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AHH, SPANS!!!
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I have a 24" and a 32" door I want to use together. What size rough opening should I have for them?
Hanging them as french doors, not prehung.
measure the exact width of the doors. add 1 1/2" to each side to allow for jamb and space between jamb and framing and space between both doors. about a 59" RO for your situation
 

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measure the exact width of the doors. add 1 1/2" to each side to allow for jamb and space between jamb and framing and space between both doors. about a 59" RO for your situation

3" is an awful lot of space to allow for shimming thats going to take a lot of shims.. typically 2 " will work if the r.o is perfectly square and level.. if not 2 1/2" is all thats needed
 

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But if putting together will look wired because of different sizes might be easier just to buy a double prehung. Especially cause u would prob have to mortise for hinges . If they r old doors off of jambs and not per hung anymore they would have to be differing hinge sides to use and would need an astragal
 

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Toller said he is hanging them as pocket doors. With pocket doors the rough opening is twice the width of the doors plus 1" on each side, 114". The header will be 114" plus double jacks, total of 120". I usually put a stop up against each inside jack, frame my enclosing walls and trim the pocket with 3/4". Toller, are you using a pocket door track kit? Do you have a photo?
 

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AHH, SPANS!!!
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Toller said he is hanging them as pocket doors. With pocket doors the rough opening is twice the width of the doors plus 1" on each side, 114". The header will be 114" plus double jacks, total of 120". I usually put a stop up against each inside jack, frame my enclosing walls and trim the pocket with 3/4". Toller, are you using a pocket door track kit? Do you have a photo?

first post reads french doors actually

So I have had recommendation from 59 to 58.25. Does 58.5 seem okay?
depends on jamb thickness and if you are building the RO yourself making it Plumb/Level etc... The RO for a 3/4" door frame with standard stop in a plumb-level opening should need- say 1/4" for close tolerances plus 3/4"(jamb), 3/16 (distance between door to jamb) so that is right at 1 3/16" added from the side of the door to the framing in the wall. do that twice plus add space between the two doors. that is close tolerances but if you are building it your self then is possible no doubt :yes:.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If its not too expensive I would still do 2 same size doors ps don't forget to paint 4 sides of doors before installing
I may live to regret it, but the 24" door is intended to remain shut, opening only for projects too big to get out a 32" door. Wall space will be at a premium, so I hate to waste 8" on a 32" door. I can always change to two 28" doors...
 
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