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· Registered
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey y'all. Recently, I decided to remodel the bathroom in my 1950's house. The room has never been touched, that I can tell. I demo'ed down to the studs and subfloor. I should mention that this is my 1st attempt at such a project. I also have a neighbor that has a good bit of remodeling experience.

The issue that I'm having is this. I used 1/2" green board( actually purple) all around the room. The original plan was to install Hardi-board over the green in the tub area. Tile was to be over that. Now I have just read(on this forum) that it's a bad idea to put Hardi on drywall, due to the wicking nature of Hardi. I also did not install any vapor barrier behind the green board.

It seems to me that I have a couple of options....
1. Pull out the green board in the shower. Replace with a vapor barrier and 1/2 " Hardi- board. Then tile over.

2. Leave the green board. Prime it and buy one of the molded surrounds that will not be water permeable.

I'd rather have a tile surround, but $ is definitely a consideration. I'm also very anxious about ripping out all the work i've already done.

Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, Bud. I looked into the Kerdi mat, and I'm worried that I may not have the experience to get it up correctly. There seem to be a lot of joints to deal with. Like I said, this is my 1st project. I think I'm going to bite the bullet and pull out the drywall, and replace with Hardi- board and redguard. I am planning to only replace the tiled portion ( just below the shower head). I don't want to go to the ceiling because I spent a lot of time kidding the wall/ceiling joint, and I really don't want to do it again.

That being said....
1- where should I make the cut in the drywall? I'm guessing it should be above the tile. How far above should I go, if at all?

2- is it correct to use thinset and fiberglass tape for the joint between Hardi and drywall? Can thinset be sanded and painted?

3- what kind of screws should I be using for Hardi board? Can I use the same 1 1/4" drywall screws or is there something special out there. Seems like I read something about stainless or galvanized screws. I've never seen them at HD or Lowes, but I haven't really looked.
 

· Tileguy
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10,718 Posts
1- where should I make the cut in the drywall? I'm guessing it should be above the tile. How far above should I go, if at all?
I would position the juncture below the tile termination, this way the finish doesn't have to be real pretty because tile will cover it.

2- is it correct to use thinset and fiberglass tape for the joint between Hardi and drywall? Can thinset be sanded and painted?
The juncture can be taped and filled with thinset. Any thinset that is above the top of the tile can then be filled with joint compound and sanded smooth to fill the grainy thinset. Just be sure to use a paint that is intended for such locations.:) The tape is alkali-resistant tape, not regular drywall tape.:)

3- what kind of screws should I be using for Hardi board? Can I use the same 1 1/4" drywall screws or is there something special out there. Seems like I read something about stainless or galvanized screws. I've never seen them at HD or Lowes, but I haven't really looked.
The screws are a specially coated screws with dual hi/lo threads and self-setting heads. They may be in the tile department. I find them with all the other screws where they are labelled (oddly enough) "Cement Board Screws". Go figure.:)
 

· Retired Moderator
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If you have the joint at or above the shower head it will never get wet enough to worry about damaging the green board.

If you use RedGuard also you are doubly safe.
 
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