[jeckel7234]

Hi all,

I wanted to upgrade to a WiFi thermostat, so I went out and bought the Honeywell RTH9580WF from Lowes. The first unit I bought popped up a warning saying the wifi radio doesn't work and to replace the unit. So I went back to Lowes and got a second unit.

My original thermostat was also a Honeywell and I have a heat pump system. The wiring was all labeled identical between the two thermostats and the setup on the new thermostat just asked if certain wires were installed so I'm positive I didn't wire anything wrong.

Everything booted up fine, connected to wifi just fine and setup went smoothly. I turned the AC on and I feel neutral air, that eventually turns into hot air. I walked out and my fan was spinning on the AC but the compressor was warm, and the lines running to the thermostat were not cold.

I don't want to think I bought 2 bad units from Lowes in a row but it is possible. Does anyone have any thoughts on what could have caused the compressor to not kick on? I reinstalled my old thermostat and everything works again.


Thanks,
-Drew

 

[roughneck]

You either programmed or wired it wrong. Post a picture of the wiring. What position did you set the reversing valve to?

 

[rjniles]

Reversing valve is wired wrong or programmed wrong. Most programmable T-stats let you specify how the valve operates.

 

[jeckel7234]

Okay, so i ended up returning this second unit. I would have tried a third but they were sold out. I attempted a few other setups before returning this last one.

I've attached links to pictures of how my old thermostat was wired and the most recent way i had it wired. I work in the same building as a guy that has his own side HVAC business so I've been adjusting what ive been doing via his recommendations. What I had originally done was exactly what is in the new thermostat pictures except I had the brown wire (seen in old pics) installed into the Y2 port. The guy i work with I believe said the brown wire was for emergency heat but in my case the white wire took the place of the brown wire. He suggested that i cut the brown wire short and just ignore. Since I no longer had a wire in Y2, I changed answers during the setup procedure of the new thermostat. I also adjusted the stetting for the reverse valve several different times with no avail.


I was hopeful this method would work but it didnt. With cool mode on it was blowing out hot air, so I changed it over to heat mode, and it didn't really blow out hot air but it definitely wasnt cold. I walked outside and the refrigerant lines running to the compressor were warm. That was the last step so I installed my old thermostat and returned the unit with the intent to give one more shot.

Old Thermostat
https://goo.gl/photos/kHpSHqsMFVeBme4u8

https://goo.gl/photos/7REaP9jkZYBQU7NC7


New Thermostat
https://goo.gl/photos/VDycV8VEpKtwpqYr8

https://goo.gl/photos/b9E6qCjimkTUv3Jf6

 

[BayouRunner]

Different heat pumps have different wiring. Your new thermostat should have a way to setup whether your reversing valve is to be engaged for cooling or not. That would be the o&b connection. Find that program sequence and it should work for you. Also your heat strips can be engaged in a couple of different ways as well. It could be wired to come on if your temperature differential is say more than two degrees or it could just be set up as emergency heat only. Wish I could
Explain it better but your stat should work. Just with heat pumps the wiring is not standard like a conventional heat/ac system

 

[beenthere]

The white wire doesn't take teh place of teh brown wire. The white wire is aux heat, and the brown is emergency heat. By connecting the brown wire to Y2, when the thermostat called for second stage cooling. It brought on the emergency heat. So you ended up heating the air you had just cooled.

What brand is your heat pump. You may not have/had the stat set up right for the heat pump's reversing valve.