[lionscourt]

Making a replica of these cabinets. Any idea about the size of the bit (roundover) for the edge.
These cabs are a fairly common size/type here.

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[ddawg16]

Here is a good place to start

http://www.rockler.com/power-tool-accessories/router-bits

 

[oh'mike]

Those are 1950s/1960s vintage---my guess ,from the profile, is that those were beveled with a table saw--then rounded slightly using a sander--

Matching that rounded bevel with a router might be difficult--if you are going for a perfect match.

 

[1acre]

you could also try some type of large radius roundover, such as 1.25". problem is you'll have to make sure there is a surface to put the bearing against. maybe a 22.5 or 15 deg chamfer afterwards?

 

[woodworkbykirk]

it could be either a roundover or a chamfer.. more than likely 1/4" either way its hard to tell from years of paint buildup as it can distort the profile

 

[Canarywood1]

I'd say either a 1/2 or 3/4 inch radius round over should do the trick.

Just raise or lower the bit to achieve what you need.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_flush.html

 

[BigJim]

Looks like a rabbeted cabinet door, you need to do the round over first, then rabbet the door with a table saw, the round over will prevent the use of a hand held router, but you could use a router table to make the rabbet.

Just reread your post, looks like Canarywood1 answered your question.

 

[lionscourt]

1...better table saw blade...60+teeth
2...zero clearance inserts
3...1/2inch router bits designed to minimize tear out...especially on the rabbit
4...better wood for drawer fronts.
5...,..........

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[Yodaman]

Could be a bevel and sanded and many layers of paint or a portion of a large round over bit as suggested above. Assuming the later, a router table with a fence is key. This will allow you round the edge without making either side of the radius tangent to a edge. By using the depth control on the router and fence position you can position the radius on the edge to mimic the sample.
If you try to do it with a free hand router, a round over bit and bearing follower, the radius will turn out tangent to the edge.

 

[TimPa]

obviously the rabbet is half the thickness of the 3/4" door, or 3/8". this leaves 3/8" thick for the lip. it is not a complete round-over, so its not 3/8" radius. trying to sand a consistent edge is not recommended.

agree with canarywood, it appears the profile was achieved by using a portion of a larger radius round-over bit, and it is best done on a router table.

 

[lionscourt]

Yepp....but my most pressing need is to update both my router bit...the mortising one (I have router table and fence btw) and my table saw blade. Ive learned that certain router blades reduce tearout by their design. Not so much the roundover bit but the rabbet bit. My table saw blade has far too few teeth as well so moving up to a 60 or 80 tooth saw blade for these applications.

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[TimPa]

fwiw, the table saw does a great job of slicing away the rabbet with two cuts. the router has to chip away all of the material, works harder in my opinion.

 

[lionscourt]

Modifications so far....

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[lionscourt]

I'm wondering about the ripple effect along the edge from using the table saw. It seems to make circular motions along the edge of the piece and I wanted to level it out as much as possible in the easiest manner possible.

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[lionscourt]

Last pic is original cabs refinished and painted...first couple pics is cabs I built to match.

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[Yodaman]

nice job, looks good