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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm currently in process of tiling the bathtub walls with 4x16 subway tile. I'm using a 10" wet tile saw bought from a previous paver project. It cuts great, but there's no space in the small bathroom to set it up. It's set up in the garage, which means having to run back and forth to make each cut while racing the drying thinset.

For the DIYer, would it be worth it to spend the $100 or $200 on a snap tile cutter that can sit next to me in the bathroom while tiling? Then the wet saw would be used on any miters or cuts that require a very nice finished line/edge.

Here's the snap tile cutter options at my local HD:
QEP 24" prof slimline
Rubi 26" in Star Max
Rubi 28" speed-n
 

· Naildriver
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having to run back and forth to make each cut
Such is the life of a tile layer :eek: Of course it's a benefit to have a "cutter" and have a "layer", when doing tile, but if you can't don't mix or spread more thinset than you can feasibly use in a given time.

I wouldn't wish a tile snapper on my worst enemy. No accuracy and 16' tiles will need to be snapped, eventually lengthwise, which may be more than your snapper will handle.
 

· JUSTA MEMBER
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Larry: 16' tile?:vs_OMG:

Get your exercise, and do the walking, you will waste more than you can use with a "SNAP" cutter.

Does this room have a shower area, setup in there.

But remember to flush the drain well, after each days work.

ED
 

· Naildriver
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I use a saw similar to this, only older. https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-10-in-Wet-Tile-Saw-with-Stand-R4092/206752503 Mine has the capability of recycling the water and holding the slag in the tray. The overspray, for the most part is held by the tray extending out front. Mine didn't cost $700 either :eek: It is too big to use in a confined area, so walking is best. Cuts are fast, and you get exercise at the same time.
 

· retired painter
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I only do diy type tile jobs. I have a cheap snap cutter and a cheaper wet saw. After getting the wet saw I pretty much stopped using the snap cutter. I'll set the saw up on the porch or deck. Often you can make multiple cuts and save a few trips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Looks like the votes are in and no point in spending money on the snap cutter, thanks all.

The snap cutter would probably work fine with my 4x16 ceramic subway tile cutting across the 4" edge, but that would pretty much be it before needing the wet saw to get good cuts.

For the record, I have the 10" Diamondback wet tile saw from harbor freight (link here). Picked it up for $340 when they had 20% Diamondback coupon out. Thing works great - it looks very "copycat'ish" of the DeWalt and Ridgid saws. The splash trays catch 99% of the spray. No real complaints, but looking back, I probably would've pony'd up the extra money on the Ridgid saw @ $720, that comes with the stand, has larger rip capacity, and slightly more powerful motor.
 

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I have a couple of snap tile cutters, 2 small wet tile saws and 1 large wet tile saw from Harbor Freight that is about 5 years old. And I use them all.

The snap cutters are great for small thin ceramic wall tiles. You just need to use a buffing stone to smooth the but edges.

The small wet saws are great for trim pieces, glass tile, intricate cuts, plunge cuts. The blade is on the bottom and sits in a pool of water.

The big wet saw is a 10 inch one that reminds me of a miter saw. But you push the tile into the blade. It can do miters and such. And can handle large format tiles up to 24". I have done larger by moving the tile off the back edge of the platform.

So, there is a place for all three. But, if I had to pick one to get rid off, it would be the snapper.

If I had to choose one to buy, I would get the Ridgid one mentioned above or the 7" Ridgid one. And, buy a really good blade!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The more I'm using the 10" Diamondback from HF, the more I realize why it's priced so much below the other similar saws from Ridgid and DeWalt. Overall, I can see it being a good saw, but I think I might've gotten a lemon, which being outside of 90 days, means I'm screwed warranty wise for HF.

Part of my frustration and looking into tile snappers was getting not square cuts and it always seemed like the table didn't slide smoothly across the full rail length. Well finally looked into it and it looks like the middle of the 3 wheels on the underside of the sliding tray is out of alignment. It sits slightly lower than the front and back wheels and a tad off center from them as well. So it cuts fine until the front wheel leaves the rail and allows tray to pop up and slightly to the right when the blade is about 2-3 inches from the fence. Of course with 4x16 tile, this is half the tile. Luckily most of the cuts are in corners where you can get away with it, but not sure what to do.




Also, the arbor nut appears to have partially spun onto the arbor threads.
 

· Naildriver
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The wheels are adjustable by using an allen wrench. Up/down, as well as in and out. It just takes patience. Hopefully you can get it adjusted before you finish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The wheels are adjustable by using an allen wrench. Up/down, as well as in and out. It just takes patience. Hopefully you can get it adjusted before you finish.
I see the adjustment screws on the bigger name saws in YouTube videos, but do not see anything on my HF Diamondback saw. It’s simply a bolt through a hole in the sliding table with a lock nut. Going to call their technical support tomorrow and see if I’m missing something.

Regardless, most of my the tile cuts are hidden at inside corners, etc so can finish up the bathroom as is and then try to fix it after. Just in case I mess it up bad haha
 

· JUSTA MEMBER
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See if that wheel is in a slotted hole, that when you loosen it, you can adjust it a bit.

On my HD tile saw, the rails are round, and the guide slides on the round tube.

It needs an oiling, and a cleaning of the tube railing, but maintenance is easy.


ED
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
See if that wheel is in a slotted hole, that when you loosen it, you can adjust it a bit.

On my HD tile saw, the rails are round, and the guide slides on the round tube.

It needs an oiling, and a cleaning of the tube railing, but maintenance is easy.


ED
I did swap the middle wheel + bolt with an end wheel + bolt, but the problem stayed with the middle wheel position meaning it is definitely in the tray hole alignment. I don't recall there being any slotted hole to adjust up and down, but will double check before going to drastic measures :)hammer::hammer::hammer::vs_laugh:). Will grab a picture in a bit, but there's a hole in the tray, with a bearing spacer pressed into it just big enough for the bolt to slip through.
 
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