[oodssoo]

Hi all,

Hope your new year has been a great one thus far.

If you have been keeping up with my other post on drain lines, I am moving right along into my next chapter of water supply lines.

The question is this:

How would you run your supply lines to:

1) Kitchen sink faucets
2) Dishwasher (hot only)
3) Washing machine
4) Lav sink faucets
5) Toilet (cold only)
6) Shower/Tub

I plan to tap off of the 3/4" (PEX) hot and cold supply lines from the water heater.

Please reference the sketch below attached. Your constructive criticisms are welcomed.

Thank you in advance.

 

[Alan]

Way too much information missing here for me to even touch this.

What kind of response are you looking for here? :huh:

 

[oodssoo]

Way too much information missing here for me to even touch this.

What kind of response are you looking for here? :huh:

Perhaps...

What would you need to know in order to write a helpful response?

Ps. I will use your input to run my water lines for my basement project. So anything can help put together a plan for me.

 

[Alan]

The only response I can give based on your information is to run a 1/2" line off of the 3/4" supply for each side of each fixture hot and cold, EXCEPT for the dishwasher which normally tees off underneath the kitchen sink cabinet. You can put your tee inside the wall so you have two separate valves (one for sink one for dishwasher)

Is this what you're asking?

 

[oodssoo]

The only response I can give based on your information is to run a 1/2" line off of the 3/4" supply for each side of each fixture hot and cold, EXCEPT for the dishwasher which normally tees off underneath the kitchen sink cabinet. You can put your tee inside the wall so you have two separate valves (one for sink one for dishwasher)

Is this what you're asking?

That info definintely helps, yes. Thank you, Alan.

Would you suggest t-ing off of 3/4" supply line from the water heater to each of my fixtures or do you suggest using a 3/4x1/2x4 manifold to split off the supply tap?

Thank you.

 

[Alan]

Kind of depends on the distance and all that....


With a 3/4" line tree and branch system, your initial purge of cold water takes longer, but water will be close to all fixtures.

With a manifold system near the water heater, each purge will take less time due to reduced volume, but the purge will be a similar length of time for each fixture because they have to purge cold all the way from the manifold fitting.

 

[TheEplumber]

Sounds like these lines are for basement fixtures?
If the existing water lines are in close proximity you can tap into them for 1 or more fixtures- depending on the pipe sizes and existing load.
Your nonspecific questions will only get you shotgun answers.

 

[oodssoo]

Sounds like these lines are for basement fixtures?
If the existing water lines are in close proximity you can tap into them for 1 or more fixtures- depending on the pipe sizes and existing load.
Your nonspecific questions will only get you shotgun answers.

The distance from the kitchen, laundry, then to the bathroom will be about 15 ft. Branch off to fixture distance will be approximately 8 ft. And from the hot water heater, it is about 14 ft to the branches.

Sounds like these lines are for basement fixtures?
If the existing water lines are in close proximity you can tap into them for 1 or more fixtures- depending on the pipe sizes and existing load.
Your nonspecific questions will only get you shotgun answers.

Yes, in deed. They, E. This is the "next chapter" to my plumbing drain episode post...

 

[Alan]

Posting a layout would help.


:yes:

 

[oodssoo]

Posting a layout would help.


:yes:

I've attached the sketch on the original post.

 

[Alan]

Standard tub/shower only requires a 1/2" line unless you are doing some crazy body sprays and other things.


In the case of your bathroom you could actually stub a 3/4 cold up at the lavatory, and run your cold line inside of the wall if it would be easier. Same with the hot if you wanted. There's no "better way".

The way you have it drawn is fine, just make sure your 3/4 cold goes at least to the toilet, and your 3/4 hot goes to the lav. The last tees could be a 3/4 x 1/2 x 1/2.

 

[TheEplumber]

I've attached the sketch on the original post.

I'm not trying to be critical of your drawing but when you call out a tee fitting size- the run is called out first, then the branch. Some of yours are mislabeled. If you were ordering over the phone you'd get the wrong ones:furious:
A 3/4x3/4x1/2 could also be called a 3/4x1/2 tee since the run is not reducing in size and it is redundant to repeat it. Hope this helps :thumbup:

 

[oodssoo]

Standard tub/shower only requires a 1/2" line unless you are doing some crazy body sprays and other things.


In the case of your bathroom you could actually stub a 3/4 cold up at the lavatory, and run your cold line inside of the wall if it would be easier. Same with the hot if you wanted. There's no "better way".

The way you have it drawn is fine, just make sure your 3/4 cold goes at least to the toilet, and your 3/4 hot goes to the lav. The last tees could be a 3/4 x 1/2 x 1/2.

Here is the revised based on your recommendation.... I think it will work better for the hot water to be closer to the tub... less "wait time"...

 

[oodssoo]

I'm not trying to be critical of your drawing but when you call out a tee fitting size- the run is called out first, then the branch. Some of yours are mislabeled. If you were ordering over the phone you'd get the wrong ones:furious:
A 3/4x3/4x1/2 could also be called a 3/4x1/2 tee since the run is not reducing in size and it is redundant to repeat it. Hope this helps :thumbup:

It does help, E. ... Though, what I need by labling that way is to have clear map out of the lines.

(Constructive criticisms are welcomed)

 

[Alan]

The orientation of your Lav tee should be a 3/4 x 1/2 x 3/4 (remember continue 3/4" cold to the toilet)

Cold tee at toilet should be 3/4 x 1/2 x 1/2

Cold tee at washer should be 3/4 x 1/2 x 1/2

Agree with above that some of your labeling is confusing me....


Hot tee at washer is 3/4 x 1/2 x 1/2. Run a 1/2" line to kitchen and delete the dishwasher from the picture all together.

Hot tee at Lav is 3/4 x 1/2 x 1/2


Hope this helps.

 

[oodssoo]

The orientation of your Lav tee should be a 3/4 x 1/2 x 3/4 (remember continue 3/4" cold to the toilet)

Cold tee at toilet should be 3/4 x 1/2 x 1/2

Cold tee at washer should be 3/4 x 1/2 x 1/2

Agree with above that some of your labeling is confusing me....


Hot tee at washer is 3/4 x 1/2 x 1/2. Run a 1/2" line to kitchen and delete the dishwasher from the picture all together.

Hot tee at Lav is 3/4 x 1/2 x 1/2


Hope this helps.

Great advise, Alan.

I have revised the sketch to resemble more accurately the different sizes in pipe lines and tees; and remove the possibilty of any confusion in translation.

Also, as for the dishwasher, I ultimately would like to have to have that come off of the kitchen sink faucet (hot) line - so what's in this sketch version is not the "final".

Please take a look.

 

[jeffnc]

I'd take a step back and make sure you know what basic kind of configuration you want and why. Do you know?

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/item/4829/three-designs-for-pex-plumbing-systems#

Depending, you can cut out all those reducing tees by using manifolds.

 

[ddawg16]

Any chance of giving us a floor plan to show 'actua' locations of the fixtures?

Ood....if it makes you feel any better....I fell your pain.....going through it now with my 2-story addition....

A couple of notes....

On the bathtub.....see if you can run the cold to the tub 1st and then to the toilet....that way when someone flushes the toilet, because the water is passing the shower first, the pressure drop at the shower will be a lot less. The anti-scauld valve is supposed to take care of that....but...you never know.

Your cold water dwg is not quite right.....it doesn't show where the cold comes in from the street. Where is the cold supply relative to the water heater? I would be inclined to think that your best overall performance would be for the cold supply to go to the water heater with a Tee to it and then off to your field devices.

Lastly......you would be amazed at just how much water a 3/4" pipe holds. For my addition, I moved my water heater from the front of the house to the back. This new location put it about 15' closer to the majority of the fixtures. Except the kitchen is now about 35' further from the hot water heater than before. Not a biggie....washer and dryer moved to the back. But now, when you turn on the hot at the kitchen sink....it takes awhile to get hot water (yes, a small tankless is in the future plans).

Originally I had a 3/4 copper pipe from the rear to the front. I recently changed it to 1/2". Pulling numbers from memory, I believe I was originally using about .8 gallons of water before I purged the cold water out of that line and got hot water. Going down to 1/2" droped the volume over half....to about .35 gal. And not change is pressure or flow.

 

[Alan]

You still need to run a 3/4" line to the toilet.