I just got a new job (installing satellites) and one part of my job is putting lag bolts ( I think 3/8 in thick) in the roof, my old drill died on me, so I need to get a new one, but I dont want to spend my money on a junk one, could anyone recommend a drill for me, I would prefer an 18 volt one please
what is a really good or even the best drill to put lag bolts through roofs
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Welcome!
Are you really going to be doing many roof penetrations to install satellite dishes? Usually something to avoid unless absolutly nessisary due to the liability of creating water leaks. More usuall to mount under a eave, to a wall, patio railing, etc.
As for a drill, any of the quality brand names should provide good service - I am partial to my Bosch drill (lightweight or higher capacity battery options).
The drill topic has probably been discussed before in depth - suggest to do a search on the tools section of this forum.
Are you really going to be doing many roof penetrations to install satellite dishes? Usually something to avoid unless absolutly nessisary due to the liability of creating water leaks. More usuall to mount under a eave, to a wall, patio railing, etc.
As for a drill, any of the quality brand names should provide good service - I am partial to my Bosch drill (lightweight or higher capacity battery options).
The drill topic has probably been discussed before in depth - suggest to do a search on the tools section of this forum.
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Cab you send me a list of all the houses you service so I can send them my information and follow behind you fixing all the leaks you cause.
As a roofing contractor I must say I repair at least a dozen leaky satellite dishes a year. Around this area the installers go right for the roof.
As a roofing contractor I must say I repair at least a dozen leaky satellite dishes a year. Around this area the installers go right for the roof.
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I install solar pv systems on alot of roofs and I use the dewalt 18 volt impact driver and works great. you can get the dewalt drill and impact gun in a kit together. I would advise that you use a uv based silicone down in the penetrations before you lag them in and over the top of lag when your done and to maybe seal around the base of the satelite. I would recommend Vulkem 116 or clear solar seal silicone. pitch pockets are idea for a flat roof installation and will insure no leaks. and additionally you should use stainless steel lag bolts to avoid rust and corrosion. Roofers will always give you a hard time about screwing through there roof but these steps will assure a good seal.
For large heavy duty roofing jobs that require driving lags you will need an impact driver. Many brands will get the job done. As far as which drill is the best, that all depends on personal opinion.
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Keep in mind that you are driving 3/8 lag bolts that aren't that long. The roof sheathing itself or even the trusses (2x4's) aren't that thick.
For sure, you don't want to bring two power tools up there, a drill and an impact driver.
I would recommend just an 12V drill (or hammer drill) that comes with a Lithium Ion battery. Using that drill, you can attach drill bits to predrill the hole, and then put in a driver bit to install the lag bolt.
I have a heavy duty Milwaukee 18V hammer drill, but it's a bit heavy. Working on a ladder/roof, look for something light.
Consider something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-241...JXKM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1319767941&sr=8-1
For sure, you don't want to bring two power tools up there, a drill and an impact driver.
I would recommend just an 12V drill (or hammer drill) that comes with a Lithium Ion battery. Using that drill, you can attach drill bits to predrill the hole, and then put in a driver bit to install the lag bolt.
I have a heavy duty Milwaukee 18V hammer drill, but it's a bit heavy. Working on a ladder/roof, look for something light.
Consider something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-241...JXKM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1319767941&sr=8-1
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I always inform every customer to not allow these dishes to be installed in that manor.
Try passing the word along that mounts are available that are installed under the shingles rather than thru them.
As far as power tools,,I prefer Dewalt and Makita,,,but that is just me..
Try passing the word along that mounts are available that are installed under the shingles rather than thru them.
As far as power tools,,I prefer Dewalt and Makita,,,but that is just me..
Why would you have to pre-drill for lags?
I agree with using the mounts, although I haven't seen any of the dishes leak if they are installed tight to the roof. Usually the problem is that the dish installer slaps a bunch of tar on top of the lags. It just creates more problems.
I have two dishes on my roof and an antenna. 4/12 pitch and they have been up there for 10 years. No sealant on any of the lags. Not a drip in the attic.
I agree with using the mounts, although I haven't seen any of the dishes leak if they are installed tight to the roof. Usually the problem is that the dish installer slaps a bunch of tar on top of the lags. It just creates more problems.
I have two dishes on my roof and an antenna. 4/12 pitch and they have been up there for 10 years. No sealant on any of the lags. Not a drip in the attic.
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Fastening the dish to the roof is one of those situations in which it's an acceptable with a high percentage of bad installs 'workmanship'.
The number one problem I have found (I have done numerous repairs like Grumpy) is the installer over driving and leaving stripped/nearly stripped out bolts that eventually back out and allow moisture in.
As far as the drill, a good hammer drill of what ever brand name you like best.
The number one problem I have found (I have done numerous repairs like Grumpy) is the installer over driving and leaving stripped/nearly stripped out bolts that eventually back out and allow moisture in.
As far as the drill, a good hammer drill of what ever brand name you like best.
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How can bolts be stripped when you are driving into wood?
If you're driving into wood, worse case is you eat into the wood and lose grip.
Probably because dish installers are all sub contractors and they probably pre-drilled them. :laughing:
Most are lucky if they hit a rafter on one lag. Most of the other 5 lags are just in 1/2" sheathing.
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Over tightening the screws is what I was talking about, thus stripping the grip not the bolt itself.
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There you go, thanks for the picture. Though I don’t think it was designed by a roofer. The metal seems thick for the application where sheet spring steel would hold the shape yet be much thinner to stop water from blowing in the side cracks once the shingle lays back down. You could caulk the big, tapered side gaps but it may stop any water from getting out leaking higher up.
They could have taper ground the perimeter edges of the metal to get the shingle to lay flat, even weld a raised bead (as on sides of static vents) to lift the shingle there to prevent capillary wicking under the shingle bottom edge with all the water running down the dish legs following the bent plate. Or simply install the plate bracket 1” farther down the roof to get the shingle bottom edge away from the water path wicking from above, add a spot of cement to hold it.
A roofer would know you don’t want a sharp edge on the higher metal to cut your shingle if stepped on after being warmed by the sun for a few hours. I’ve walked on shingles, felt something underfoot, only to find under the exposed shingle – a nail or staple (no longer legal here) that was insufficiently driven, or at an angle to cut a hole in the top shingle now. A tapered edge on the plate would solve this as well as any side gaps.
The #8 or so, screw used in the application may work in to the rafter/truss, but not very thick screw threads to grab OSB or plywood sheathing when not in to solid wood. They should recess or countersink the holes for a flush mount larger diameter screw/lag head—same reason as above. A rubber washer under the head or caulking on top is cheap insurance against leaks there.
I haven’t looked at other plates but I hope they are designed better than this one. The lower end is covered by the shingles forcing water under them.........I would think it should be on top the shingle there.
Not blaming you for a generic picture…..just some thoughts.
Gary
They could have taper ground the perimeter edges of the metal to get the shingle to lay flat, even weld a raised bead (as on sides of static vents) to lift the shingle there to prevent capillary wicking under the shingle bottom edge with all the water running down the dish legs following the bent plate. Or simply install the plate bracket 1” farther down the roof to get the shingle bottom edge away from the water path wicking from above, add a spot of cement to hold it.
A roofer would know you don’t want a sharp edge on the higher metal to cut your shingle if stepped on after being warmed by the sun for a few hours. I’ve walked on shingles, felt something underfoot, only to find under the exposed shingle – a nail or staple (no longer legal here) that was insufficiently driven, or at an angle to cut a hole in the top shingle now. A tapered edge on the plate would solve this as well as any side gaps.
The #8 or so, screw used in the application may work in to the rafter/truss, but not very thick screw threads to grab OSB or plywood sheathing when not in to solid wood. They should recess or countersink the holes for a flush mount larger diameter screw/lag head—same reason as above. A rubber washer under the head or caulking on top is cheap insurance against leaks there.
I haven’t looked at other plates but I hope they are designed better than this one. The lower end is covered by the shingles forcing water under them.........I would think it should be on top the shingle there.
Not blaming you for a generic picture…..just some thoughts.
Gary
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