change the formula and keep the same name. Also was wondering why consumer report ranks sikkens pretty low. They recommend Olympic stain. It gets confusing of what to believe and who to believe.
Thanks I agree to go with what has worked. What is the difference of the two and what are they saying is the advantage of the new one? Is the old one the same formula as it was? Because sometimes they can change the formula and keep the same name. Also was wondering why consumer report ranks sikkens pretty low. They recommend Olympic stain. It gets confusing of what to believe and who to believe.
I too am considering a solid stain for my deck (including the highly tauted 'Sikkens Rubbol DEK' / oil-based stain), though a part of me wants to maintain the 'wood grain' appearance that we currently have, though currently weathered. Priorities to me are low maintenance and longevity... which points me toward the 'solid stain', though the prospect of eventual peeling or flaking is a turn-off.
My specific questions... assuming appropriate 'preparation' is done:
1) Does a good solid stain typically 'outlast' an equally good semi-transparent stain'?
2) Is it so that oil-based stains (specifically solid stains) 'last longer' than water based stains?
3) Even if 'maintained' decently, is it inevitable that a solid stain will eventually peel or flake?
4) What are the main disadvantages of a solid (oil-based) stain?
I'm hoping there's a forum member who has broad enough experience on the subject (far more than I do) to help me out. Thanks!
My specific questions... assuming appropriate 'preparation' is done:
1) Does a good solid stain typically 'outlast' an equally good semi-transparent stain'?
2) Is it so that oil-based stains (specifically solid stains) 'last longer' than water based stains?
3) Even if 'maintained' decently, is it inevitable that a solid stain will eventually peel or flake?
4) What are the main disadvantages of a solid (oil-based) stain?
I'm hoping there's a forum member who has broad enough experience on the subject (far more than I do) to help me out. Thanks!
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Sikkens makes high quality automotive paint. Good reputation in that field.
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