What is this kind of sealant?

1988 Views 22 Replies 7 Participants Last post by SARG, Feb 1, 2021

VAer

Discussion Starter · Jun 13, 2020

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1nhvlgYXddoAH4hESC0LBwy0wRuqFI2Xo?usp=sharing

What is this kind of sealant? Could anyone provide some product link? Do I need to get rid of old one before applying new one?

Thanks.

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

Colbyt

· #2 · Jun 13, 2020

I imagine it is https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Sil...-Masonry-Sealant-12-Pack-7079808675/205030334

I'm sure they sell single tubes of some brand. I am sure Lowes, Amazon and most hardware stores have a version also.

I would remove as musv of the old as possible for a neater finished look and better adhesion.

VAer

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jun 13, 2020

Colbyt said:
I imagine it is https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Sil...-Masonry-Sealant-12-Pack-7079808675/205030334

I'm sure they sell single tubes of some brand. I am sure Lowes, Amazon and most hardware stores have a version also.

I would remove as musv of the old as possible for a neater finished look and better adhesion.

Thank you. Is it important to seal it? Or just leave as it is. Rain may go inside.

Colbyt

· #4 · Jun 13, 2020

It looks like the slab has settled in that corner by as much as 1.5". Water getting under the slab may accelerate the process of settling. water may enter there and find a path to your basement. It does look like the foundation was sealed but cracks may develop.

If it continues to settle eventually water will collect there.

If it was mine and I was not planning on replacement I would dig all that crap out, pipe in some mortar to fill the bulk of the void and then caulk what is left.

Reactions: 2

VAer

Discussion Starter · #5 · Jun 13, 2020 (Edited)

Colbyt said:
It looks like the slab has settled in that corner by as much as 1.5". Water getting under the slab may accelerate the process of settling. water may enter there and find a path to your basement. It does look like the foundation was sealed but cracks may develop.

If it continues to settle eventually water will collect there.

If it was mine and I was not planning on replacement I would dig all that crap out, pipe in some mortar to fill the bulk of the void and then caulk what is left.

I just added a few photos. Not really, it has around 2 feet roof over it, and it has a little slope going outward.

It seems the slab goes down a lot, but from the other side, the slab does not appear to go down a lot, maybe it is just like this?

It is big gap, and it requires a lot of sealant. Can I use "Pre-Caulking Filler Rope Backer Rod Roll" instead of filling in mortor?

Thanks.

ClarenceBauer

· #6 · Jun 13, 2020

Are there any weep holes in that brick wall or are they covered?

XSleeper

· #7 · Jun 13, 2020

I would just interject that there are probably better sealants than the Dap product.

Cleaning out the old is always advisable. An oscillating multitool with a scraper blade works really well and is much more fun than a hammer and cold chisel.

The joint must be clean and free of dirt. If there is a gap below (bottomless crack) and you have the room, you should fill the joint with a foam backer rod. This helps ensure the joint can flex and is only adhered to 2 surfaces.

I would recommend Loctite SL10 or SL20 depending on whether or not the surface is level (where you can use self levelling sealant) or not. Sikaflex also makes good concrete sealants as does Sonneborn / BASF. (NP1).

VAer

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jun 13, 2020

ClarenceBauer said:
Are there any weep holes in that brick wall or are they covered?

I don't have much knowledge about house structure, not sure what it means "weep hole" "covered".

Thanks.

VAer

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jun 13, 2020 (Edited)

XSleeper said:
I would just interject that there are probably better sealants than the Dap product.

Cleaning out the old is always advisable. An oscillating multitool with a scraper blade works really well and is much more fun than a hammer and cold chisel.

The joint must be clean and free of dirt. If there is a gap below (bottomless crack) and you have the room, you should fill the joint with a foam backer rod. This helps ensure the joint can flex and is only adhered to 2 surfaces.

I would recommend Loctite SL10 or SL20 depending on whether or not the surface is level (where you can use self levelling sealant) or not. Sikaflex also makes good concrete sealants as does Sonneborn / BASF. (NP1).

From the photo, you can see it is not level, the sealant should go to the side (as attached photo). A big gap, not sure if sealant can hold.

What does self-leveling mean? Does it only work for horizontal gap?

https://www.amazon.com/SIKA-CORPORATION-91065-Sealant-10-Ounce/dp/B000RUKZSA/

See less See more

XSleeper

· #10 · Jun 13, 2020

Yes, it only works with horizontal gaps. If the crack is on a slope, like where the sidewalk meets the house you can still use it, but you need to be very careful not to overfill the horizontal gap or it will run out and ooze down the slope.

The same could be said for cracks on a driveway for example. If it has too much slope, it will all run downhill just like water would. That makes a mess, so if you use self leveling you need to know its limitations.

VAer

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jun 13, 2020 (Edited)

XSleeper said:
Yes, it only works with horizontal gaps. If the crack is on a slope, like where the sidewalk meets the house you can still use it, but you need to be very careful not to overfill the horizontal gap or it will run out and ooze down the slope.

The same could be said for cracks on a driveway for example. If it has too much slope, it will all run downhill just like water would. That makes a mess, so if you use self leveling you need to know its limitations.

How fast can it run down? Can I use plastic scraper to push it back against wall? Or I use some news paper if it runs down. There are also so many different choices, which one is better: https://www.homedepot.com/s/Sikaflex?NCNI-5

How about this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sikaflex-10-1-oz-Crack-Flex-Concrete-Sealant-7116110/300934565

Or another other good brand recommendation?

Thanks.

XSleeper

· #12 · Jun 13, 2020

It slowly oozes, like molasses. Best thing to use is clean silica sand, if you need to make a dam for it, you just sprinkle sand along the edges to contain it.

Sikaflex is a good trusted brand.

XSleeper

· #13 · Jun 13, 2020

One thing I will add is that for large, lengthy cracks you might want to buy the bigger quart tubes, and the bigger quart caulking gun to go with it.

You will spend a fortune if you buy the little 10 oz. tubes.

VAer

Discussion Starter · #14 · Jun 13, 2020

XSleeper said:
It slowly oozes, like molasses. Best thing to use is clean silica sand, if you need to make a dam for it, you just sprinkle sand along the edges to contain it.

Sikaflex is a good trusted brand.

I don't know why you mention "sand", it is vertical gap, about 1" gap, we talk about using Pre-Caulking Filler Rope Backer Rod Roll and sealant only, what is the purpose of "sand" used here?

Thanks.

VAer

Discussion Starter · #15 · Jun 13, 2020

XSleeper said:
One thing I will add is that for large, lengthy cracks you might want to buy the bigger quart tubes, and the bigger quart caulking gun to go with it.

You will spend a fortune if you buy the little 10 oz. tubes.

Not really, only 4-5 feet with big gap, then using Rope Backer Rod Roll can save a lot of caulk, most part (along the wall) is small gap.

XSleeper

· #16 · Jun 13, 2020

Post 10. Self leveling ONLY WORKS IN HORIZONTAL GAPS. That is what we were talking about, and that is where you would use sand... around the edges of a crack, anywhere you dont want self leveling to run... you use the sand to contain the sealant to the crack only.

VAer

Discussion Starter · #17 · Jun 13, 2020

XSleeper said:
Post 10. Self leveling ONLY WORKS IN HORIZONTAL GAPS. That is what we were talking about, and that is where you would use sand... around the edges of a crack, anywhere you dont want self leveling to run... you use the sand to contain the sealant to the crack only.

How about this one? When it dries, the surface is soft or hard? I prefer something soft (such as bathtub sealant). The current gray one in the photo is also soft.

Thanks.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sikaflex-10-1-oz-Crack-Flex-Concrete-Sealant-7116110/300934565

XSleeper

· #18 · Jun 13, 2020

Looks good. Have a great time.

Colbyt

· #19 · Jun 13, 2020

Simply said. Sand, foam or mortar are used to fill the bulk of the void and then you seal it with whatever caulk you buy.

VAer

Discussion Starter · #20 · Jun 13, 2020

Colbyt said:
Simply said. Sand, foam or mortar are used to fill the bulk of the void and then you seal it with whatever caulk you buy.

Thanks.

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.