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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
i am relocating that piping, up next to the wall. what i am looking for info on = is what do i need to do to connect the new pvc to the metal(cast or steel ?) pipe. i believe that it is somehow soldered together. and i need to get it apart.

on a side question. is buried pvc code ?
 

· flipping slumlord
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what do i need to do to connect the new pvc to the metal
An adaptor. The requirements will vary by area.

i need to get it apart.
There are many ways to do that.
Some easier than others and some a bloody mess.

is buried pvc code ?
When done correctly.

Do you have a permit now?
Do you plan to have the work inspected?
 

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you are relocating what is there to be against wall is what i understand. if so can you see the 90 on the old cast iron where it turns to go horizontal
 

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Going to have to cut out more concrete intil you back to a straight pipe to connect a hubless connector to and redo that old cast clean out with PVC..
 

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can you see the 90 on the old cast iron where it turns to go horizontal

Exactly your going to take out more concrete. Get to where the pipe goes straight underground. Once you get there. Everything can be replaced with pvc including red pipe. Easiest way to cut would be with the wrap around chain tool . I can't think what this tool is called. You can connect pvc with a boot and clamps to old pipe underground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ok. see the clean out Y, that has to go. the clean out is connected to the main pipe at a 45deg angle. the main pipe goes horizontal under the floor.
iirc, someone said the the pipes are "leaded" together, correct ? if so, could i heat with a oxy/ac torch to loosen/remove it ?

no, i am not getting a permit for this. one reason is that, after digging that hole, i found that i probably(could be thicker under other parts of the floor) don't have as thick a slab as i thought. so it would be somewhat easy to bust it all out. then have a new floor poured. after replacing all of the under slab plumbing. this would give me a 7' ceiling, 6'4" now. i am going to get estimates for having the slab poured.
 

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You'll need to expose the 45 at the stack base. There, you'll find its joined to the main with a lead&oakum joint. I usually try to drill the lead out with a small drill bit or snap the pipe as mentioned earlier. By saving the hub you can use a rubber "doughnut" like the one you already have in the vertical stack.
Once you extend the pvc to the wall- use a long sweep 90 or two 45's to turn vertical- you also need a clean out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You'll need to expose the 45 at the stack base.

There, you'll find its joined to the main with a lead&oakum joint. I usually try to drill the lead out with a small drill bit or snap the pipe as mentioned earlier. By saving the hub you can use a rubber "doughnut" like the one you already have in the vertical stack.

Once you extend the pvc to the wall- use a long sweep 90 or two 45's to turn vertical- you also need a clean out there.
it already is, just can't tell in the pic because of the dirt.

drilling, is this a reasonable way to do it ? i mean = does it take forever ?
i don't want to "snap" it. i am afraid that that may break a perhaps already fragile pipe.

thanx for the tips
 

· flipping slumlord
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it already is, just can't tell in the pic because of the dirt.

drilling, is this a reasonable way to do it ?
i mean = does it take forever ?i don't want to "snap" it.
i am afraid that that may break a perhaps already fragile pipe.
After you cut out 8 or 10 sq feet of concrete and remove the dirt around the pipe so where you'll be making the cut is easy to get to...
and you have a hub/adaptor in your hand to put it all together again with...
then decide how finicky you want to be with the cutting.
 

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If you dont want to snap it, you could use an angle grinder with a cut off wheel. I know you said you want to save the hub and use a donut. I've found the donuts and the quicktite gaskets to be more of a PIA than I want to deal with. Personally, I'd rather get rid of the hub and use a fernco, but to each their own. Either way is fine. Just remember, you dont just have the lead to deal with, there is also oakum in the hub and it is tightly caulked in there. You can drill out the lead then work a screwdriver into the hub and get the oakum out a few strands at a time or you might get lucky, have it tangle itself on your drill bit and be able to yank big pieces of it out. Good luck!
 

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idk if a fernco will work. the pipe is still pretty dirty, but it looks to be rusted enough to be very bumpy. idk if a fernco would seal that.
That's why I use the gasket sometimes. It can be a pain either way. Both methods have their merits
 
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